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| Esfahan sculpture |
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| the 40 column palace |
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| battle painting in main hall Chehel Sotun |
Imagine twenty 16m high richly decorated columns reflected
as in a mirror in the perfectly still waters below them, creating the illusion
of there being 40 not 20 columns. After a wonderful breakfast at the Abbasi - claimed
to be the best hotel in Iran and easy to see why - this is where we are off to
in our coach; the Chehel Sotun - or 40 columns - the most important
surviving Safavid (1501 - 1736) pavilion - and what a sight.
The painting and
gilding of the columns has long since faded, they are no longer hung with
curtains scented with rose water, but the overall beauty of the place is still
there. The huge battle paintings in the main hall and the exterior murals are
all worthy of some detailed study, some dramatic, some very beautiful. Here the
Safavid rulers received their foreign envoys and Shah Soleyman was invested in
1668.
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| beautiful Persian carpets |
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| a display of carpet styles through the ages |
No visit to Esfahan could possibly be complete without a
visit to a carpet factory – where we see some very beautiful carpets and learn
much about the different designs through the ages, about knotting and warps and
the dyes used – arrowroot, asparagus, saffron, pomegranate skins, onion skins,
cochineal, rose madder (Rubia tinctorum the madder plant).
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| the Khajou Bridge with octagonal kiosk |
The Zayandehrood River flows through Esfahan
- or rather it used to. Today it is a very wide and dried up river bed with a
row of colourful but forlorn redundant paddle boats lining the bank and locals
wondering across its vast expanse. Ten years ago locals swam in it, and it was the centre of social life in the
city on balmy summer evenings. Thanks to drought, claims of mismanagement
and increasing population demands it is now a sorry sight.
Long gone are the cafes but the gardens remain. Photos to be found online show
how very beautiful it must have all looked when the water was in full flow. It
seems doubtful if the water will ever return and the city's water supply could be
in crisis.
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| panoramic view of Khajou Bridge |
We visit two of the pedestrian bridges here – first the Khaju Bridge
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| Se-o-se Pol or 33 arch bridge |
The second bridge, the 33 arches bridge or
Se-o-se Pol – with its legendary link to the age of Jesus Christ when he died and
the idea that we will all be 33 in heaven, is 360m long, 14m wide, on two
levels and with high walls which were designed to protect the camel trains from
the potential buffeting of winds on the otherwise exposed trip across the
river.
We then hear that the Bosnian president is visiting the city
today – in our hotel apparently, so all the city sights have been closed
without warning and we were lucky to see Chehel Sotun before it closed to the
public. Many other tour groups have not been so lucky. So we have to rethink
the itinerary for today.
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| redundant paddle boats on dry river - relics of a happier time |
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| no hubble bubbles allowed in park |
Lunch is at the Azadi hotel – the inevitable soup starter is
said to be the very best the group had tasted – the flat bread was very nice
and fresh – with the usual salad plate – then trout, or chicken or meat kebabs
– how the Iranians love their kebabs! I thought the veggie option was very good,
made of split lentils and potato cubes in a spicy and tasty tomato sauce –
until I found three chicken lumps. Our guide complained and they brought a new
bowl – but I swear that all they had done was take another scoop out of the
same stew taking more care to exclude any chicken lumps! No dessert, tea or
coffee – probably because we are now off to the mountain above the city for the
view and a tea/coffee served from our coach surrounded by local picnickers.
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| locals enjoy a picnic above the city |
We
climb up above the car park to see splendid views of the city – and young men
smoke hubble bubbles under the trees on the shady terraces.
We cannot make our planned visit to the mosque today because
of the President of Bosnia visit – most of us opt to go back to the hotel – I
fancy some quiet time enjoying the total peace and beauty of the hotel grounds.
There is very bad traffic congestion because of the presidential visit– street
cleaners in high viz vests travel the city on bikes and motor bikes with besom
brooms cleaning the streets where they see the need. And this isn’t just for the
President – the streets are always kept clean here. This puts us to shame in England .
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| our picnic cakes |
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| my veggie supper at Abbasi was delicious |
Some of the group are dropped off at the bazaar and make
their own way back in time for supper. Back at the hotel I stroll across the
road to the shopping mall opposite which gets a guidebook mention – but I am disappointed
– it seems to be mostly bookshops. The Chehelsotoun Hall (or 40 column) restaurant
at the Abbasi Hotel is a wonderful setting with its paintings, gilding, mirrors
and plaster moulding – below the upper breakfast room.
This was my very best
veggie meal of the trip so far – with mixed vegetables, roasted, courgettes,
aubergine, peppers, onion, spinach, sweet corn, peas – all beautifully arranged
and delicious. A high quality crème caramel completes a satisfying meal.
