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| view from Ben Abeba restaurant |
It
is apparently possible to visit by mule from Lalibela, a 10-12 hour round trip
if you feel inclined, or would be unable to manage the steps.
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| traditional coffee making at Ben Abeba |
This afternoon we will be visiting the five churches in the second,
South Eastern cluster, of Lalibela rock hewn churches. But first we have lunch
at the extraordinary Ben Abeba restaurant high up atop a hill on the outskirts
of Lalibela - a wonderful experience - excellent food, veggie friendly and
hosted by the Scottish lady who set this up a few years ago with an Ethiopian
business partner. It looks like a witch's hat as we approach, with a multi
layered decking construction, surrounded by very pretty gardens with lots of
different sitting out areas, and amazing views all around.
The restaurant put on a fabulous buffet spread for our group at lunchtime.
I usually confine my restaurant reviews to Trip Adviser but
this one is so special I think it deserves a mention here.
And so on to the churches.
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| Bet Giyorgis |
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| Bet Giyorgis in its trench |
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| with the priest inside Bet Giyorgis |
We start with the totally iconic monolithic Bet Giyorgis -
the church seen on all the publicity and tourist brochures for the area. It is
for this reason, I guess, that it has escaped being covered by one of the
rather hideous protective roof shelters which so obscure the views and photo
opportunities of the other churches - but which are necessary to protect these
extraordinary buildings from further decay.
This church has been excavated out
of the rock to a depth of 15 metres or so, in the shape of a cross, sitting in
its own sunken courtyard with vertical walls. Dramatic from the outside, less
so inside, but it has a great atmosphere if you are able to experience it
between tour groups.
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| inside Bet Mercurios |
From here we make our way to Bet Gebriel-Rafael, more like a
fortress than a church, which we approach over a wooden walkway. Indeed, with
Bet Mercurios, which we visit next, this may well have been first a fortified
palace, perhaps carved originally as the palace for King Lalibela.
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| Bet Emanuel |
The brave among us stoop to go through a pitch black tunnel
from Bet Gebriel-Rafael to Bet Mercurios but there is an alternative route! However
I would recommend braving the tunnel to gain the full atmosphere of the visit - the guides are well equipped with torches!Bet
Mercurios has some wonderful fifteenth century wall paintings, as well as some
iron shackles which indicate its possible early role as a prison. Saint
Mercurios was a third century Coptic saint, tortured and beheaded for his
Christian faith.
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| some of those steep and rocky steps |
Some very steep steps take us down to the Bet Emanuel, the
most elegant church of them all in Lalibela. Its appearance reminds us of the
Yemrehane Christos monastery style of layered wood and stone.
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| Bet Abba Libanos |
Finally we make our way to Bet Abba Libanos, built, legend
tells us, by King Lalibela's wife in one night, with the assistance of angels.
Sadly we are approaching closing time and our visit is rushed. The priest wants
to go home and soon we are also making our way back to our hotel, for a prayer
meeting and supper at the Lalibela Cultural Centre.
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| our shoes are well looked after and ready for us with willing hand as well |
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| pilgrims walk for miles, from all directions, to Na'akuto La'ab for the feast day service |
The next day is a special feast day at Na'akuto La'ab and we
will see this at first hand - this will be an extraordinary experience and one
certainly not to be missed - we will then go on to explore the mountain top church of Asheton Mariam
Amazing photos! What incredible experiences you have had!!
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