tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-50610142094786212662024-03-05T22:46:45.564+00:00Why Religion? The Wisdom of ToleranceEleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.comBlogger234125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-79068750697903959012017-01-04T06:30:00.000+00:002017-01-04T06:30:21.186+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - home from Tehran via Ayatollah Khomeini Mausoleum<div class="MsoNormal" style="vertical-align: baseline;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">at the Ayatollah Khomeini Mausoleum Tehran</td></tr>
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We are in <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>
and about to go home after a fantastic tour of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region> over the last 11 days - and
how much we have seen - described in the last several blogs.</div>
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Smog is bad across the
mountains this morning – by 9am they are practically obscured. We see on BBC
World News that on the recent Day of Cyrus there was a huge disturbance at
<st1:city w:st="on">Pasargadae</st1:city> around
his tomb - a nationalistic demonstration which we visited only the other day –
all tour groups had to be kept away as 1000s converged and local guards
couldn’t cope – but seemingly all went off without any obvious extreme
violence. How lucky we were able to visit when we did.</div>
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The smog today has affected
my chest badly and I cannot actually now wait to get out of the city. Before we
left the hotel I went up to the 13<sup><span style="font-size: 9.5pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">th</span></sup> floor for the advertised view from the Chinese
restaurant there but cannot get out of the lift lobby as the doors into the
restaurant with the views is locked. <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside the Ayatollah Khomeini Mausoleum Tehran</td></tr>
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The hotel advertises a
garden – this must be the public Laleh gardens just up the road to the left
from the entrance. I stroll up there and it is quite a large area with map at
entrance but I do not have the time to fully explore. Others said it was very
pleasant and relaxing among trees once one was away from the rather urbanised
entrance. <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Suitcases checked and loaded
on the bus - we are soon on our way to the airport via the Ayatollah Khomeini
Memorial. We pass by the American Embassy building – scene of the American
hostage crisis when the Embassy staff were held hostage for 444 days from
October 1979. It is now an exhibition hall and the Swiss embassy is responsible
for the American Embassy at the moment. The British Embassy only opened quite
recently – hence enabling our own visit. <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Driving through the streets
it is noticeable that the many small shops on which the Iranians seem to very
much depend are grouped by product – thus there are concentrations of
shops selling shoes, brass ware, musical instruments, bread, meat, hardware,
building materials, wheelbarrows and so on… <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ayatollah Khomeini Mausoleum</td></tr>
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At the Ayatollah Khomeini
Memorial we girls all enter to the left – where we have to take off shoes at the
edge of the carpet and put on chadors – it is very difficult to get the hang of
these – the ladies there smilingly help us put them on, quite amused probably
at our clumsiness. Cell phone cameras are allowed but not other cameras – it is
difficult anyway to take a photo and hold on to the chador at the same time!!
We meet the men inside, who have their own entrance to the right of the shrine –
they are shoeless but no special dress otherwise required for them – they are
amused by the ethereal group of white chador clad womenfolk drifting over
towards them across the carpets. <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the blood fountain at Behesht-e Zahra (cemetery)</td></tr>
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Once outside again we see
the blood fountain - red water symbolising the death of the many soldiers who were
killed in the Iran Iraq war as well as those killed in the 1978 demonstrations
against the Pahlavi regime - and the campsite of tents for the many pilgrims
who come here to pay their respects. <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Back on the bus we make our
presentations to the driver and Ali – who have looked after us so very well
throughout our trip. <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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So to the airport – a train
line is being built alongside the road to the airport from the city – this
should go some way to relieve the traffic pressure on this extremely busy
route. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1g1md4TAlAlG8gYecxODuU477rRm5tkK-V-M0xinKBHSZ_Mv7R250nJ6ak2GVyg6w0wibfnjoU64XhrOLjBWLMFRpDdafcopO8XCIVEWDEllITv3oHYAbmjjuFuW5cjjCiH_GwLt87vQ/s1600/photo+1+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1g1md4TAlAlG8gYecxODuU477rRm5tkK-V-M0xinKBHSZ_Mv7R250nJ6ak2GVyg6w0wibfnjoU64XhrOLjBWLMFRpDdafcopO8XCIVEWDEllITv3oHYAbmjjuFuW5cjjCiH_GwLt87vQ/s400/photo+1+%25282%2529.jpg" width="185" /></a></div>
All in all it was a
wonderful trip and I would love to go again to see so much more that we didn't
have enough time for in 11 days. </div>
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Before taking a break for a while from posting here - until
the next pilgrimage perhaps - I would like to thank Rachel and <a href="http://www.mccabe-travel.co.uk/choose-a-pilgrimage/ethiopia" target="_blank"><b>McCabe Pilgrimages</b></a> for such a well organised
trip, the <b>Revd. Canon Adrian Slade </b>who made such a good job of
leading and spiritually guiding us, our excellent local guide Ali with his
encyclopaedic knowledge of just about anything we wanted to know, and our
driver who transported us safely and cheerfully throughout the journey, always
there to meet us and look after us and give us another picnic! And thank you to
all my fellow pilgrims for being such good company. </div>
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So where shall I be going next? Any ideas welcome and I
would love your comments on any of my blogs to date. </div>
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I wish all my readers a very happy New Year. May there be
more peace for everyone in 2017.<br />
<br />
<br />
</div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-23679968497295211902017-01-01T06:30:00.000+00:002017-01-01T06:30:01.872+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - Tehran<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnlidEsbWyzGUZ4kmLrtifLW6o4wpn6g_bQ3e8YtxQ2C9z7FuzaRiXSxhXqP1Zq8EqN4BGHrMDNNdtHR0Eo_2SxLNUMQys2quuIG1L53SCtCdkiPEFl0hkDDeR7hAm8UYD6YzX7g9lZ6o/s1600/P1030213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnlidEsbWyzGUZ4kmLrtifLW6o4wpn6g_bQ3e8YtxQ2C9z7FuzaRiXSxhXqP1Zq8EqN4BGHrMDNNdtHR0Eo_2SxLNUMQys2quuIG1L53SCtCdkiPEFl0hkDDeR7hAm8UYD6YzX7g9lZ6o/s320/P1030213.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pottery Elamite period bull </td></tr>
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<br />
We are in <st1:city w:st="on"><a href="http://en.tehran.ir/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><b>Tehran</b></a></st1:city>
- the capital of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region>. As I write this it is covered by a
blanket of snow!! When we were there at the end of October it was hot. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWIT-TEadsWL2M_Ag_uavQ0u5clvFe-nB3zEG6t_prTL5jiUGJ5ENxJ4Y0-wZHr8Z_Y3ngsAILa3kdKFWSK_BvUlbFLUQ16rQLorVq1z0zTA9iD-UWRYbyQOenRgSV9NOx5UldaEfHR5c/s1600/P1030232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWIT-TEadsWL2M_Ag_uavQ0u5clvFe-nB3zEG6t_prTL5jiUGJ5ENxJ4Y0-wZHr8Z_Y3ngsAILa3kdKFWSK_BvUlbFLUQ16rQLorVq1z0zTA9iD-UWRYbyQOenRgSV9NOx5UldaEfHR5c/s320/P1030232.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuneiform script from Persepolis 5th century BC</td></tr>
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We have travelled through
<b>7000 years of civilization</b> during our amazing trip to <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region> over 12
days, and I could happily do this all over again. The country is beautiful, the
people so friendly and welcoming to the many tourists visiting. We met on our
own journey other tour parties from <st1:country-region w:st="on">Britain</st1:country-region>,
<st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region>, <st1:city w:st="on">Holland</st1:city>,
<st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Australia</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on">Canada</st1:country-region>
and <st1:country-region w:st="on">Russia</st1:country-region>,
as well as seeing some lone backpackers up in Abyaneh. And we could scarcely
scratch the surface of the treasures the country holds in the time available to
us. </div>
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We have seen a 5000 BC archaeological site where remains of humans, their
houses and their pottery have been unearthed. </div>
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We visited remnants of the Achaemenid
dynasty (550-330 BCE) at the extraordinary ruins of <st1:city w:st="on">Pasargadae</st1:city>
and <st1:place w:st="on">Persepolis</st1:place>,
and at the necropolis of Naqsh-e Rostam. </div>
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We visited the hauntingly beautiful
ancient Zoroastrian Sassanid (224 - 658 CE) <st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Abyaneh</st1:placename> high in the mountains
between Esfahan and Kashan and the <st1:placename w:st="on">Zoroastrian</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Towers</st1:placetype> of Silence at <st1:city w:st="on">Yazd</st1:city>,
and enjoyed the wealth of the Safavid court (1501-1736) reflected in the beauty
of <st1:place w:st="on">Esfahan</st1:place>. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvdD1ZCw6-dkKFuMVlOm2l889UD8-MeUj2nlvEnRuUw6fM_V8hB12CpIX1nnLEYWbMR5SEFWLXnspTbwJyLyB-gt8gkiXzk8VOrK057qanX4tITo_EmRBhqg7Inw8-muzmz0_Q_PpWxs/s1600/P1030237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvdD1ZCw6-dkKFuMVlOm2l889UD8-MeUj2nlvEnRuUw6fM_V8hB12CpIX1nnLEYWbMR5SEFWLXnspTbwJyLyB-gt8gkiXzk8VOrK057qanX4tITo_EmRBhqg7Inw8-muzmz0_Q_PpWxs/s320/P1030237.JPG" width="168" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bronze statue Parthian nobleman</td></tr>
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In <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city> we saw a charming example of Zand
(1750-1794) architecture in the 1767 citadel, Arg-e Karim Khan Zand, perhaps
the best surviving example of 18th century fortification in the country. We
visited Kashan, which dates from the 12th century, a town which survived the
Mongol (c 1220-1340) campaigns but is also home to splendid merchants' houses
from the Qajar Dynasty (1757-1924). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0q54ly0NDVYRmMirJMDiuliW5AVPGvQpRbta1RTZYISGbl7PeVQPvU_iTOF704wpKoG-ox2b0-U9DoduuPR26L9zpq9m7hJ3lHI-zhuLLEwVkBiallQPSFhuB6oXWh2nMhkBHJyc4WZ0/s1600/P1030254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0q54ly0NDVYRmMirJMDiuliW5AVPGvQpRbta1RTZYISGbl7PeVQPvU_iTOF704wpKoG-ox2b0-U9DoduuPR26L9zpq9m7hJ3lHI-zhuLLEwVkBiallQPSFhuB6oXWh2nMhkBHJyc4WZ0/s200/P1030254.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">National Museum Tehran</td></tr>
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We have been brought right up the present
day in <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>
where tomorrow we will visit the shrine to <a href="http://www.notablebiographies.com/Jo-Ki/Khomeini-Ayatollah.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Ayatollah Khomeini</a> founder and supreme leader of the Islamic Republic which marked the end of the Shah's
Pahlavi dynasty (1926-1979). He died in 1989.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRwmd5z3PHR7qUEXJC-uFegJe4BPKxe3ojpeFcFgbMsF1ubbDlIT5uxnOOEH-MOqT-6QhVQXnWSo0Go96tgyI9sHu3kjcb36LoRk4-W7DKQxYtFNsDMIeS5PSFE6AGMtUxscXlZTJLWvI/s1600/P1030255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRwmd5z3PHR7qUEXJC-uFegJe4BPKxe3ojpeFcFgbMsF1ubbDlIT5uxnOOEH-MOqT-6QhVQXnWSo0Go96tgyI9sHu3kjcb36LoRk4-W7DKQxYtFNsDMIeS5PSFE6AGMtUxscXlZTJLWvI/s320/P1030255.JPG" width="206" /></a>Much of this history, from
the hunter gatherers of the Lower Paleolithic period to the end of the
Sassanian period is brought together in the <b><a href="http://nationalmuseum.ichto.ir/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">National Museum of Iran</a></b> which was
our first stop this morning. Here there are
priceless exhibits and an excellent English brochure – make sure you pick this
up as you go in.</div>
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On our journey through the city
we pass the <st1:city w:st="on">Palestine</st1:city>
roundabout – a mural on the wall alongside shows Palestinians throwing stones
at the Israelis - a significant example of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graffiti_in_Tehran" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Iranian graffiti.</a> There is plenty of graffiti in the city, official and otherwise, and some very decorative.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEichCHs5HEGe-mNX863nnBeO4g-UZQ7v32VWt2cBR77R6n5evIB9BOcIks4NqUIjP-JOwwBheMyf2AmQnbFzBHCfBnCxHJjWxAmqvgQz-SwRKuf5AdPXfQEtpOf8uFeG0SDgA5jX3RmV6w/s1600/P1030292.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEichCHs5HEGe-mNX863nnBeO4g-UZQ7v32VWt2cBR77R6n5evIB9BOcIks4NqUIjP-JOwwBheMyf2AmQnbFzBHCfBnCxHJjWxAmqvgQz-SwRKuf5AdPXfQEtpOf8uFeG0SDgA5jX3RmV6w/s320/P1030292.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">marble throne for Shah by Esfahani craftsmen carved<br />in 1800s</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhuOtxcrbQ0VSGAHK_OAFu2GasyInAPGzkwBmDxfS0CZRXK1CZfA22M4RfnkC2_RV1WNh_q_FhYWMFzWIamvV7cUbOhr_7sbNq2290SmqDZ38O2xgFbkvWYUsg1QPC041nRE4J1hkP1zk/s1600/P1030290.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhuOtxcrbQ0VSGAHK_OAFu2GasyInAPGzkwBmDxfS0CZRXK1CZfA22M4RfnkC2_RV1WNh_q_FhYWMFzWIamvV7cUbOhr_7sbNq2290SmqDZ38O2xgFbkvWYUsg1QPC041nRE4J1hkP1zk/s320/P1030290.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">typical Qajar tiling at Golestan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The population of Tehran is 9 million, with 18 million total counting all the sprawling suburbs.
To the North is a mountain range to which the city dwellers love to escape
where possible. <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region>’s
highest peak is here at 5678 metres. <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>
itself is at 1200 metres altitude. There is a state run university here which
is highly regarded with much competition to be admitted. I see a lovely
pavement sculpture of a girl posting a letter. <span style="font-family: "Segoe UI"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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We have a great land train
experience – unscheduled I think – and fun! But the land train has a serious
purpose - locals use it all the time to travel up and down the long
pedestrianised shopping street. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrmjn3bhUUvRGFQwqQf8YlSvSTQd0Bn4cmYnwPJAaNRzv1Fc87-ZR1vGJL760oP8GpZIArGk0fXcBzsHJ0YFmfDM2m0HwPgU37weE9_RD5hRqf2GjJh6XtSz-Dig-pHp7UKQpo3x9J_pg/s1600/P1030294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrmjn3bhUUvRGFQwqQf8YlSvSTQd0Bn4cmYnwPJAaNRzv1Fc87-ZR1vGJL760oP8GpZIArGk0fXcBzsHJ0YFmfDM2m0HwPgU37weE9_RD5hRqf2GjJh6XtSz-Dig-pHp7UKQpo3x9J_pg/s200/P1030294.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golestan Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then we walk on to
the <b>Golestan museum</b> complex. This is amazing – but photos are forbidden within the complex. We have
also had to leave our bags in the bus as they are not allowed within the
museums.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucG0Yj_oG7SfycGx1paqh3hJWfE27yCi81nZrIj9Rbc5pU58T-0DFLB7WelKPpCgeHwrfZFwDrGQY3uxw9PaKi6eJcx5MvetFxWsx3fbMc5cFsnSdnGtMn7xh92GWtAWGwA5JzgTZvlE/s1600/P1030298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucG0Yj_oG7SfycGx1paqh3hJWfE27yCi81nZrIj9Rbc5pU58T-0DFLB7WelKPpCgeHwrfZFwDrGQY3uxw9PaKi6eJcx5MvetFxWsx3fbMc5cFsnSdnGtMn7xh92GWtAWGwA5JzgTZvlE/s200/P1030298.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golestan Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The <b><a href="http://golestanpalace.ir/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">GolestanPalace</a></b> (<st1:placetype w:st="on">Palace</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Flowers</st1:placename>) complex, with its ornate
rooms and marble throne, was the seat of power of the Qajar dynasty, became the
official residence of the Royal family and is the oldest historic monument in <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>. It would once
have been enclosed within the mud-thatched walls of the historic citadel in the
city. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwHKb9Ha40xMkmPyeHloZArinHFhsR3L0Y074WqHgth9ItjxHR8jDpIewdFNa1kbCq2VKvkX1oh6VixM7oDuBsB6UjGPpowi1KZ9yeieB7U7MHyYoodlBQXxYXqpO7SB7xzFbK11PI_Uk/s1600/P1030271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwHKb9Ha40xMkmPyeHloZArinHFhsR3L0Y074WqHgth9ItjxHR8jDpIewdFNa1kbCq2VKvkX1oh6VixM7oDuBsB6UjGPpowi1KZ9yeieB7U7MHyYoodlBQXxYXqpO7SB7xzFbK11PI_Uk/s200/P1030271.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">street scene Tehran</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuCKNwEhx-WLrnxiTPqh2Z7yVTH4zbJ4xwcExrXeE_A4CrwKHgvuxnAZ1cDbuVrOXW-hEJZBSpjDDj1_cvILVnT42ABG_zbAb6rkwckDMvzmsN6y8H_zJjnmsneiXUD1p7N-cHWEMTyQE/s1600/P1030259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuCKNwEhx-WLrnxiTPqh2Z7yVTH4zbJ4xwcExrXeE_A4CrwKHgvuxnAZ1cDbuVrOXW-hEJZBSpjDDj1_cvILVnT42ABG_zbAb6rkwckDMvzmsN6y8H_zJjnmsneiXUD1p7N-cHWEMTyQE/s320/P1030259.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pomegranates for sale Tehran bazaar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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It is now surrounded by the typical city buildings and roads of the 21st
century. Both Reza Khan and Mohammad Reza Pahlavi were crowned here.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The official website supplies some photos and much more
information, albeit with a less than perfect translation. </div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent;">Afterwards we have a long
walk to pick up the bus – an amazing feat for our driver to even find us in the
midst of total traffic madness! It’s now 1.30 and we have had a very long
morning without refreshment – too long actually and many of us are
wilting! </span></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Rqp6klAD1W9pzP4LxHfD4WPdOBID8lhl2VmcUdswYtCWu34xzc2tGv2NuPUXk9a_FQoOzPaQeuLyvGghQFwg6F9e6QCtxLHqWBoMJo8QNQMzuyQC5lKYhXI2FQlaL7EIfzby7LWqWQM/s1600/P1030272.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Rqp6klAD1W9pzP4LxHfD4WPdOBID8lhl2VmcUdswYtCWu34xzc2tGv2NuPUXk9a_FQoOzPaQeuLyvGghQFwg6F9e6QCtxLHqWBoMJo8QNQMzuyQC5lKYhXI2FQlaL7EIfzby7LWqWQM/s320/P1030272.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">land train Tehran</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So we are driven to <st1:street w:st="on">Masqh Square</st1:street>
complex where we find our restaurant – this is a top hotel in <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city> and the meal was
quite the best we had – 10/10! Superb buffet spread with veggies well catered
for – quality sweets and hot drinks – all splendid. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1gG5FQKalAdA3CpXIRAq2Ef8CluJLqMlWYu5iqMsCdctLZXFEP9xd4bULU_uWtDrVNmIK49qZBWugWs1HMqZ10cMZOv469B_2euXiW0qVGxmV8AZ2E39MdfZ9GgG7TdTOnj0vpeDTgQg/s1600/P1030343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1gG5FQKalAdA3CpXIRAq2Ef8CluJLqMlWYu5iqMsCdctLZXFEP9xd4bULU_uWtDrVNmIK49qZBWugWs1HMqZ10cMZOv469B_2euXiW0qVGxmV8AZ2E39MdfZ9GgG7TdTOnj0vpeDTgQg/s320/P1030343.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sculpture at Laleh Park Tehran</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="vertical-align: baseline;">
The <st1:place w:st="on"><b><st1:placename w:st="on">National</st1:placename> <st1:placename w:st="on">Jewellery</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Museum</st1:placetype></b></st1:place> holds many of the
Qajar monarchs’ jewels, safely stored in a bank vault, access to which involves
several security checks and some long waits. But it is all worth it. Again the
<a href="http://www.cbi.ir/Page/AboutTreasuryNationalJewels_fa.aspx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">official web page</a> supplies the photos </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="vertical-align: baseline;">
We have a very long wait here
to let the crowds subside and then we seem to go through three different
security processes – including xray machines, and
frisking, before we are allowed through. We then have an official guide to
take us around the circuit – our own guide Ali is not allowed to do this. It is
all very precisely organised. The jewels are priceless, some vulgar, some
exquisite. But it is an interesting experience. <span style="font-family: "Segoe UI"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_jbweguuajksPkJ0vdZfgfuh0glQFEi2LJmRgLuLfBXmIfQ77tjDu33dAPhvBW3uLA1nppwepxUIk22JeMr4OOiS6zYSH1e_k7Nrxq21MBHjWnNnb6Zg33ncSlwrrJNc4SBZXRboyVQ/s1600/P1030353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_jbweguuajksPkJ0vdZfgfuh0glQFEi2LJmRgLuLfBXmIfQ77tjDu33dAPhvBW3uLA1nppwepxUIk22JeMr4OOiS6zYSH1e_k7Nrxq21MBHjWnNnb6Zg33ncSlwrrJNc4SBZXRboyVQ/s320/P1030353.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Palestine Roundabout Tehran</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="vertical-align: baseline;">
I guess everyone visiting <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city> has to experience
the seemingly impossible task of crossing a road! It’s certainly not for the
faint hearted, or to be attempted alone. As a group ably guided by Ali we make
it in one piece! We pick up our bus on the other side of the carriageway, with
some relief. <span style="font-family: "Segoe UI"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHe-oc2jsJfuDpvzKlmTMUgJCN2zg5k13DmL3Oc8ZIq_9-Sn03EdjWoCnHnk7KTXvju9C_Bw1JghcwyNN-hYh4MUv8DDPojWgTtLAhP7MiA0-VzosX36Zlh6SIYfHWdBd-JQgC2gZ_pCQ/s1600/P1030276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHe-oc2jsJfuDpvzKlmTMUgJCN2zg5k13DmL3Oc8ZIq_9-Sn03EdjWoCnHnk7KTXvju9C_Bw1JghcwyNN-hYh4MUv8DDPojWgTtLAhP7MiA0-VzosX36Zlh6SIYfHWdBd-JQgC2gZ_pCQ/s320/P1030276.JPG" width="302" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">typical cabbage decorated roundabout</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="vertical-align: baseline;">
Shanderman Restaurant
for supper was superb – excellent veggie meal and meat eaters rated theirs
highly too – very good salad, buffet and soup with choice of meats and tea with
biscuit, coffee or ice cream to finish with a group set meal. 8/10. On our
return to the hotel we give <st1:city w:st="on">Adrian</st1:city> a book on <st1:city w:st="on">Persepolis</st1:city> with our thanks
for his excellent leadership throughout the tour. Sad that we have to go
home tomorrow. </div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-13428938226673850322016-12-29T06:30:00.000+00:002016-12-29T06:30:25.264+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - The Three Wise Men and Kashan<div class="MsoNormal">
`<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jQyPgrXzpendj-uRawiyr9siF22XYyajsjVSqNVmi_vbxzioyosPKl0siBEGFbEXXLXbu-gJDD3hHCGhBk-CsLj7X7cZ5fAcil6rafR6HQsXFH_GjeU09SV5ypt-ef4GZgfgmrkCgXU/s1600/P1020955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jQyPgrXzpendj-uRawiyr9siF22XYyajsjVSqNVmi_vbxzioyosPKl0siBEGFbEXXLXbu-gJDD3hHCGhBk-CsLj7X7cZ5fAcil6rafR6HQsXFH_GjeU09SV5ypt-ef4GZgfgmrkCgXU/s400/P1020955.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fin garden </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We are staying in <b>Kashan</b> for just one night, from where the <b>Three Wise Men </b>are traditionally
said to have set off for <st1:city w:st="on">Bethlehem to visit the infant Jesus</st1:city>. The town is also famous for its ceramics, and the manufacture of expensive silks and
carpets for the <st1:street w:st="on"><b>Safavid Court</b></st1:street>.
Tourists now come here to visit the rather fantastic merchant houses and the
impressive <a href="http://www.gardenvisit.com/gardens/bagh-e_fin" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Persian <b>Bagh-e Fin</b></a> or <st1:place w:st="on"><b><st1:placename w:st="on">Fin</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Gardens</st1:placetype></b></st1:place>.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The morning as usual dawns bright and sunny and soon we are
in the <st1:place w:st="on"><b><st1:placename w:st="on">Fin</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Gardens</st1:placetype></b></st1:place> – very close to our hotel – and
they are really very lovely. We have traditional tea and Iranian biscuits
served with style in a garden café there – peaceful and relaxing. The
coffee/tea houses here are in a similar style to those experienced on our 2013 visit to South
East Turkey at Dana with traditional "beds" to relax upon. There are
some very grand houses in Kashan with equally grand furniture shops selling
ornate gilded chairs, settees and stair rails and the young people at least are
very friendly and chatty and want selfies with us. By contrast an older woman
is seen washing clothes in the street side irrigation channel or jub and we
pass a motor cycle laden with pomegranates stacked high in lovely wool panniers,
the machine being driven by the father with his wife and child clinging on
precariously behind him. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBulBxYfVQ_jvVTEVZOVj7krxtXN5zjyb7z4SIw4TfnjX-v15hgfoekoc5aJH_vDajvqIsvjoS1ZdCWNHdCb4ekg23_q1UZN8O01Tm56yAVRivIjBCzmgDhYmtvZaU9grPgjXx1txZJwQ/s1600/P1020968.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBulBxYfVQ_jvVTEVZOVj7krxtXN5zjyb7z4SIw4TfnjX-v15hgfoekoc5aJH_vDajvqIsvjoS1ZdCWNHdCb4ekg23_q1UZN8O01Tm56yAVRivIjBCzmgDhYmtvZaU9grPgjXx1txZJwQ/s320/P1020968.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fin garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUo7PcAEsL3__LXtrCj0vx6dkpJRxujINCVhyWTF7_Ph_Pyh8_BnKw3M9iVbPMbs3YbD1AX1t9usa08JQzk7qmpTHF6MGZr1H5wq856pJi0mCgSs3Pskh8Zb38gZNsTjrevMWlZB8i40A/s1600/P1020956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUo7PcAEsL3__LXtrCj0vx6dkpJRxujINCVhyWTF7_Ph_Pyh8_BnKw3M9iVbPMbs3YbD1AX1t9usa08JQzk7qmpTHF6MGZr1H5wq856pJi0mCgSs3Pskh8Zb38gZNsTjrevMWlZB8i40A/s320/P1020956.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fin Garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2bVYXEq4HJCF1-SE4kI-KWlyERUa4QatRCwp7uL94z1Hh61O5DVyxIH4mnrLyWMj_Pqa35Un1aR3HOlC5taCT8lfyrs0Nw0-qoI4ze20o1QchDUVo5hd-C9YCqOAsGPEg-dXz7IegNxY/s1600/P1020963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2bVYXEq4HJCF1-SE4kI-KWlyERUa4QatRCwp7uL94z1Hh61O5DVyxIH4mnrLyWMj_Pqa35Un1aR3HOlC5taCT8lfyrs0Nw0-qoI4ze20o1QchDUVo5hd-C9YCqOAsGPEg-dXz7IegNxY/s320/P1020963.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea at Fin Garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The old merchant house we visit -Khaneh Tabatabiyeh - is
fantastic – I really enjoyed this. There are many other houses open to the
public – plus some interesting looking museums – all tantalising but we have to
move on; not before sampling the rose water drink in a nearby shop – I like it – some find it too sweet. We also
saw where two weeks ago thousands gathered in the town for an Imam Hossein
commemoration event presumably to mark the beginning of Moharram, and I guess
this is held annually. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4TgJT9C-GgTPEi5XRrqCzSSM0G19I6N-wPYYljlLqUEqfMmxrkS3fjssKsOA_VP56whDOrNvUVfZdEt035G1nQkiliEGKg3k6uByA3gNbJHaCJxy2v_L22MuLi3-h9n9inr1aIpkEl6I/s1600/P1030129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4TgJT9C-GgTPEi5XRrqCzSSM0G19I6N-wPYYljlLqUEqfMmxrkS3fjssKsOA_VP56whDOrNvUVfZdEt035G1nQkiliEGKg3k6uByA3gNbJHaCJxy2v_L22MuLi3-h9n9inr1aIpkEl6I/s320/P1030129.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Tappeh Sialkh 5000 BCE</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We have lunch at the same restaurant as last night – it is
very full today but still copes well and the food is just as good. A few of us
walk up the road to see from the outside the archaeological site <b>Tappeh Sialkh</b>,
dating back to the 5th Millennium BCE, perhaps earlier, with evidence of different
very early human settlements and the use of an early potter's wheel. Stained
red human remains and the vestiges of their stone, mud and wood dwellings have
been found here and outlines of the settlement can still be seen. Some pottery from
the site is in the <b>National Museum Tehran</b> which we shall see tomorrow. Sadly we
had no time to actually buy tickets to enter the site and view it properly. I
think McCabe should consider including this on any future trip. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoi0Fq42mFYFvXfQor9g7lvJu0SsR4BP26_vj2rSDHI3uitHDhdhqc0kpcehdmY0jcUmzBfG2gWa_ZCnyXVcRbqKo0R0iIKa6-uiD5dPbyGuBe7FDfS5vqSvEK8Z92g3xerCMJxwvpk6k/s1600/P1030021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoi0Fq42mFYFvXfQor9g7lvJu0SsR4BP26_vj2rSDHI3uitHDhdhqc0kpcehdmY0jcUmzBfG2gWa_ZCnyXVcRbqKo0R0iIKa6-uiD5dPbyGuBe7FDfS5vqSvEK8Z92g3xerCMJxwvpk6k/s640/P1030021.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Khaneh Tabatabiyeh</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
We are now on the final leg of our journey on the road to <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>. It is 26 degrees.
</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha78AS56B7DvMEVeWyX1cXBKE2L3yYDAzaMWTkZXp0OWcsLyC8z0e056dF7AjNx3l-8ivVl9R07y_-vsRI2HqugmDQRqHqWccDPYHeVjlCu-tlQ69ux7Jlbtaqs-dvIbS7sWt10w-Qvps/s1600/P1030022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha78AS56B7DvMEVeWyX1cXBKE2L3yYDAzaMWTkZXp0OWcsLyC8z0e056dF7AjNx3l-8ivVl9R07y_-vsRI2HqugmDQRqHqWccDPYHeVjlCu-tlQ69ux7Jlbtaqs-dvIbS7sWt10w-Qvps/s320/P1030022.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Khaneh Tabatabiyeh two doorknockers<br />for men, and women/children!</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The land is agricultural outside <b>Kashan</b>, and it is mostly
rose fields, but there are also many pomegranate vendors in the lay bys as we
leave the town. The landscape is flat, and it soon becomes quite arid as far as
we can see to the east, with mountains to the west. There are golden domed
mosques in a local village, and many more <b>qanats</b> are visible on the plain in
the distant, evidence of the ancient water irrigation system below. I see the
first sign of poly tunnel cultivation and some very curious rock formations.
The atmosphere is getting murkier – with smog perhaps? It seems quite cloudy
and we have clearly left behind the beautiful deep blue skies of the south. <a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="_GoBack"></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9F2vFpi13kVRlOj5VqtDCQ7MIdsVNw-WmtVh8BIJlnKdYZZmESJuvvLvTbcHqLgpxhEE4Hw72xeX3LZLOifFTwuxZsVsPz5RifPGGkjokefsTjFZ6h-tfXbZKqhdeAJwUTm7Uuih8aI/s1600/P1030027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9F2vFpi13kVRlOj5VqtDCQ7MIdsVNw-WmtVh8BIJlnKdYZZmESJuvvLvTbcHqLgpxhEE4Hw72xeX3LZLOifFTwuxZsVsPz5RifPGGkjokefsTjFZ6h-tfXbZKqhdeAJwUTm7Uuih8aI/s320/P1030027.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Khaneh Tabatabiyeh</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This is the least interesting leg of our drive and the
motorway is not the smoothest of surfaces. We pass through an area of low
mountains on each side but are soon back on the plain. Qom is 35 km away – there
are large flocks of goats being herded at the side of the road, with much
arable farming activity as well, more pomegranate bushes, some very
sophisticated irrigation channels, sweet corn fields, old tractors and other
fairly basic and old farm implements along with stacked straw bales seen in
farm compounds – also I fear much evidence of factory farming. There is a herd
of camels at the side of the motorway – I just manage to catch a fleeting
photo!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_2IR6SMebXElOPeWRx27vDPW_fHMygC7h-5z_SDpj3q70-pfaRVr3CUxfSefTfJerSIbXH-4Bx1MGyRE9g_hlLDnnHBLVWGbGICtMHEig9hzGcTagip_pbiOYaWDHf0YSXkLJAi4aMg/s1600/P1030076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_2IR6SMebXElOPeWRx27vDPW_fHMygC7h-5z_SDpj3q70-pfaRVr3CUxfSefTfJerSIbXH-4Bx1MGyRE9g_hlLDnnHBLVWGbGICtMHEig9hzGcTagip_pbiOYaWDHf0YSXkLJAi4aMg/s320/P1030076.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: start;">five door room in <span style="font-size: small;"><b>Khaneh Tabatabiyeh</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The traffic now is the
busiest we have seen it. <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Qom</b></st1:city>
looks huge and the atmosphere murky. It is the second most sacred place in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region> after <st1:place w:st="on">Mashhad</st1:place>.
Pilgrims and tourists alike flock here to see the <b>shrine of <st1:place w:st="on">Fatima</st1:place></b>
sister of the eighth imam, Imam Reza, who died here in 816CE. The golden dome
and twin minarets are said to dominate the skyline but I do not see them from
the coach and we are passing by straight on to <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>. </div>
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Soon we stop at a huge
shopping mall for a comfort break – Adidas outlet store is prominent as we
drive into the car park – a family have settled down in a marked parking bay
for their picnic – the usual rug on the ground – shoes on its perimeter – food
spread out! Imagine that in the <st1:country-region w:st="on">UK</st1:country-region>
at Ikea! There is a sparkling 1950s Chevrolet in the entrance foyer attracting
a great deal of interest. </div>
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The mall is very grand –
with plenty of shops and quite the poshest loos on the whole trip – spotless
and we feel even our footprints are being dusted away behind us! We have a
picnic set up by the coach before moving on – the driver cutting up a huge water
melon to share amongst us. It’s still 26 degrees outside - very
pleasantly warm but murky. The air now is noticeably polluted and not nice
at all. <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidKt3iE5YMNKSoD3OuEkQZVZgOuw07kLDxqku-xTG_-MAowYI8hRIaHAumq_w441L38mFHcoGiK2LBPiLvHn0ShGdwRee14tWALQFYG7MGxgQkqRV1jxL0Pho8ue_O9InFKK4LdLXy6lI/s1600/P1030099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidKt3iE5YMNKSoD3OuEkQZVZgOuw07kLDxqku-xTG_-MAowYI8hRIaHAumq_w441L38mFHcoGiK2LBPiLvHn0ShGdwRee14tWALQFYG7MGxgQkqRV1jxL0Pho8ue_O9InFKK4LdLXy6lI/s320/P1030099.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pottery Kashan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7R6Ty6F0dx91b59-spNNzCt302EKSxsQSzzAdXIlRLTdR-FIsU9vGlSLbseDBh4lFLZrpJ8aBtO7LHHrVVJn6DqFciqKU9AoHjZ6RQeBeYCpFl83IK82mNfFPxQVg7C8l27RzYwuz1E/s1600/P1030106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7R6Ty6F0dx91b59-spNNzCt302EKSxsQSzzAdXIlRLTdR-FIsU9vGlSLbseDBh4lFLZrpJ8aBtO7LHHrVVJn6DqFciqKU9AoHjZ6RQeBeYCpFl83IK82mNfFPxQVg7C8l27RzYwuz1E/s320/P1030106.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">rose water still Kashan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcT6AcTxOpRqbfKfXdRbn12l099IiFZL2ge03blJB5Q7JP1usmSdPphUktO3sZxNxz7GqsbA8h1DLlFwAirdRAGfj4Ptd1fr_VbibY9nnQHncFim7DNJhchAvgJ57utyBFRE9Zqu0ccrI/s1600/P1030116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcT6AcTxOpRqbfKfXdRbn12l099IiFZL2ge03blJB5Q7JP1usmSdPphUktO3sZxNxz7GqsbA8h1DLlFwAirdRAGfj4Ptd1fr_VbibY9nnQHncFim7DNJhchAvgJ57utyBFRE9Zqu0ccrI/s320/P1030116.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">typical smart villa in Kashan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
All the tour buses are
equipped with a luggage hold, a hold where the driver can sleep as necessary, a
hold for the picnic kit, including a gas stove – one driver was seen to light
this stove within the hold itself (!). <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_be8rhwxkwxvWjSdORX5O3KBBDxbMhtzN0Yu8vACF3JPY9WToud2lNS6U1I7WX9wecjr9FS4zrbVzMPsBzO0ELraoOv8u-Bsey41rGQP8uAruTdB03bRXb9nLxWfzqVPokVecizOQ_vg/s1600/P1030154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_be8rhwxkwxvWjSdORX5O3KBBDxbMhtzN0Yu8vACF3JPY9WToud2lNS6U1I7WX9wecjr9FS4zrbVzMPsBzO0ELraoOv8u-Bsey41rGQP8uAruTdB03bRXb9nLxWfzqVPokVecizOQ_vg/s320/P1030154.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camels!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We are on the last leg of
the journey to <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>.
The view is of desert all around us – with the huge salt lake visible to the east.
I find the pollution tough on my chest, just recovering as I am from a very bad
cold and cough. I feel the same gloom approaching <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>
as I felt on our way into <st1:city w:st="on">Athens</st1:city>
last year. I am not comfortable in large cities – although found <st1:city w:st="on">Athens</st1:city> surprisingly
agreeable. I hope the same applies for <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>. <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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The motorway here has many
break down trucks along the way, waiting for their summonses to help cars in
need. Our first sign of the city is the airport and the traffic now is pretty
bad – it takes quite a while to get through it to our hotel. </div>
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We were going to see the Ayatollah
Khomeini monument tonight – but we are running late and it will be very busy
being Friday. So we pass it by and we will see it on the way to the airport on
Sunday instead. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfybTxw0MT8sgfCNJiIkbMasvV1_b_b9jfHoupHDRcBW0m5-lo0VrObQyZG93doArRixFuvPveYwaaTx5c_Ki9TbvtnlDtlTITggN19DuA-h4sJmXWXsop_P2aTcVfnN1wwCm0S7v4CMY/s1600/P1030169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfybTxw0MT8sgfCNJiIkbMasvV1_b_b9jfHoupHDRcBW0m5-lo0VrObQyZG93doArRixFuvPveYwaaTx5c_Ki9TbvtnlDtlTITggN19DuA-h4sJmXWXsop_P2aTcVfnN1wwCm0S7v4CMY/s320/P1030169.JPG" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our water melon picnic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We eat in the hotel in Tehran- the
meal is poor for us all, the usual salads, kebabs, (the meat is reconstituted)
and some very uninspiring vegetables and chips for me. The crème caramel is the
highlight - the Iranian creme caramel rarely disappoints my sweet tooth! <span style="font-family: "segoe ui"; font-size: 4.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKtfaKvvseP0DXhMmKRtSb6i5s7u07G-i9R2FdMxENaVm_fvUdL8VXfyYkmXptkApHoKL3JTCB4jpy1WBKBK-cZJZq0mV4u_riN4L6w5gzZ_JtAs-r9eDVJqv_PvaoXdXMRMIvxjsR8YM/s1600/P1030164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKtfaKvvseP0DXhMmKRtSb6i5s7u07G-i9R2FdMxENaVm_fvUdL8VXfyYkmXptkApHoKL3JTCB4jpy1WBKBK-cZJZq0mV4u_riN4L6w5gzZ_JtAs-r9eDVJqv_PvaoXdXMRMIvxjsR8YM/s320/P1030164.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1950s Chevrolet at Tehran shopping mall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The hotel fortunately has
good triple glazing as I cannot hear the dreadful traffic from the street
far below. Opening the window, I am hit in equal measure by the smell and the
noise. I shut it again quickly. The room is large, clean comfortable and
chintzy with the usual <st1:city w:st="on">Mecca</st1:city>
sign in the corner of the ceiling. Everything under the sun is supplied in the
basket of goodies in the bathroom – except shower gel which I need. No tea and
coffee facilities in the room - surprising perhaps for a hotel of this calibre
but there is 24 hour coffee available in the foyer apparently but I didn’t test
this. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKVVMOqqRRxkdBOaJayT6P-jRwHv_60dL7u0ZxBHtO61qT4dVTvFjJAug5HkktYUmqCSTtNG2H2JOo8a9XXdg9H0lC6NhuENDj5KxEcUsP7tN49sDQFcof2HvCN7tHTnHKgd2P2rpIYlA/s1600/P1030139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKVVMOqqRRxkdBOaJayT6P-jRwHv_60dL7u0ZxBHtO61qT4dVTvFjJAug5HkktYUmqCSTtNG2H2JOo8a9XXdg9H0lC6NhuENDj5KxEcUsP7tN49sDQFcof2HvCN7tHTnHKgd2P2rpIYlA/s320/P1030139.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">curious rock formation road to Tehran</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tomorrow we have a full day
in <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city> -
with even more treasures to see before we have to think about travelling home.</div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-90692653580957523242016-12-26T06:30:00.000+00:002016-12-26T06:30:22.576+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - the most beautiful mosque in the world - and more<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ73_OvUzU_kEhodp-LpQ-tIwT2MaR__BqNIUh_zlaI2shPIflAZWD_E99g8EZ2Yw-ZXcv7ovYZ_BC0YMxPqJE2dGCZ84AV9-0OkcqZRwTOF6Mtd_pei00tmCWMWp1zK_8hV-qk81bXgU/s1600/P1020763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ73_OvUzU_kEhodp-LpQ-tIwT2MaR__BqNIUh_zlaI2shPIflAZWD_E99g8EZ2Yw-ZXcv7ovYZ_BC0YMxPqJE2dGCZ84AV9-0OkcqZRwTOF6Mtd_pei00tmCWMWp1zK_8hV-qk81bXgU/s320/P1020763.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">barley twist cabling of pillars</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWHSwMoSCDP2oKZQePBtlX3dwUizCMIGUbnack9Aom9wEvEnsv-3ha9IGompbYFp0BXw6z6407-ObEfCCN65d1GbZNDJ0xVe_pcn7x7CLqyK9hG6m1BZHiS1DmXxWHtRn2eRnr3fZ9gmE/s1600/P1020764.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWHSwMoSCDP2oKZQePBtlX3dwUizCMIGUbnack9Aom9wEvEnsv-3ha9IGompbYFp0BXw6z6407-ObEfCCN65d1GbZNDJ0xVe_pcn7x7CLqyK9hG6m1BZHiS1DmXxWHtRn2eRnr3fZ9gmE/s200/P1020764.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">beautiful ceramic tile work</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Visiting the most beautiful mosque in the world is a good
way to start the day. We are at the <b>Skeikh Lotfollah Mosque</b> in <b>Esfahan Iran</b> – a mosque more beautiful
than the Esfahan Unesco listed <b>Masjed-e Jame</b> which we didn't visit but
which is said to be an architectural treasure.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzmEVlIwO1E8yqGTWjgPf2qjs5Qz0uueKymV5KjDa99xB_DzKuK1WbhaAGVXCez2eLklmjyIiTFzPmWMmXzRCcHP0U5tEpzRNtRziuTdxqyENYO2G_2GG-xiSx8_VISYS6Qvdl0ChH8Q/s1600/P1020777.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzmEVlIwO1E8yqGTWjgPf2qjs5Qz0uueKymV5KjDa99xB_DzKuK1WbhaAGVXCez2eLklmjyIiTFzPmWMmXzRCcHP0U5tEpzRNtRziuTdxqyENYO2G_2GG-xiSx8_VISYS6Qvdl0ChH8Q/s320/P1020777.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the night prayer hall downstairs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The<b> Skeikh Lotfollah Mosque</b> was probably built for the women
of the royal harem and the early seventeenth decorations really are very lovely
- the amazing ceramic tile work exhibits whirling dervishes, Koran script,
peacocks (look for the one up in the centre of the dome in the prayer hall. We
learn that the turquoise and green colours symbolize paradise, (green also supposedly
Mohammed's favourite colour) as does gold. Yellow is a symbol of the sunflower,
of light and sun. Brown stands for purity and peace and black is for
modesty as well as for mourning.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEpKJI1-KzCT0C0Agew-2qqm_l50qOOipfm5Vn-StcrFzfJT09ZsHLkCnZv9VnGIiEDuQsExnPH_Fb_pGteI8BFje6Ujq0YHlvm4RIvLEkXO8ulQP06I9bisCNxMIu3eR1IiNIqGUfRUg/s1600/P1020767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEpKJI1-KzCT0C0Agew-2qqm_l50qOOipfm5Vn-StcrFzfJT09ZsHLkCnZv9VnGIiEDuQsExnPH_Fb_pGteI8BFje6Ujq0YHlvm4RIvLEkXO8ulQP06I9bisCNxMIu3eR1IiNIqGUfRUg/s320/P1020767.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the dome <b style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Skeikh Lotfollah Mosque</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We go downstairs to the prayer hall where night prayers were
said – it has a low ceiling for heat economy – it may be hot now but nights in
the winter can be very cold. Ali explains that a brown mark visible on a man’s
forehead would be the stain from his clay tablet on which he would push his
forehead against the floor to pray more fervently.</div>
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Someone in our group leaves their I Pad in the public
toilets – we find it handed in at the police station. While the group wait for
the guide to sort all this out our leader tells us about the background and
good reasons for the different resurrection narratives in the Gospels. See for
example <a href="http://www.jesus.org/death-and-resurrection/resurrection/do-the-resurrection-accounts-in-the-four-gospels-contradict-each-other.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="https://www.biblegateway.com/blog/2012/03/questions-about-easter-do-the-resurrection-accounts-in-the-four-gospels-contradict-each-other/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a> for a few ideas.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6S4vymgMa3e6tkzWocb_Fh7wd83gYobtD0hxNVwnrONa53UDi1gO6hwZdigxvH5myUzF4GONDNkrxzCnowUFB-g6_4IgpeXXkIaftHgmGfGLF7hGJwJ8dyyqNVA9rQS5kJ91zOy68oYg/s1600/P1020758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6S4vymgMa3e6tkzWocb_Fh7wd83gYobtD0hxNVwnrONa53UDi1gO6hwZdigxvH5myUzF4GONDNkrxzCnowUFB-g6_4IgpeXXkIaftHgmGfGLF7hGJwJ8dyyqNVA9rQS5kJ91zOy68oYg/s320/P1020758.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">peacock in centre of dome above main hall<br /><b style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Skeikh Lotfollah Mosque</b><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;"> </span><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We are soon on the road for <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Tehran</b></st1:place></div>
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We pass a huge blow up Father Christmas outside a small shop
leaving <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan</b></st1:place> – bright red, white beard,
huge belly – the lot. Strange sight in this country! There is beautiful brass
work decorating the underpass going out of the city – not the first time I have
seen such pleasing aesthetics in otherwise soulless concrete road structures. This
beats graffiti anytime. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpOwpGXtUe6hcwxGOfOAvuxlrZkFG3vyhB1pwjRcv-SsbvzT4P4aLyR48uqWTXuk_cqkquJEJpVchGbGazJT5CHumQdY1Tj29zfm2Yw4FZ0dHY3Squ8CBUTtQQKV3_WEmoG8ZpQ_38Nz0/s1600/P1020807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpOwpGXtUe6hcwxGOfOAvuxlrZkFG3vyhB1pwjRcv-SsbvzT4P4aLyR48uqWTXuk_cqkquJEJpVchGbGazJT5CHumQdY1Tj29zfm2Yw4FZ0dHY3Squ8CBUTtQQKV3_WEmoG8ZpQ_38Nz0/s320/P1020807.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuIgIlaEJRrfPZYfed1pZYb6l26MfpgJtgRsUfrlTgza_Do5QEY8YAE6imqfzUvS7nM86Zbj64xUia8JiOxPzycbXB-y1ubc8MgFH2L9X0SPKXQa7hagnNg3XWKxLCupyyB9hjrsMB4hI/s1600/P1020813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuIgIlaEJRrfPZYfed1pZYb6l26MfpgJtgRsUfrlTgza_Do5QEY8YAE6imqfzUvS7nM86Zbj64xUia8JiOxPzycbXB-y1ubc8MgFH2L9X0SPKXQa7hagnNg3XWKxLCupyyB9hjrsMB4hI/s200/P1020813.JPG" width="200" /></a>We also pass a huge sports/football stadium. <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan</b></st1:place> has two football teams in the first league and
big team games are played here. If only the human race could understand that
they are linked by a common spirituality as well as a common game!</div>
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On the long coach journey Ali tells us about the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persian_wedding" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Iranianmarriage laws</a> and traditions dating back to the <b>Sassanid </b>period (224-658CE) and <b>Zoroastrian</b> tradition. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnLniQEdL8uvxRN3iSGTzNHQaDDY1_K847NPVW4X63MXQhdPa_-gvgvkC3sQfyeMlTN4aS0BydNi5qOPwIgm58TWRMfYUyZ0WCHDPiFyjVMhjkqCjkQvOcX-gog0-2De3Rupwd5mTBsK8/s1600/P1020821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnLniQEdL8uvxRN3iSGTzNHQaDDY1_K847NPVW4X63MXQhdPa_-gvgvkC3sQfyeMlTN4aS0BydNi5qOPwIgm58TWRMfYUyZ0WCHDPiFyjVMhjkqCjkQvOcX-gog0-2De3Rupwd5mTBsK8/s320/P1020821.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bartering for pomegranates</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
It is hot outside, the distant mountain range barely
discernible across the vast deserts through a haze of sand and dust and heat.
There is a lovely little picnic hut in the middle of nowhere just set back from
the road with splendid mountain views. Then we pass a very old ruined
caravanserai; a flock of wild goats; a road sign for snow chains – evidence of
cold winters here. </div>
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We are passing through lovely mountain scenery now, the rock
colours indicating rich mineral deposits. The rock striations are geologically
fascinating. Large birds of prey circle overhead. We pass small village gardens
sheltered from the fiercest heat by large vine-covered arbours. Very pretty
clumps of vegetation with scarlet flowers adorn the verges.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAdtiXsyXm8vgMTFzk69YvYfMio07HhWZMLCmK68Ee5kEfYuIn5tocltUbNuI8X6crdQpt4SjDPaHPNL6agYmrabHWpPxsDWiat6q6pQNvbYABbQblg6zj0mY02l1tYafWLlrsBsgE3y0/s1600/P1020825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAdtiXsyXm8vgMTFzk69YvYfMio07HhWZMLCmK68Ee5kEfYuIn5tocltUbNuI8X6crdQpt4SjDPaHPNL6agYmrabHWpPxsDWiat6q6pQNvbYABbQblg6zj0mY02l1tYafWLlrsBsgE3y0/s320/P1020825.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ancient Sasannid ruins</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There are deep
concrete irrigation channels. We pass lorries carrying huge marble blocks from
the quarries we have passed. One block is load enough for most lorries. They
must be very heavy.<br />
We pass the nuclear facilities that have caused the
sanction and diplomatic problems recently.<br />
And at a large pomegranate orchard Ali
and the driver barter water, cakes, a melon and water melon for a crate of
fresh pomegranates. </div>
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We see some very ancient ruins from the <b>Sasannid </b>period (224-658
BC). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7hy5Jb0LzLNJiZ90aMyxNm6Fno1edekfjYgRk-_i1g-0nMg2yRyjtMYppH33FBJY9R3uc7u9LmkOIaAENsyFRRQEh178nZ9GrE6b-ygWhMGXLnYyRtErZUJvmGO4tRLWuL56QMcyKrK8/s1600/P1020842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7hy5Jb0LzLNJiZ90aMyxNm6Fno1edekfjYgRk-_i1g-0nMg2yRyjtMYppH33FBJY9R3uc7u9LmkOIaAENsyFRRQEh178nZ9GrE6b-ygWhMGXLnYyRtErZUJvmGO4tRLWuL56QMcyKrK8/s320/P1020842.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a cuppa Abyaneh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
And soon we turn off towards <b>Abyaneh</b>, an ancient Zoroastrian
village – up a twisting narrow road into the mountains to 2500 m. It’s a very
pretty wooded valley we follow upwards- ash, maple, plane and much more
displaying autumn colours. Ali tells us this is very beautiful also in the
spring. And there are fabulous rock formations also. We pass ruined
smallholdings, a big marble quarry, a couple of cemeteries reminding of the
many war martyrs buried here.</div>
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We come to a pay toll to enter the village area. There are
many curious entrances into the hillside – these are for the livestock we are
told. There is also a large picnic area where many Iranian families are
picnicking. So we arrive at the <b>Abyaneh Hotel</b> for lunch, a reasonable buffet
spread. I bought a tea afterwards which was beautifully served on a tray with curious
sugar sticks to dip in for sweetening to taste. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6dW3McDwEaA1hC6h0ivVbmdNxXGBb5JF6IOEu-8NCg-i57iDW56Lu35WWK1Zmuvsq3R3J8r7pNPcRhRrXZmAhmavWxT_naQQJ1UzuHxxYp76xjD1DKHRbm7FeyjAv3rCEpjMFu6KIPa8/s1600/P1020866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6dW3McDwEaA1hC6h0ivVbmdNxXGBb5JF6IOEu-8NCg-i57iDW56Lu35WWK1Zmuvsq3R3J8r7pNPcRhRrXZmAhmavWxT_naQQJ1UzuHxxYp76xjD1DKHRbm7FeyjAv3rCEpjMFu6KIPa8/s320/P1020866.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">shop entrance Abyaneh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We tour this charming village. The locals are all in
traditional <b>Sasannid</b> costumes but good manners and their request via Ali forbid
us taking their direct photos. I really cannot blame them and often think we
are so obsessed with photos these days we forget our own values – how would we
like it if people turned up outside our gardens at home and started taking our
photos and snaps of our plots, houses, ourselves; just because we look
different from their own norm? Nonetheless people do like to know how other
cultures live and work and play. We hear that an important reason for the photo
ban is that many of the young people from the village now have good jobs in
town and do not want their parents’ pictures emblazoned across social
media. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAjr5o-vvAdx-KEPKzO5JLpkpgnk-Cm5ULghMVh8oRriAvoFPoBot5C1ajJ9PDeCKGv-ZI6P6o2u4CRXo5V98QTiOwfAZqGcNb4h4ldfIBLeLXYh15a71J0_itcVoLusoSaOT-3nbE_5c/s1600/P1030104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAjr5o-vvAdx-KEPKzO5JLpkpgnk-Cm5ULghMVh8oRriAvoFPoBot5C1ajJ9PDeCKGv-ZI6P6o2u4CRXo5V98QTiOwfAZqGcNb4h4ldfIBLeLXYh15a71J0_itcVoLusoSaOT-3nbE_5c/s320/P1030104.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a sheet of Lavashak</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We try the <b>lavashak</b> or fruit leather – this one is is apricot
but any fruit can be used it seems. It is a popular sweet snack - a sort of flat
sweet dried fruit sheet – 30104 photo in kashan Kids seem to love - we see many
over the next few days eating it. There are You Tube videos telling you how to
make it if you really want to try it!</div>
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We all buy little souvenirs from the many local vendors –
some are on the streets – some have their own small shops. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9N4rAcezAw_evdCSh8i2qJGPdWJDHiajsR1nFXbUA3vcZ2HL6DgKOMWofLBDJW4lKMba_O8o4abyrwcd78Dh0dUBLK-QT1ffNay3roGviMG3vsKoh7Og709ENWqXoALSVPnRNcg377Bo/s1600/P1020873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9N4rAcezAw_evdCSh8i2qJGPdWJDHiajsR1nFXbUA3vcZ2HL6DgKOMWofLBDJW4lKMba_O8o4abyrwcd78Dh0dUBLK-QT1ffNay3roGviMG3vsKoh7Og709ENWqXoALSVPnRNcg377Bo/s320/P1020873.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ancient balconied house Abyaneh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We have a picnic by the coach before setting off again.
Going back down the valley I see some beehives, and some irrigation channels rather
like the Madeiran levadas which provide such wonderful walking. Water gushes
down the valley as the vegetation gets ever greener. Soon we are back on the
main road towards <b>Kashan</b> – just 55 km of barren desert to go. </div>
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We have a one night stay in <b>Kashan</b> at the Negarestan Hotel. It’s
OK –clean enough and breakfast is quite a good spread in a pleasant open lounge
off the large main reception area – which is itself spacious and relaxed. But I
think the staff seem disinterested.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0-v5GJGsISMbD50ui77fjFJXXbn9eybwLzl0WiWUoXVdK77EmM0QAFoE-r80Nx3EnAOoZ0LA87gTxL5Z0fyNQthdICGRMwNLs5-063FMeYFWSqc6y1dyKevgoQgFbEk3fz76slGOg88/s1600/P1020890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0-v5GJGsISMbD50ui77fjFJXXbn9eybwLzl0WiWUoXVdK77EmM0QAFoE-r80Nx3EnAOoZ0LA87gTxL5Z0fyNQthdICGRMwNLs5-063FMeYFWSqc6y1dyKevgoQgFbEk3fz76slGOg88/s320/P1020890.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">street scene Abyaneh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I would rate 2 or 3 maximum on 5. The bathroom was
new/modern and clean but poorly fitted. The rest of the room was tired with
cheap fittings and appeared drab. The bed was hard. Some rooms had a balcony
which guests could get out onto – for good distance views over town. Mine had
views without the balcony on the 7<sup>th</sup> floor. But there were two
chairs and a table with plates and cutlery but no tea/coffee facilities. The TV
and wifi reception were very good however. There were the usual slippers and
bathroom flip flops – a good custom to discourage use of outdoor shoes in the room-
but the bathroom flipflops were used and grubby unlike at many hotels. Some
rooms had a double bed and a sofa – mine had two singles and no sofa. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqWrnq9ooyBYZ0to7UE_LKrLBE1wmhx-aivi4jSAyXttriqGuW-G3pdMd0A7ShSqnxlHnF11f6GJmJhUN4ooayn7KOyA0ibPZwri_jSWcqkBik_bZPX61SObV92xZIykpnIbOar58KFw/s1600/P1020891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqWrnq9ooyBYZ0to7UE_LKrLBE1wmhx-aivi4jSAyXttriqGuW-G3pdMd0A7ShSqnxlHnF11f6GJmJhUN4ooayn7KOyA0ibPZwri_jSWcqkBik_bZPX61SObV92xZIykpnIbOar58KFw/s320/P1020891.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">shop in Abyaneh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We go out to eat at the Syalk Star Restaurant. This is very
much geared up for tour groups with long tables down the room – but it was a
very good quality with a wide and varied buffet spread, veggie friendly with a
beautiful aubergine dish, potato cakes, vegetables, salad and rice with plenty
of tea and coffee and little cakes/biscuits to finish and friendly staff. The
loos here are very clean – each cubicle in the ladies has a squat and a western
style loo! There is rose water for sale here at a very good price – in April
the rose fields around the town are in full bloom and wonderfully fragrant I am
told. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnxkpgANcTppsAuCO9u0ev6QqRZwRNVivc6rsP5Cla2iFOb_vTlm95Q81HkS_ZYUS_sntFsEcg5AV-z-X88Fxlm6f-xMHj3lOvwbDK7aOprrNnu39DKWASjiaGzS-h2FLfpy4R1uwzQuw/s1600/P1020899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnxkpgANcTppsAuCO9u0ev6QqRZwRNVivc6rsP5Cla2iFOb_vTlm95Q81HkS_ZYUS_sntFsEcg5AV-z-X88Fxlm6f-xMHj3lOvwbDK7aOprrNnu39DKWASjiaGzS-h2FLfpy4R1uwzQuw/s320/P1020899.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">an animal shelter at Abyaneh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Tomorrow we head for <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>,
the last leg of our journey, but not before exploring the wonderful <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Fin</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Gardens</st1:placetype></st1:place>
near our hotel, and one of the magnificent nineteenth century merchant houses,
Taba-Tabal. We have two more full days of sightseeing and a final morning before
we have to head home from <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>, from the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Imam</st1:placename> <st1:placename w:st="on">Khomeini</st1:placename>
<st1:placename w:st="on">International</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Airport</st1:placetype></st1:place>.</div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-53064099390540470582016-12-23T06:30:00.000+00:002016-12-23T06:30:02.616+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - the bridges of Esfahan and more<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho9Q7_NwbrOxYs3DRQTlG93JH-SeRvUBUALfVEHVgnEF-R5tjJcWO5PZO7PVDqDmRrSHCjnNgf5vJObcnOQEutJct2i4sA_az-0rkF9ewquTNxPk4AwGykP1nS-FPxNkab-prnYOtstIs/s1600/P1020720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho9Q7_NwbrOxYs3DRQTlG93JH-SeRvUBUALfVEHVgnEF-R5tjJcWO5PZO7PVDqDmRrSHCjnNgf5vJObcnOQEutJct2i4sA_az-0rkF9ewquTNxPk4AwGykP1nS-FPxNkab-prnYOtstIs/s200/P1020720.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Esfahan sculpture</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan</b></st1:place> October 2016. The
street cleaners are out early – The Iranians do keep their towns spotless – and
after the many family picnics which happen everywhere nothing is left behind. I
do wish I could say the same in the <st1:country-region w:st="on">UK</st1:country-region>. </div>
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<st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan</b></st1:place> beats hands down
any other city I have ever visited. It is so beautiful with so much to see. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9IwvFHLtptkzxaYqFv7bu-hWR7LtMyOv0v6R9zA1rJG1unKe0qf85pzLteqP7Xuj83yeX-ZvjgSqkXe_YiR6bQYpGqw3JAdCJNgdwO60r1FBRgMjqtrC6bp05RGxunkDYUJTxduyKUPQ/s1600/P1020623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9IwvFHLtptkzxaYqFv7bu-hWR7LtMyOv0v6R9zA1rJG1unKe0qf85pzLteqP7Xuj83yeX-ZvjgSqkXe_YiR6bQYpGqw3JAdCJNgdwO60r1FBRgMjqtrC6bp05RGxunkDYUJTxduyKUPQ/s320/P1020623.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the 40 column palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaTzQflb8La-Hic_T9ZJpronpsaeEzEB_mxEltFlFAgYaIQWzjjjZolq8rkWp0kmFQTWUs6hy5F4FoCYdsQG3TBafxwkPOE2ZqVvqw85JHXE_2L0fZfrG89b0TRgkSG4rcJ14S9V3K3rM/s1600/P1020629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaTzQflb8La-Hic_T9ZJpronpsaeEzEB_mxEltFlFAgYaIQWzjjjZolq8rkWp0kmFQTWUs6hy5F4FoCYdsQG3TBafxwkPOE2ZqVvqw85JHXE_2L0fZfrG89b0TRgkSG4rcJ14S9V3K3rM/s320/P1020629.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">battle painting in main hall Chehel Sotun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Imagine twenty 16m high richly decorated columns reflected
as in a mirror in the perfectly still waters below them, creating the illusion
of there being 40 not 20 columns. After a wonderful breakfast at the Abbasi - claimed
to be the best hotel in Iran and easy to see why - this is where we are off to
in our coach; the <a href="http://romeartlover.tripod.com/Isfahan6.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Chehel Sotun</a> - or 40 columns - the most important
surviving Safavid (1501 - 1736) pavilion - and what a sight. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRIEmnwcDN8r-E5ZlQO_mJErKP5pgWQsAFBadJG19i4abM3mHrb_NSdzNpSkXyJ672izQcUoh0jxGNDkcw-ZxVKHKLjiggv4lZ7BuVsaoV0lgMFasDepe3Xn9So0B1IllpZuMpaexijG4/s1600/P1020621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRIEmnwcDN8r-E5ZlQO_mJErKP5pgWQsAFBadJG19i4abM3mHrb_NSdzNpSkXyJ672izQcUoh0jxGNDkcw-ZxVKHKLjiggv4lZ7BuVsaoV0lgMFasDepe3Xn9So0B1IllpZuMpaexijG4/s320/P1020621.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The painting and
gilding of the columns has long since faded, they are no longer hung with
curtains scented with rose water, but the overall beauty of the place is still
there. The huge battle paintings in the main hall and the exterior murals are
all worthy of some <a href="http://romeartlover.tripod.com/Isfahan6.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">detailed study</a>, some dramatic, some very beautiful. Here the
Safavid rulers received their foreign envoys and Shah Soleyman was invested in
1668. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_VtDo2VauF9_bMh6eaw6PX9nbLtI_cfgHgllFlMTjw9ZiPDP9nkvLe2FafrY22C2vJnL3eZJY6pHE8xZHLHS60nh4pzT5Hl-G5HGNUnHa6f4Psw_AQZXGPH79l_rGD4h5AmGMZy2WUmo/s1600/P1020660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_VtDo2VauF9_bMh6eaw6PX9nbLtI_cfgHgllFlMTjw9ZiPDP9nkvLe2FafrY22C2vJnL3eZJY6pHE8xZHLHS60nh4pzT5Hl-G5HGNUnHa6f4Psw_AQZXGPH79l_rGD4h5AmGMZy2WUmo/s320/P1020660.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">beautiful Persian carpets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3MNvIxJRMoeAazG6BDOVY1cq7n9BLuhrOZlXNwrBsfAp7cBWN5buKd7KQlFr91QT0Zc-Yluo_196Bs_-q8CMXbiv63KGUF2mRnzaHheAVqsXkz-cYI_0KBWfgteDuPlcs2sj8fdQqYU/s1600/P1020658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3MNvIxJRMoeAazG6BDOVY1cq7n9BLuhrOZlXNwrBsfAp7cBWN5buKd7KQlFr91QT0Zc-Yluo_196Bs_-q8CMXbiv63KGUF2mRnzaHheAVqsXkz-cYI_0KBWfgteDuPlcs2sj8fdQqYU/s320/P1020658.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a display of carpet styles through the ages</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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No visit to <b>Esfahan</b> could possibly be complete without a
visit to a carpet factory – where we see some very beautiful carpets and learn
much about the different designs through the ages, about knotting and warps and
the dyes used – arrowroot, asparagus, saffron, pomegranate skins, onion skins,
cochineal, rose madder (Rubia tinctorum the madder plant).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKbuPWHPo58kYq0ysRgMxn59nN7wKOu7hWrSjMYPz7P8-HkIqxmvhtAGWdesxVK-cpxxZb5EGmYcoZM4yWNZ7As_rn2rv3i-0y9Ms_0GO8FfoO0MTHbrJ6gLs5DryXyqsEo6o2QU-Mss4/s1600/P1020685.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKbuPWHPo58kYq0ysRgMxn59nN7wKOu7hWrSjMYPz7P8-HkIqxmvhtAGWdesxVK-cpxxZb5EGmYcoZM4yWNZ7As_rn2rv3i-0y9Ms_0GO8FfoO0MTHbrJ6gLs5DryXyqsEo6o2QU-Mss4/s320/P1020685.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Khajou Bridge with octagonal kiosk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The <b><st1:placename w:st="on">Zayandehrood</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">River</st1:placetype></b> flows through <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan</b></st1:place>
- or rather it used to. Today it is a very wide and dried up river bed with a
row of colourful but forlorn redundant paddle boats lining the bank and locals
wondering across its vast expanse. Ten years ago locals swam in it, and it was the centre of social life in the
city on balmy summer evenings. Thanks to drought, <a href="http://www.thenational.ae/world/middle-east/irans-rivers-run-dry-amid-drought-and-mismanagement" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">claims of mismanagement </a></div>
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and increasing population demands it is now a sorry sight.
Long gone are the cafes but the gardens remain. Photos to be found online show
how very beautiful it must have all looked when the water was in full flow. It
seems doubtful if the water will ever return and the city's water supply could be
in crisis.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TJ_Xuu-tRrKTdqNarnxjXHGeoiFC-FGwBKGYj_azPruPkE9Xao-EBK-B6IIQs0XgWsQ72YqE3MZBHdxEZDT5Dy_-H0zLPIzyLwl8p5peWCRNi95Rs3rUP94bhMLx-Gk_sOw7fZMcnLI/s1600/P1020688.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TJ_Xuu-tRrKTdqNarnxjXHGeoiFC-FGwBKGYj_azPruPkE9Xao-EBK-B6IIQs0XgWsQ72YqE3MZBHdxEZDT5Dy_-H0zLPIzyLwl8p5peWCRNi95Rs3rUP94bhMLx-Gk_sOw7fZMcnLI/s640/P1020688.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">panoramic view of Khajou Bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We visit two of the pedestrian bridges here – first the <st1:place w:st="on"><b><st1:placename w:st="on">Khaju</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Bridge</st1:placetype></b></st1:place>
with 24 arches, a central octagonal kiosk and guarded by a stone lion, a tomb stone
probably of a local champion wrestler. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioI85SO3y655xqzq8zn7dT8Rx7AY2fzFi9VxPO4CEaJQHe47cwdKWFovJdG_84Zik9Eoh-EJslN-1DFL6Akn8BtaWGpy1G07JIVnysVMPi_OZpx-Vt1ecbLRiLJ3jGxXl5LFp9BrbZE7o/s1600/P1020699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioI85SO3y655xqzq8zn7dT8Rx7AY2fzFi9VxPO4CEaJQHe47cwdKWFovJdG_84Zik9Eoh-EJslN-1DFL6Akn8BtaWGpy1G07JIVnysVMPi_OZpx-Vt1ecbLRiLJ3jGxXl5LFp9BrbZE7o/s320/P1020699.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Se-o-se Pol or 33 arch bridge</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The second bridge, the 33 arches bridge or
<b>Se-o-se Pol</b> – with its legendary link to the age of Jesus Christ when he died and
the idea that we will all be 33 in heaven, is 360m long, 14m wide, on two
levels and with high walls which were designed to protect the camel trains from
the potential buffeting of winds on the otherwise exposed trip across the
river. </div>
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We then hear that the Bosnian president is visiting the city
today – in our hotel apparently, so all the city sights have been closed
without warning and we were lucky to see <b>Chehel Sotun</b> before it closed to the
public. Many other tour groups have not been so lucky. So we have to rethink
the itinerary for today.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq0TwpldKnX0hvZ5Aj1hq8z13BDDSbOYz1xWxK4byGAvDL7ZAgpd7QQUODKVXNre4rPUd_opcaTIrIO8jkadfHpG3CBKruiYySRwPeSnm3viqsqgIHerJI3FGhyOCrmZERdrN1PhihEkI/s1600/P1020711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq0TwpldKnX0hvZ5Aj1hq8z13BDDSbOYz1xWxK4byGAvDL7ZAgpd7QQUODKVXNre4rPUd_opcaTIrIO8jkadfHpG3CBKruiYySRwPeSnm3viqsqgIHerJI3FGhyOCrmZERdrN1PhihEkI/s320/P1020711.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">redundant paddle boats on dry river - relics of a happier time</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYQfQzjcXqzn3hDChxYSorP_-cqBM8HtLCrhOx_fQbHeD4H-8qwiJBl7oQrNYYp453uG_WRmW7vuRF5AO7QJdH4GqcEoyp8RUUpsqTDVPbqMKicjk2DsPzuZ1R5vsJr8snBrxE5qIqP9Q/s1600/P1020697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYQfQzjcXqzn3hDChxYSorP_-cqBM8HtLCrhOx_fQbHeD4H-8qwiJBl7oQrNYYp453uG_WRmW7vuRF5AO7QJdH4GqcEoyp8RUUpsqTDVPbqMKicjk2DsPzuZ1R5vsJr8snBrxE5qIqP9Q/s200/P1020697.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">no hubble bubbles allowed in park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Lunch is at the Azadi hotel – the inevitable soup starter is
said to be the very best the group had tasted – the flat bread was very nice
and fresh – with the usual salad plate – then trout, or chicken or meat kebabs
– how the Iranians love their kebabs! I thought the veggie option was very good,
made of split lentils and potato cubes in a spicy and tasty tomato sauce –
until I found three chicken lumps. Our guide complained and they brought a new
bowl – but I swear that all they had done was take another scoop out of the
same stew taking more care to exclude any chicken lumps! No dessert, tea or
coffee – probably because we are now off to the mountain above the city for the
view and a tea/coffee served from our coach surrounded by local picnickers. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7ng_nsLwtp9XmF8vaS_JLe-_A9bm8_O9Iy_ct_mOSQkwld_ebO_gYDcdf_I4EMUsH2VhoLOM5l5H6q0ZBXzWOvRnRmjG5GhUklNQ2EJUWVJKmN1l89-AAavWTJZZ4LGWqVs0AZOzST7w/s1600/P1020726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7ng_nsLwtp9XmF8vaS_JLe-_A9bm8_O9Iy_ct_mOSQkwld_ebO_gYDcdf_I4EMUsH2VhoLOM5l5H6q0ZBXzWOvRnRmjG5GhUklNQ2EJUWVJKmN1l89-AAavWTJZZ4LGWqVs0AZOzST7w/s320/P1020726.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">locals enjoy a picnic above the city</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We
climb up above the car park to see splendid views of the city – and young men
smoke hubble bubbles under the trees on the shady terraces. </div>
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We cannot make our planned visit to the mosque today because
of the President of Bosnia visit – most of us opt to go back to the hotel – I
fancy some quiet time enjoying the total peace and beauty of the hotel grounds.
There is very bad traffic congestion because of the presidential visit– street
cleaners in high viz vests travel the city on bikes and motor bikes with besom
brooms cleaning the streets where they see the need. And this isn’t just for the
President – the streets are always kept clean here. This puts us to shame in <st1:country-region w:st="on">England</st1:country-region>.</div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5R8ON775_fPkWErDkys0Ba1S46Kvy9Znm4LWzz1mvXkigWc1NesVyMu5_2CURwA1tvHh0DOr1og1b_5WtHzTtxQ8gI8zpQcmKDbsR7oGLA9NYlNV2a_t11qebydnWIMZZ9umbB4F2ec/s1600/P1020724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5R8ON775_fPkWErDkys0Ba1S46Kvy9Znm4LWzz1mvXkigWc1NesVyMu5_2CURwA1tvHh0DOr1og1b_5WtHzTtxQ8gI8zpQcmKDbsR7oGLA9NYlNV2a_t11qebydnWIMZZ9umbB4F2ec/s320/P1020724.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our picnic cakes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbuszO0OGL4I76OP8Yzg1uA25qyUhFBB2fEb_MpfltL_RwWYDHnCn0BpuSoHZzQbGze4loN6WXASQtMqGg7gvfISpxT_o66mVRC2BvLmzQF0FqVoDtC7gk-nZPxsm0hoHUgoIwP0gnGQs/s1600/P1020738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbuszO0OGL4I76OP8Yzg1uA25qyUhFBB2fEb_MpfltL_RwWYDHnCn0BpuSoHZzQbGze4loN6WXASQtMqGg7gvfISpxT_o66mVRC2BvLmzQF0FqVoDtC7gk-nZPxsm0hoHUgoIwP0gnGQs/s320/P1020738.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my veggie supper at Abbasi was delicious</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Some of the group are dropped off at the bazaar and make
their own way back in time for supper. Back at the hotel I stroll across the
road to the shopping mall opposite which gets a guidebook mention – but I am disappointed
– it seems to be mostly bookshops. The Chehelsotoun Hall (or 40 column) restaurant
at the <b>Abbasi Hotel</b> is a wonderful setting with its paintings, gilding, mirrors
and plaster moulding – below the upper breakfast room. </div>
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This was my very best
veggie meal of the trip so far – with mixed vegetables, roasted, courgettes,
aubergine, peppers, onion, spinach, sweet corn, peas – all beautifully arranged
and delicious. A high quality crème caramel completes a satisfying meal.</div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-24509908821258153092016-12-20T06:30:00.000+00:002016-12-20T06:30:13.227+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - a full day in Esfahan<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOoU5q8qaMmA6slzElcdd5CQvAqFbf_dU3mUKGpkk6pBGOkEWsV4vTbhoy8aUgGPAdYvu-nmftlLfdYFg_GVOQ8strSrNU26eyNSz86I0LxYQ_mC7Hk8fBeSftMA73ji6ohTIghXXEEQ/s1600/P1020569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOoU5q8qaMmA6slzElcdd5CQvAqFbf_dU3mUKGpkk6pBGOkEWsV4vTbhoy8aUgGPAdYvu-nmftlLfdYFg_GVOQ8strSrNU26eyNSz86I0LxYQ_mC7Hk8fBeSftMA73ji6ohTIghXXEEQ/s400/P1020569.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the breathtaking Naqsh-e Jashan Square Isfahan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Surely the most beautiful city in the world? </div>
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Our first full day in <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan </b>or<b> Isfahan</b></st1:place>.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuv1pG4I6o7qRb-ubVxOaoNVPsCJjiaotFdpryTGwuqPKPMBPiXsBGKhXlMu0wMmkymGq8Hyni9bNhbGIdbvA2nPL9mOL6dmzIpEdBo47G2woNvOLGbzvMZltA9r0G6zwZSdWGM7nue_k/s1600/P1020346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuv1pG4I6o7qRb-ubVxOaoNVPsCJjiaotFdpryTGwuqPKPMBPiXsBGKhXlMu0wMmkymGq8Hyni9bNhbGIdbvA2nPL9mOL6dmzIpEdBo47G2woNvOLGbzvMZltA9r0G6zwZSdWGM7nue_k/s320/P1020346.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside the Vank Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
First we go across the river to the Armenian quarter and see the All Saviours’
or <b><a href="http://payvand.com/blog/blog/2011/01/02/photos-new-year-2011-at-the-vank-christian-church-in-isfahan-iran/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Vank Armenian Cathedral</a></b> (Vank means monastery or convent in Armenian)
dedicated to St Joseph of Arimathea. After the Ottoman War of 1603-05 Armenian
immigrants settled here in search of a new life under the Safavid King Shah
Abbas I and established this Cathedral, one of the first churches in <b>E<st1:city w:st="on">sfahan</st1:city></b>. Construction began
around 1606, and was completed with major alterations to design between 1655
and 1664. </div>
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The wall and ceiling paintings are fabulous, described well
<a href="http://www.payvand.com/news/10/aug/1217.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here </a><br />
<br /></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhbI6-RhtaZ94O6FZ9evdNQGY4N5TDd6OBNofQqxvvTqTJ-3JgFikajgvnUlgv2U9T3kLViGEE7j9ckQwWhUrfAFp11HMkRFj2Pjk2ci-Z0zdkgaUhoJbQfMHByxbTf4IdJ-QP6i4SMOA/s1600/P1020359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhbI6-RhtaZ94O6FZ9evdNQGY4N5TDd6OBNofQqxvvTqTJ-3JgFikajgvnUlgv2U9T3kLViGEE7j9ckQwWhUrfAFp11HMkRFj2Pjk2ci-Z0zdkgaUhoJbQfMHByxbTf4IdJ-QP6i4SMOA/s400/P1020359.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edict to protect rights of Armenian<br />Christians</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LQeCIT-y1RObt4C1Zbczo3mL2sIgxjzn4IB1AFyMDSh-9oZdx4WkEBNAdjD-cWSBG3ZRzIfpVyugsL9j4Npkj8nXa4xsPKoAU2zHhW1XKk_C-TktiN-v8qzoM00NHpDi-6_2o-svD0s/s1600/P1020354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LQeCIT-y1RObt4C1Zbczo3mL2sIgxjzn4IB1AFyMDSh-9oZdx4WkEBNAdjD-cWSBG3ZRzIfpVyugsL9j4Npkj8nXa4xsPKoAU2zHhW1XKk_C-TktiN-v8qzoM00NHpDi-6_2o-svD0s/s320/P1020354.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the Vank Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The adjoining <a href="http://www.iraniantours.com/images/attractions/isfahan/vank.htm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">museum</a> is equally
superb and both totally absorbed our attention – in the museum we marvelled at the
ancient documents, including the 1606 edict of Shah Abbas I establishing New
Jolfa and prohibiting interference with, or the persecution of, Armenians and
their property and affairs in the district.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4jitmS9gzMeKZwS4lZMIXFw6OnAyMCCVGWi6vdZIeF6XJw1QQSPNX-1Xd9jkTPlQ6vt3vE38lD9N_muLf25RkjEhcvXN188SqUdl1KgPJw5TSszPNO5t4WDNPGSGZHd9N_k9RKvW1gM/s1600/P1020378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4jitmS9gzMeKZwS4lZMIXFw6OnAyMCCVGWi6vdZIeF6XJw1QQSPNX-1Xd9jkTPlQ6vt3vE38lD9N_muLf25RkjEhcvXN188SqUdl1KgPJw5TSszPNO5t4WDNPGSGZHd9N_k9RKvW1gM/s320/P1020378.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christian Gospel written on parchment 1329 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There are hundreds of handwritten
books stored here and we saw beautifully illustrated bibles and Korans, the
first book printed in Iran with an old printing press also on display, a
variety of objects related to Armenian community in Isfahan such as Safavid
costumes, tapestries, paintings, (including Mt Ararat and the Armenian Church
on the island in Lake Van, both of which were seen on my <a href="http://wisdomoftolerance.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/pilgrimage-to-eastern-turkey-mount.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">pilgrimage to SE Turkey</a> ) embroidery, and other ethnological displays related to Armenian culture
and religion, a very moving wall display of the Armenian Genocide, the world's smallest prayer
book, in 7 languages, casks for Holy Relics, and all needed quite a while to
truly appreciate. </div>
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A visit to a real Iranian coffee shop next was a great treat
- especially as we all had a huge chocolate cake to share!</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Mz1XOiZS0S_5Kzs4rrcOxd9gpYd0VYrW8k9ub3L0rftOdwNJw18rrW7rk2CWa8YkpVFv4aRaJ09UAyI3kv5WzZkOFysxhFlImelAZ4HhOCtYtr0T_HNG3m4YoYpb82e-EPPGuZJD30E/s1600/P1020432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Mz1XOiZS0S_5Kzs4rrcOxd9gpYd0VYrW8k9ub3L0rftOdwNJw18rrW7rk2CWa8YkpVFv4aRaJ09UAyI3kv5WzZkOFysxhFlImelAZ4HhOCtYtr0T_HNG3m4YoYpb82e-EPPGuZJD30E/s320/P1020432.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">drawing a miniature freehand</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBFShi-EmAI79gHiWZwjzKVUIotEcAqv4IsnnW9Rlkm0HpAg6dD5vuKZfAvwhanKlqCxOzaPhzFX9mi96jDkj5sodcbJv26Yb2gh5KrYOkLbccSv2e7aWLEcGX604H-C-9T0KHnasoipE/s1600/P1020437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBFShi-EmAI79gHiWZwjzKVUIotEcAqv4IsnnW9Rlkm0HpAg6dD5vuKZfAvwhanKlqCxOzaPhzFX9mi96jDkj5sodcbJv26Yb2gh5KrYOkLbccSv2e7aWLEcGX604H-C-9T0KHnasoipE/s320/P1020437.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">window display of camel bone miniatures</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our next stop, suitably refreshed, is to a miniatures
workshop – the expert who displays his wares to us here has 40 years’
experience and gives us some information on the different materials in use – ivory (now
forbidden of course), camel bone (next best – retains colour for 100 – 200
years), plastic (not so good!), and cow bone which cracks quickly. Therefore
when buying these miniatures, we are warned, beware the material used and make
sure we know what we are buying to avoid later disappointment. The special pens
he uses are made of cat hair, and colours used are mostly natural, for example from
pistachios, walnuts and pomegranates. </div>
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We walk through the bazaar to lunch – at the Partikan Hotel
- and this is very good indeed. They make a special dish for me, I think it is butternut squash in a sweet sour thick sauce with the usual salad but all very freshly prepared.
The meat looked like haggis but was rated highly by the meat eaters – there is jelly,
water melon and cream custard for a sweet finish to the meal. It is all very good with
slick service and rated highly by us all.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEvdzmOYFrKIYyYfvXNRQ2pMuI_xPEwP58_Yp3MIeMwen0SpVkUVf4EOFRtELQzbyEjaDK4w77jju4Cwms2hvZYq60UJmRlEiEhsHDe3-6zmLkfXzD0wdaVkU4Fz-7Bdfa_Wq2pXk97TQ/s1600/P1020493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEvdzmOYFrKIYyYfvXNRQ2pMuI_xPEwP58_Yp3MIeMwen0SpVkUVf4EOFRtELQzbyEjaDK4w77jju4Cwms2hvZYq60UJmRlEiEhsHDe3-6zmLkfXzD0wdaVkU4Fz-7Bdfa_Wq2pXk97TQ/s640/P1020493.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside the <b style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Masjed-e Imam</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg8ZUq5DLBJzpyDHd_FpKeYZvqZyhe6LbIQ4zJsUAughwt0Sbnoj4RowbIWD5I4ea9Fjbt6KgGv1ZYJFG11WbOz1qRReaQk3fFWpzfvRe7mIDg2puVdnxDKwox-HwpKN6zhVaxr5ryO4Y/s1600/P1020497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg8ZUq5DLBJzpyDHd_FpKeYZvqZyhe6LbIQ4zJsUAughwt0Sbnoj4RowbIWD5I4ea9Fjbt6KgGv1ZYJFG11WbOz1qRReaQk3fFWpzfvRe7mIDg2puVdnxDKwox-HwpKN6zhVaxr5ryO4Y/s320/P1020497.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside the double dome of the <span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Masjed-e Imam</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At the <b>Masjed-e Imam</b> Ali treats us to more of his moving
singing beneath the epicentre of the double dome structure of the great prayer hall - there is a great echo here - and explains the theory behind the construction. The inner dome is weight bearing - at its apex there is a 14 metre gap between the inner and outer dome, the latter with a more bulbous external profile which stands 54 m high. The courtyard is offset 45 degrees from the main entrance so that it can face <st1:city w:st="on">Mecca without spoiling the appearance of the entrance on the main square. </st1:city></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In a further courtyard behind the building we enjoy a question
and answer session with a Mullah.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3t_SkLXqmVjD9N06la1O_WDK-1ib4pfesfdDdMgkFES2BBMkWr9XLA3VbGpzr6tvR6xby7bTRuu0UPUeh9GHipgOQNirHcq_NcVBpShT8ibXULzOjSLnLIrwjFf7MTSvGk2vcyvX7F_g/s1600/P1020507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3t_SkLXqmVjD9N06la1O_WDK-1ib4pfesfdDdMgkFES2BBMkWr9XLA3VbGpzr6tvR6xby7bTRuu0UPUeh9GHipgOQNirHcq_NcVBpShT8ibXULzOjSLnLIrwjFf7MTSvGk2vcyvX7F_g/s320/P1020507.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">opportunity for discussions with a Mullah</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieuSKBDbPwCtPZX20ecWQ2TtGv0Uydl4327mXpTlgofBhcH24yoLgQjymsT2nnyaH9nCVUbC6gHt1CdR1kWIDjhyphenhyphenv1BUoy6FLmH_qQD-G8QByVB-UVDhFLZkPEljv-Olya_1ChFf54dZs/s1600/P1020513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieuSKBDbPwCtPZX20ecWQ2TtGv0Uydl4327mXpTlgofBhcH24yoLgQjymsT2nnyaH9nCVUbC6gHt1CdR1kWIDjhyphenhyphenv1BUoy6FLmH_qQD-G8QByVB-UVDhFLZkPEljv-Olya_1ChFf54dZs/s320/P1020513.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">block printing in Esfahan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJvROWK3qnxmj2R13w8t7IgPM1-XfLu-80OsMMaar8LqV4DvedZ7LW3YC-3lXU5OcDbdFidKydRfiLlouMIKH4FyRV2eXSLacUs-w64atEyxAVjbd5KHcE82eGXTFAHqX3-DWdaImSB4c/s1600/P1020514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJvROWK3qnxmj2R13w8t7IgPM1-XfLu-80OsMMaar8LqV4DvedZ7LW3YC-3lXU5OcDbdFidKydRfiLlouMIKH4FyRV2eXSLacUs-w64atEyxAVjbd5KHcE82eGXTFAHqX3-DWdaImSB4c/s200/P1020514.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">various traditional blocks for the printing <br />process</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So onward through the bazaar - to a linen shop and a demonstration of <a href="https://samirajamali.wordpress.com/2014/12/08/textile-printing-or-ghalam-kar-persian-name/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">linen block-printing</a>– where we watch the process and I buy a very pretty
cushion cover. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At the Romano restaurant in the evening we enjoy the usual
soup, followed by a very good, fresh and plentiful salad, and the main course
was lion fish from the <st1:place w:st="on">Persian Gulf</st1:place>, with a
sesame chicken and prawns. It was beautifully presented, as was my veggie dish
which was moulded vegetables and very tasty. All good quality but huge
portions. The bread was very good, the service friendly. There was fruit to
finish – like a smooth skinned orange. We were not entirely sure what it was. </div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCMbp-9nOi9jTXwxFmmYwlTacZji-GPxVNiKfyXt-8HcYrxFjwQGXJv9dQGFJ3cMFk7DfEMrbxgdtPT_AIzIXN6Gf0NbVenO9G_riAsWUSR85mFYKtSnr94y1lglijg2_xNhkVfTXB440/s1600/P1020588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCMbp-9nOi9jTXwxFmmYwlTacZji-GPxVNiKfyXt-8HcYrxFjwQGXJv9dQGFJ3cMFk7DfEMrbxgdtPT_AIzIXN6Gf0NbVenO9G_riAsWUSR85mFYKtSnr94y1lglijg2_xNhkVfTXB440/s320/P1020588.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">attractive veggie choice at the Romano Restaurant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0iqwPO2SBBp0Zv6f_vSjbUcmAWdWFyK0-w6VzCGVkQAtwksRqwti9-NdGfgDtQ8ypERdtBIPgJbIMf57TQ_IAmm-1Pr1izsoRYoMQ8AnYbvdUTD6c1zbusB_AG3J17tnogrrSYW_XL80/s1600/P1020589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0iqwPO2SBBp0Zv6f_vSjbUcmAWdWFyK0-w6VzCGVkQAtwksRqwti9-NdGfgDtQ8ypERdtBIPgJbIMf57TQ_IAmm-1Pr1izsoRYoMQ8AnYbvdUTD6c1zbusB_AG3J17tnogrrSYW_XL80/s320/P1020589.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lion fish at Romano Restaurant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-26920696110838117352016-12-17T06:30:00.000+00:002016-12-17T06:30:08.045+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey -the road from Yazd to Esfahan<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vcrl2hA7BlyApCYZxRLIXiupeC1DKL1t2g06MADQyJmSyElJigP-W86042gcIBRJEyd3XoXQW_tVfTnClTyGiIWVVjbSlfjRhHWIfVGIHq5Zc7etWqDrZtqIO8G04TYXQYm1HD9E2DE/s1600/P1020185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3vcrl2hA7BlyApCYZxRLIXiupeC1DKL1t2g06MADQyJmSyElJigP-W86042gcIBRJEyd3XoXQW_tVfTnClTyGiIWVVjbSlfjRhHWIfVGIHq5Zc7etWqDrZtqIO8G04TYXQYm1HD9E2DE/s400/P1020185.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the protected old town around our hotel in Yazd </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-iia9vzsZxRVuLll7f538cSWSen_7FSyY_wv6FLynfRleRVbjowg5ow-lQ71HjhQAGFqdJ8-NlWGPPeTLLJb9vEQABsBDajfDkrwaHgDMFgIQiyU3awsk2_oyE5Ju7ZKGHAzlErK2vhM/s1600/P1020190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-iia9vzsZxRVuLll7f538cSWSen_7FSyY_wv6FLynfRleRVbjowg5ow-lQ71HjhQAGFqdJ8-NlWGPPeTLLJb9vEQABsBDajfDkrwaHgDMFgIQiyU3awsk2_oyE5Ju7ZKGHAzlErK2vhM/s320/P1020190.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">layby vendor Yazd outskirts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We leave <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Yazd</b></st1:city> for <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan</b></st1:place> – a journey of 316 km – but there will be plenty
to see along the way so we should not be bored.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lorries full of water melon are being unloaded at shops as
we leave town; </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSiEmaAAKIpSDXg93B6XeiHCmbp9lQ8vKXg7vBr_IsyWO0eO1lY5RCR7izXdSMso9xVyW5Wowkn78ElQ7LdYacLxVAZzFcWWN0fo0EiN6w_ZGPwX0mIw66zRH81gtOh_Fr9Ko9-6IgRpE/s1600/P1020278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSiEmaAAKIpSDXg93B6XeiHCmbp9lQ8vKXg7vBr_IsyWO0eO1lY5RCR7izXdSMso9xVyW5Wowkn78ElQ7LdYacLxVAZzFcWWN0fo0EiN6w_ZGPwX0mIw66zRH81gtOh_Fr9Ko9-6IgRpE/s200/P1020278.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">charity box in layby</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
there are blue and yellow charity boxes every 30 yards or so
along roads – they are everywhere throughout Iran; <span style="font-size: 12pt;">These are placed by the <b>Imam Khomeini Relief
Foundation</b> which was founded in 1979 to provide support for poor families and
help them to regain financial stability. </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3VW2T5znjnEsDPNY8UtxcbQrmtYRZGMra62h8VZEDCszxRERtT00xXECrX-qUfaUYgcSL3GEm5jsiWGH8dnPcNLqcs3OaaaEOggdjIB8vGdtaAjmW-0pHKs9Q1cx3KYuAeLjZvnPj60/s1600/P1020193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3VW2T5znjnEsDPNY8UtxcbQrmtYRZGMra62h8VZEDCszxRERtT00xXECrX-qUfaUYgcSL3GEm5jsiWGH8dnPcNLqcs3OaaaEOggdjIB8vGdtaAjmW-0pHKs9Q1cx3KYuAeLjZvnPj60/s320/P1020193.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">soil excavation and brick piles - local industry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Water </span>channels or <i>jubs</i> along the roads in the towns are
flushed through regularly or may be permanently flooded; they serve to keep
temperatures lower and clear rubbish. Live chickens in pens are for sale on the
outskirts of <st1:city w:st="on">Yazd</st1:city>
by the side of the road – (the first live chickens I have seen here – given the
huge consumption of eggs and chicken meat I fear most must be reared indoors in
factory farm conditions?) There is the occasional field of sunflowers – and we
are soon back in the desert – with camel bushes planted to stabilise the sand.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR3IYftR5fDz-BDVcf19rxD41gdlZ9EjUG9p7ZfegSch5cHzm-mFN0H208cpDT6vVQvztN2YbeR4-esy2hrY2RII_78aubRYEexvkEp4hnfTAyGC48aAGPZ79olf1xraL9RdSLUMzeqns/s1600/P1020200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR3IYftR5fDz-BDVcf19rxD41gdlZ9EjUG9p7ZfegSch5cHzm-mFN0H208cpDT6vVQvztN2YbeR4-esy2hrY2RII_78aubRYEexvkEp4hnfTAyGC48aAGPZ79olf1xraL9RdSLUMzeqns/s320/P1020200.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Narin fort at Meybod</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As mentioned already, the soil around here is good for
bricks and tiles – and there are plenty of piles of bricks to be seen
everywhere, with much evidence of soil excavation for the manufacturing
process. The tiles they make are expensive and stylish for private houses and
apartments.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Meybod </b>is known for its traditional
sweets especially sesame, its many caravanserai, its pigeon houses and ice
houses. Here we see an ancient mud brick citadel <b>Narin Fort</b>, dating back to 4000
BC, which we stop and photograph. This used to guard the caravanserai and the
town itself. There is 6000 BC pottery here in the Seljuk hills. This was a
strong Zoroastrian centre as well as now being well known for its pottery
workshops producing domestic pottery - in a riot of patterns and vivid colours.
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDMdx6j9TreDc1asy_vAW696fGiU8LgiSalItgY-8ohC1cqHvAKJDZiAGE6cBki6h5RGoMY-uRDJdVPzOOe-Hy04euBUaZUqrBiEzRDEsj_DjNqRV_59594yb_FtmmiJQDm-LGd6Cv7Ko/s1600/P1020204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDMdx6j9TreDc1asy_vAW696fGiU8LgiSalItgY-8ohC1cqHvAKJDZiAGE6cBki6h5RGoMY-uRDJdVPzOOe-Hy04euBUaZUqrBiEzRDEsj_DjNqRV_59594yb_FtmmiJQDm-LGd6Cv7Ko/s320/P1020204.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pottery shop and blue/yellow charity collection box</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here also we have a modern pottery demonstration. It is
superb to watch the skill of the expert and very funny when our own group have
a go! The shop here is a good souvenir opportunity and the pottery I took home
from here was well received. It is very pretty. I wish I could have bought more
but the airline strict weight restrictions must have had quite a negative
effect on souvenir shopping generally - especially for the heavier items such
as pottery and metal plates for example. I feel very sorry for the tradesmen
who must have noticed this. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPoluZWDvKoey164dPxLpUiEO7FWuoDRevtZG0wH_OXNH2aQHnisEKDSIPtVeYx8mr5dGOhsC4nE5DxwI5qV7ytZ4OBvIhjegyR0s_tKCRlklP4dP7w0Gx93g65aQnVDFBRtcpaTdWsY/s1600/P1020207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPoluZWDvKoey164dPxLpUiEO7FWuoDRevtZG0wH_OXNH2aQHnisEKDSIPtVeYx8mr5dGOhsC4nE5DxwI5qV7ytZ4OBvIhjegyR0s_tKCRlklP4dP7w0Gx93g65aQnVDFBRtcpaTdWsY/s320/P1020207.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pottery demonstration</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLybWzwGxOaGu4V5p7O4RID6C2NEKvv2MNyF1mShwjNhgz085NE5rVC4GSdTlrtuN9R0lYmSFEk9PQwBPLmofWrR_ftw6XgYtPcLinhR1ki_kSCKZTC12CkqJqXmqP45dRRnWI9eWVXjg/s1600/P1020223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLybWzwGxOaGu4V5p7O4RID6C2NEKvv2MNyF1mShwjNhgz085NE5rVC4GSdTlrtuN9R0lYmSFEk9PQwBPLmofWrR_ftw6XgYtPcLinhR1ki_kSCKZTC12CkqJqXmqP45dRRnWI9eWVXjg/s320/P1020223.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">shop in caravanserai</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A further twenty minutes down the road we stop at a restored
<b>caravanserai</b> for a comfort break and another shopping opportunity. There are
lovely little artisan shops here; one lady is making handbags – and there is a
coffee shop – but we have our own picnic by the coach – with gorgeous little
fig sweets. There is an ice house on the opposite side of the road as well as a
Post Office museum, in the last of these post office stations remaining in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region>. Sadly we
have no time to see this. Some school
boys out on a trip want us in their selfies!
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZIa4cj1OWtQ7QcDVgNl4z5ojsn9x3F-aWRHmTH7vEs7RiJio_7GJn9gOV7ZJRI16IsW6TDsUyrgmhsT-H5etZL1Mf2q52WmXxC3l1P8CCzCKswSfU2rI70SavePg1_NTMBGZFFfonQk/s1600/P1020240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZIa4cj1OWtQ7QcDVgNl4z5ojsn9x3F-aWRHmTH7vEs7RiJio_7GJn9gOV7ZJRI16IsW6TDsUyrgmhsT-H5etZL1Mf2q52WmXxC3l1P8CCzCKswSfU2rI70SavePg1_NTMBGZFFfonQk/s320/P1020240.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">factory farm?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
It is still another 75 miles or c. 2 hours to lunch. Everywhere we still see photos of the war martyrs.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
We pass pistachio orchard, farms and what I feel sure are
factory farms. We also see several old <b>caravanserai</b> in various states of preservation,
in desert landscape surrounded by distant mountain ranges. The traffic is
mostly lorries and tour buses – except on the Friday holiday, when many private
cars take to the roads and travel long distances to visit the same attractions
that we are being taken to. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ1smBQdsokG9UCOKVGz_k5jF3KEoVS9zTKMP70kxtk_637GJ1S4dlTF1V8BXQpeMH5LDupMn8uEt6D13iTvzOvSNyAjMG4PJ0iP8V0fZCpYUOXPeu4cgZJSVISWdu9II1GvYjnLV6cZE/s1600/P1020241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ1smBQdsokG9UCOKVGz_k5jF3KEoVS9zTKMP70kxtk_637GJ1S4dlTF1V8BXQpeMH5LDupMn8uEt6D13iTvzOvSNyAjMG4PJ0iP8V0fZCpYUOXPeu4cgZJSVISWdu9II1GvYjnLV6cZE/s320/P1020241.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">roadside vendor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is the least interesting part of the whole drive to
date – there is mile upon mile of desert as far as the eye can see with a
distant hazy mountain range. Even the farms are now very few and far between.
Occasional fruit vendors display their wares of pomegranate and water melons in
lay-bys. There is a camel warning sign – we do see some camels much later in
our journeying but not here. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then at <b>Mohamediye</b> we visit a carpet weaving workshop. We
chat to a woman who is friendly and very welcoming but clearly curious about
our group. Her husband hovers behind her and she has two beautiful young children.
</div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX0VKMHBWKljmuIfkXQvUGLHfFMiJVukRdKS-OwNa3HBbCyjqFM_OJGe9XGZ01B852cnpnX1nQFz76Nx1iPfqWLe5H5748zjOr276kWdkx40D9ky_Dl5gxxT9MuTLMEr8ZkVrZ2Ult864/s1600/P1020261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX0VKMHBWKljmuIfkXQvUGLHfFMiJVukRdKS-OwNa3HBbCyjqFM_OJGe9XGZ01B852cnpnX1nQFz76Nx1iPfqWLe5H5748zjOr276kWdkx40D9ky_Dl5gxxT9MuTLMEr8ZkVrZ2Ult864/s320/P1020261.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our carpet weaver</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The carpet weaver has been doing this work since he was 8 –
he didn’t go to school. His children don’t want to carry on the skill – they
would rather be lorry drivers – which is very sad. All his sisters are in the
same trade and his wife works similarly at home. We watch as he skilfully
weaves, dresses the cloth with a soap mixture to keep the moths away, uses a
fine abrasive block to smooth the cloth and carefully trims the edges with fine
nail scissors. He has made all the rugs which are for display in this workshop.
We buy lovely little circular rugs – beautifully made – for 700,000 rialls each
or about £17 at today's rate.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc4Zfy1-nH0cMPEUBbrfyWkkGnCnA76va-lq6wlLTmU8-hEXavB4fB4sxTlF4PnjRbw9dbadpsflNWOuH5vFoAl_9z5xzQueQkQ3rPMBqWbEFfTIzftBp5UH0iWQ7GR6kWl9yyCujMtBE/s1600/P1020265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc4Zfy1-nH0cMPEUBbrfyWkkGnCnA76va-lq6wlLTmU8-hEXavB4fB4sxTlF4PnjRbw9dbadpsflNWOuH5vFoAl_9z5xzQueQkQ3rPMBqWbEFfTIzftBp5UH0iWQ7GR6kWl9yyCujMtBE/s320/P1020265.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">underground carpet workshop - for cooler working conditions</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lunch is at the Naeen or Na'in Tourist Hotel – they
were not apparently expecting us and we had a little wait for seats but this
was perhaps the best lunch we have had so far – soup starter, bread which was
very fresh, a very good freshly prepared veggie dish of grilled tomatoes, rice
and chips with pickled cabbage - all
very tasty and nicely presented. The rest of the group had the usual rice with
beef or chicken kebabs but they were also said to be very good. Grapes and
bananas completed the meal. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-bC3XzVgFGJobeCYG9M-cRWsgbesFl7epCk1o5ErfWljNrxbIkpunymKQxgoHs5rjhhq4hkFFpp2NUZxymyx-eui6nC0W9r6VQZE6gSJWXu31-ElFmn5kl9eZnXNpC2EkZjdg8wFN83w/s1600/P1020243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-bC3XzVgFGJobeCYG9M-cRWsgbesFl7epCk1o5ErfWljNrxbIkpunymKQxgoHs5rjhhq4hkFFpp2NUZxymyx-eui6nC0W9r6VQZE6gSJWXu31-ElFmn5kl9eZnXNpC2EkZjdg8wFN83w/s320/P1020243.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">typical farmyard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So now we are on the road again for <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan</b></st1:place>
with another 125 km to go.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are mountain ranges on both sides – the snow breaks at
the side of the road warn of less benign weather than what we are now
experiencing. There is also a warning sign for cows in the road – I never saw
any on our entire trip – although again there is much beef eaten – halal of
course – so it must all be factory farmed I guess?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3p-8RDEQiXJOxTJFpsvuVO_BiHwo1nm0SJ7BCS3AytZR68xlbzv3gOLlM8_nH8MqU3sEF3dIjDqcUnGnxa9HQ2x8wLgqKC4vHzmHBl_zuJCdS2m7qfSwwruMpuu_Aok3Krv1NPdt2KjI/s1600/P1020246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3p-8RDEQiXJOxTJFpsvuVO_BiHwo1nm0SJ7BCS3AytZR68xlbzv3gOLlM8_nH8MqU3sEF3dIjDqcUnGnxa9HQ2x8wLgqKC4vHzmHBl_zuJCdS2m7qfSwwruMpuu_Aok3Krv1NPdt2KjI/s320/P1020246.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">old caravanserai</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This road has several well preserved <b>caravanserai</b> . We pause on the journey to look at a <b>qanat</b>
system. This was a very ingenious system of underground water channels which
tapped the water from the aquifers in the mountains and guided it down to the
fields for irrigation. The line of the channels can be seen above ground by way
of raised earth mounds like huge ant hills on top of which are inspection
hatches. Men would climb down deep into the channels beneath to maintain and
regulate the flow. Sadly the area has become a dreadful litter tip for
flytipping. They are best seen in the <st1:place w:st="on">Yazd</st1:place>
area and the <a href="http://www.irantourismcenter.com/?page_id=5850" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><st1:placename w:st="on">Water</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Museum</st1:placetype></a> there had a very good explanatory display for this most
ingenious engineering which dates back 400 years before the Romans had built
their aqueducts! </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As we get closer to <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan</b></st1:place>
it is getting noticeably greener – some fields are obviously well irrigated
here - nowadays more often by concrete channels rather than qanats. We pass
through an ugly industrial zone as we approach this most beautiful city in the
world.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8BnAe6c9ISkhsJ5C5c4ZbNG1vt24zPX3Rh5HRmqhREaYspgNhKzFSgcRhuHhnAhO2SK0FgaOub-Arcr4re1oBheFaAuos_uXCPWQWiNBw_RagKHJVHMM1rev_YvAWSa4RVum54Ui0QhI/s1600/P1020285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8BnAe6c9ISkhsJ5C5c4ZbNG1vt24zPX3Rh5HRmqhREaYspgNhKzFSgcRhuHhnAhO2SK0FgaOub-Arcr4re1oBheFaAuos_uXCPWQWiNBw_RagKHJVHMM1rev_YvAWSa4RVum54Ui0QhI/s320/P1020285.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">entrance hatch to qanat system</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To our left is a large National Park where live 1500 deer,
4000 wild goat, 800 sheep – plus hyena, fox, wolves, vultures and eagles.
Plenty of springs and water support the wildlife. There are very pretty little
pink flowered bushes by the side of the road. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzzVrNSO55MUez3orBRAyfgpI1O83XYTAsZ-KoNPacngqGfDNIGUO-SC1WSuUVAZgeLWjp8XDwgBbovDqAEZNwD3ODYyttcJC6lh-tph8nbnMwxn3CsxCDCw3wh22LGmzpFBEWxbXz8xE/s1600/P1020289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzzVrNSO55MUez3orBRAyfgpI1O83XYTAsZ-KoNPacngqGfDNIGUO-SC1WSuUVAZgeLWjp8XDwgBbovDqAEZNwD3ODYyttcJC6lh-tph8nbnMwxn3CsxCDCw3wh22LGmzpFBEWxbXz8xE/s320/P1020289.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">row of qanats</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We are at 1650 m altitude. The city's water supply comes
from 120 km away in the mountains. The river in the city is dry – there has
been a 50 year drought and while people used to picnic and boat on the river
they now walk on the dry river bed and the boats lie idle on the bank. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our guide tells us that <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Esfahan</b></st1:place>
has the reputation for being stingy – there are lots of jokes in the same vein
as our Scottish jokes.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is evening and still 23 degrees outside the coach. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We check in at the Abbasi Hotel. It is an old <b>caravanserai</b> now
converted to what is claimed to be the best hotel in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region>. It is easy to see why – it is
hard to imagine anything else could be better. But stay in the main hotel rather
than in the large modern extension blocks built behind the gardens, and in a
room looking onto the courtyard rather than on to the road or you are likely to
be disappointed. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQXP2Rtnkc-cDflTVxHwQNiJZcFiqbCMinhLa-Hqv5StJPfkQri3o6vMwa-TERFfGSdvejqg8_jaAfpvMGQFOK5SvxW-R7sXV_xs9s6oMNKfh7z0JWuwYzyYh86anXVez6O9_HOcoS4WE/s1600/P1020300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQXP2Rtnkc-cDflTVxHwQNiJZcFiqbCMinhLa-Hqv5StJPfkQri3o6vMwa-TERFfGSdvejqg8_jaAfpvMGQFOK5SvxW-R7sXV_xs9s6oMNKfh7z0JWuwYzyYh86anXVez6O9_HOcoS4WE/s320/P1020300.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sunset on arrival at Esfahan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The evening meal in the hotel is OK –hotel restaurants are
not usually the best idea anywhere in the world but we need to give our
wonderful driver a break after such a long day on the road. We eat in the
Traditional Restaurant – I think it is very good – not all agree – they have
the usual kebabs – but my veggie dish is beautifully done for me – and they
have lovely sweets – Halva (a dense sticky sesame sweet with honey) and Fereni (a
sort of Persian rice custard with rosewater) and a sticky honey cake. They all
satisfy my very sweet tooth.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is strange to have to remember to put on our hijab scarf
just to go out on the balcony – and remember to do so to pop out for help with
adapters from the amazingly helpful housekeeper across the corridor. </div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5yg7AgAXcpNrc3_MnG3ixMGDlfYlZ9eUm7zQE4hphXCVIrhclazi6QT35FDr6IClTA_yKVeCCe_QXAOluLLpf4708ku_9zqRhvi5pX05t5LT-aN5P_pIj7KcDl3d5uBairWd2pOhgPA/s1600/P1020325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5yg7AgAXcpNrc3_MnG3ixMGDlfYlZ9eUm7zQE4hphXCVIrhclazi6QT35FDr6IClTA_yKVeCCe_QXAOluLLpf4708ku_9zqRhvi5pX05t5LT-aN5P_pIj7KcDl3d5uBairWd2pOhgPA/s320/P1020325.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">remember to wear your hijab!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Buying a stamp for a postcard in one of the gift shops down
in the hotel reception area the assistant has to stick this on with some
incredibly strong smelling glue from a tube she keeps for the purpose. One has
to remember to ask for this when buying stamps everywhere.</div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-77202078545198663302016-12-14T06:30:00.000+00:002016-12-14T06:30:08.676+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - a day in Yazd<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZwvYOuMk6wy5DXzLaZU7nKsRnoWpF9w7HLmisjaBfNGmcfT54hWGVkVzn_Xt5E2fTltz2TYAgvFSDPWQRqZjHvGkb1SCWr_hKmN4q4ny93vtSfZGl9yS-q5Jd60HBF1vx4N9yJeAy8sk/s1600/P1020085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZwvYOuMk6wy5DXzLaZU7nKsRnoWpF9w7HLmisjaBfNGmcfT54hWGVkVzn_Xt5E2fTltz2TYAgvFSDPWQRqZjHvGkb1SCWr_hKmN4q4ny93vtSfZGl9yS-q5Jd60HBF1vx4N9yJeAy8sk/s320/P1020085.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chadors for sale in bazaar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our guide tells us that <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Yazd</b></st1:city>
is one of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region>'s
wealthier towns. Certainly we see many big quality houses as we drive through.
Much new building is going on outside the old historic centre and he tells us
that saunas and jacuzzis are becoming increasingly popular. And now <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Yazd</b></st1:city> is a stop on the main railway line between <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city> and <st1:city w:st="on">Kerman</st1:city>
– a journey of nearly 1000 km. Apparently 10 years ago most people used
bicycles to get around. Now they own cars - and there are thousands of motor
bikes on the roads, which seem to follow their own traffic rules! Few seem to
have lights on at night, lane discipline seems non-existent, all-in-all it
seems a free for all from my high vantage point in the coach. It all seems very
busy and not pedestrian friendly. Far more women seem to be in black chadors
here than in <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city>
- a very conventional society.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwv5yic2pNtMKyo9kk37Ve48T60T6iVTq7wzLmLgxkW0rHAQsbWn1h6k7jatdXn3qszj_IJzJ00AfhyyZg16I7fsoR7GEAIXw0bPloFZbEnHhX90B0hZWP6n0U3_XGeNoPFxaeZRfVnqE/s1600/P1020089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwv5yic2pNtMKyo9kk37Ve48T60T6iVTq7wzLmLgxkW0rHAQsbWn1h6k7jatdXn3qszj_IJzJ00AfhyyZg16I7fsoR7GEAIXw0bPloFZbEnHhX90B0hZWP6n0U3_XGeNoPFxaeZRfVnqE/s320/P1020089.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">abandoned bicycle shop in bazaar!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Backpacking is apparently becoming popular among local
Iranians because of the high cost of travel between towns by public transport. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We pass a playground where the schoolgirls are all in black
– waving black flags – I suspect this is part of their <b>Moharram</b> ceremonies -
the commemoration of the death of the third imam Hossein, this year being held
during the month of October. <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Yazd</b></st1:city> is the centre
of these celebrations in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region>.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Much of the wealth in <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Yazd</b></st1:city>
has come from pistachio and copper exports as well as from tourism and other
fruit and vegetable. The people here are also merchants – importing/exporting
with <st1:country-region w:st="on">India</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on">China</st1:country-region>. Also
pilgrims stop here overnight on their way north to the shrine of Imam Reza in <st1:place w:st="on">Mashhad</st1:place>. And the soil in the surrounding countryside is good for the manufacture of tiles and bricks.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3WqlpJvULRfAzgHAxFkrcvbBW5JYMzHQVZ1KljpYkU46PE3UkcX80Tv4c8ts7vcKz4JBAiryf33CSNTx78ivo1L_9LAKmDXckFQcG_ZZr1sCtOjB_xTDW6eZjh87ss2Wwqz-4WoiQrHg/s1600/P1010986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3WqlpJvULRfAzgHAxFkrcvbBW5JYMzHQVZ1KljpYkU46PE3UkcX80Tv4c8ts7vcKz4JBAiryf33CSNTx78ivo1L_9LAKmDXckFQcG_ZZr1sCtOjB_xTDW6eZjh87ss2Wwqz-4WoiQrHg/s400/P1010986.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Towers of silence site</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMqT8AZwS6xTyzln-DA8LAruvUda-Qq2HMsaqYCbsGMp47hIrtUWbRWrfkhmoi5LSHaOi972M1aDCmIc9JVB4KWQXLuAVlLorqp409h46ESqEhC9xoE1MIvncJN3v52Q1pD8IJMRq2yM/s1600/P1020003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMqT8AZwS6xTyzln-DA8LAruvUda-Qq2HMsaqYCbsGMp47hIrtUWbRWrfkhmoi5LSHaOi972M1aDCmIc9JVB4KWQXLuAVlLorqp409h46ESqEhC9xoE1MIvncJN3v52Q1pD8IJMRq2yM/s320/P1020003.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">on the top of the Tower - note central pit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaPwD3Hu6QwBrhKd8W7VPWs68Qj_hXBiN9t4I1I4K333O-RWWG0ZJxxCBPSGDldvUx-JWm-Z5R5W6HWJqsqFkkZ_WnNmUcCKUp429WBPH6NTAJz1dlVG6oyqKTd7sgow67BQmW9_bksyw/s1600/P1010989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaPwD3Hu6QwBrhKd8W7VPWs68Qj_hXBiN9t4I1I4K333O-RWWG0ZJxxCBPSGDldvUx-JWm-Z5R5W6HWJqsqFkkZ_WnNmUcCKUp429WBPH6NTAJz1dlVG6oyqKTd7sgow67BQmW9_bksyw/s320/P1010989.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the journey up to the Tower of Silence</td></tr>
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Our first stop of the day is at the <b><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Zoroastrian</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Towers</st1:placetype></st1:place>
of Silence</b> (dakhmeh) – these are simply fantastic! And have the best WCs so far! (male readers may find my obsession with loos somewhat bizarre - but it has to be said that for some ladies on these trips the state of some of the traditional squats became a bit of an issue - it's much easier for you men!!) The energetic among us climb to the top of the lower tower, time not permitting a trip to the other one. At the top we reach the stone platform where until quite recently the deceased Zoroastrians would be left to the vultures and natural decay. We see the central pit or drain which would have been filled with sand, charcoal and phosphorus. This is all to prevent pollution of the earth, recognising the sanctity of earth, fire, air and water. It is important to remember that the area should be treated with the same respect which we should give to all religious and sacred spaces. Zoroastrians are now buried in a concrete chamber in the modern cemetery we can see below us - again to avoid pollution of the earth. </div>
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Below the towers we explore the various buildings, including a water cistern with two wind towers or badgirs (see below), a mourning room, and mortuary preparation area. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiteB7mDLcPHXVwQqOsXwtC_IN694p78mlWsxffszoNjUdQxPOat_lUbP9lv8IwfPrQQkPvegL2aug4XWf1hm_LOLNe_c_UCZbR5K8ZlEibSD_nOx0Mz_EZmsxg1jRWBxBid39TaiNSwZ8/s1600/P1020004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiteB7mDLcPHXVwQqOsXwtC_IN694p78mlWsxffszoNjUdQxPOat_lUbP9lv8IwfPrQQkPvegL2aug4XWf1hm_LOLNe_c_UCZbR5K8ZlEibSD_nOx0Mz_EZmsxg1jRWBxBid39TaiNSwZ8/s400/P1020004.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">view from top of one of the Towers - modern cemetery on left in background</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZ2Ygd7NlHZOw4r7pnWItwx8Dr9ic7VTAObzp3mHz154IsdJODW18PyEPyMDhbi94CZhj9HrkGU0wX_7Lpez9ojd2A05nsj6HqNq24EtZ6oHVoTF5NCgaOQ1fbICtWnEI-io_Lu80APw/s1600/P1020023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZ2Ygd7NlHZOw4r7pnWItwx8Dr9ic7VTAObzp3mHz154IsdJODW18PyEPyMDhbi94CZhj9HrkGU0wX_7Lpez9ojd2A05nsj6HqNq24EtZ6oHVoTF5NCgaOQ1fbICtWnEI-io_Lu80APw/s320/P1020023.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the faravahar zoroastrianism symbol</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpwPyGcUxb3OXoLSSQVAbYNDWYbVijTdbCaEXoZ68z3SiqLQjCoeIzV_suxlhWqAzUt0NF8o6qM0HGK4wcPTDrbUU8FV4vnup7ETMn5WQfMZX86pE9d7HXTIMX9bCaR9Uy-9kdOnSCMSI/s1600/P1020028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpwPyGcUxb3OXoLSSQVAbYNDWYbVijTdbCaEXoZ68z3SiqLQjCoeIzV_suxlhWqAzUt0NF8o6qM0HGK4wcPTDrbUU8FV4vnup7ETMn5WQfMZX86pE9d7HXTIMX9bCaR9Uy-9kdOnSCMSI/s320/P1020028.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a script from the Yasna Zoroastrianism text</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzH_6sH-kJcSntEkIZjWLj4h6mwgrjvTDDm7xeQnBVwszJtUlk0z1_UCmcq9ZllvEd8gW9AFWRyo6sfln9f7At2FUxstNkMj1je2a7MZ8FgM0RJHSicSfTIdmz7YCKTHWI8p3FKdzq0g/s1600/P1020026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzH_6sH-kJcSntEkIZjWLj4h6mwgrjvTDDm7xeQnBVwszJtUlk0z1_UCmcq9ZllvEd8gW9AFWRyo6sfln9f7At2FUxstNkMj1je2a7MZ8FgM0RJHSicSfTIdmz7YCKTHWI8p3FKdzq0g/s320/P1020026.JPG" width="166" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the sacred zoroastrianism flame <br />in Yazd</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We then make our way to the <st1:place w:st="on"><b><st1:placename w:st="on">Zoroastrian</st1:placename> <st1:placename w:st="on">Fire</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Temple</st1:placetype></b></st1:place> (Ateshkadeh) – the wood used to
keep the sacred fire continually burning - it has been alight without interruption since 470 CE if not before - is usually walnut. It is all shielded by a glass screen to prevent pollution from our breath. Here there is a very interesting
Zoroastrian museum as well – but we have woefully little time to see all that it has to
offer and resort to taking lots of photos to study later – the joys of digital
photography. We are reminded that when Jews went into exile this is the
religion they would have met.</div>
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(more information on <a href="http://schools.yrdsb.ca/markville.ss/history/religion/nazoB.htm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Zoroastrianism</a> including what the symbol represents)</div>
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The <st1:placename w:st="on">Wind</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Tower</st1:placetype>, wind catcher or <i><b>badgir</b></i> we visit next has 4 towers - with a map of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region> set out in
the paving alongside. These constructions are very clever. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJfwHXYCppJWYZEOJlUE8MKUR74V06wOs0igv9_cC2z2OYcvGSqnlhofduVcyxnMZWt8j2uCqImuhai2sUZKOrvskMAEId7zexKNrXMDg5z_ltYAMnRL4-ZCVSQlJoN6TYWXZrnMV46I/s1600/P1020058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJfwHXYCppJWYZEOJlUE8MKUR74V06wOs0igv9_cC2z2OYcvGSqnlhofduVcyxnMZWt8j2uCqImuhai2sUZKOrvskMAEId7zexKNrXMDg5z_ltYAMnRL4-ZCVSQlJoN6TYWXZrnMV46I/s320/P1020058.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">four tower badgir and water cistern with map of Iran</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The badgirs rely on their
design to draw and funnel a breeze into the tower for cooling purposes - this one is associated with a water cistern. Others are on residences - and may incorporate a pool or fountain below to further cool the air before it is distributed throughout the rooms - an effective and much cheaper device than the
preferred modern air conditioning. They are also </div>
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Next we see the Façade - it looks like a mosque - but it is
not. Its foundations are 15th century, but it was built in the 19th century, as
a viewing platform for city parades, for example at the annual <b>Moharram</b>
ceremony. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn-yzU79HbaVAGtKSElM2g9PKVH1Wf8MZYhltQDtI16gXgKZ5NeqT-Kug2cwWEa5jQcDg2iyXBFiU4cXmv1U560skAKLjQLqSYfRYTvXwXP1ak1uyVpAwERhNcl7XaiEmemZh97hgwTnU/s1600/P1020063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn-yzU79HbaVAGtKSElM2g9PKVH1Wf8MZYhltQDtI16gXgKZ5NeqT-Kug2cwWEa5jQcDg2iyXBFiU4cXmv1U560skAKLjQLqSYfRYTvXwXP1ak1uyVpAwERhNcl7XaiEmemZh97hgwTnU/s320/P1020063.JPG" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Facade with Nakhl to the right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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By the side of the façade stands a huge wooden Nakhl - this looks
like a giant palm leaf - and during the <b>Moharram</b> ceremony it is covered in black and carried by 70 or so strong young men. It must be exceedingly heavy. We are to see quite a
few of these, in various sizes, as we travel through the country.</div>
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We walk through a square with a large expanse of water in
the middle - past some sweet shops - to the <a href="http://www.irantourismcenter.com/?page_id=5850" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Water Museum</a> - This is an excellent and fascinating display of the history
of the water irrigation and supply systems of the area - with English
translations on the captions. You will never take water for granted again after
visiting this I promise.</div>
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A walk through the bazaar brings us to lunch. As we go past
all the various stalls we cannot help noticing evidence of greater wealth here
than in Shiraz - the quality and value of goods in the bazaar, the pots and
pans, the children's furniture, all evident - and the cycle shop which has gone
out of business. </div>
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Lunch is at the Silk Road Restaurant – with a good choice of
drinks, in an informal and relaxed atmosphere – but the salad buffet was very
basic and tired and the bread was stale. There was however a good veggie
aubergine dish – and camel meat for the others! </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIdGbBLj8X878DsbknuVZSy1oney5x9YkFWmEj3CCep5tSjp5F_pDOfHaWaps6J2Cr6pY0LLa7WUw2QU9pxqAAUGnSu5UiAs_M9dbelWw2UDcgnuKapgU_z9XOqdXhTrZNBjLfwvfsr5o/s1600/P1020112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIdGbBLj8X878DsbknuVZSy1oney5x9YkFWmEj3CCep5tSjp5F_pDOfHaWaps6J2Cr6pY0LLa7WUw2QU9pxqAAUGnSu5UiAs_M9dbelWw2UDcgnuKapgU_z9XOqdXhTrZNBjLfwvfsr5o/s400/P1020112.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">intricate cut tiling work in Friday Mosque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindaSodAilgiTb6Txv66ZBcurwfWqIJGZmPEBbD00jMKoGG8IAFbU7dX6TNT4_DTFPw0HWuv4JjlWOgtHDPc7PpuKp8S4XObNiXcOWVnWrn94D3GXXZkW-qFIgU3Rtwp_vHRc0ynEeHmk/s1600/P1020113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindaSodAilgiTb6Txv66ZBcurwfWqIJGZmPEBbD00jMKoGG8IAFbU7dX6TNT4_DTFPw0HWuv4JjlWOgtHDPc7PpuKp8S4XObNiXcOWVnWrn94D3GXXZkW-qFIgU3Rtwp_vHRc0ynEeHmk/s320/P1020113.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wonderful tiling of the mirab in the Friday <br />mosque</td></tr>
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The Friday mosque - <b>Masjed-e Jame</b> - is our next port of call, founded originally 1119, over a ruined Sassanid fire temple. The 1375 mihrab is magnificent. </div>
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After an ice cream stop we go back to our hotel for the hottest part of the day
– the whole town virtually shuts down as people shut up shop and go home for
siestas.</div>
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Our hotel has a traditional tea lounge where some of us enjoy the refreshment on offer. </div>
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Suitably rested and ready for our supper, we first call by
the <b>Bagh-e Dolat Abad</b> a garden with the tallest badgir in the world at 33m, at the former governor's
pavilion. This tower collapsed in the 1960s and was
rebuilt. We marvel at the coloured glass and the clever wind ventilation system
in the small two storey restored pavilion which is open to the public - and can
definitely feel the cool breeze created from the <i>badgir</i>. The gardens are beautiful - even more so as the light fails
and the spotlighting at the pavilion changes through different colours - red,
green, blue…</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPuQt_eIcnRpXv741pcfv4Kr06tUmbJDyXHANZKLN_O5l4_DoFX3O26TIcwjcVWfRzKtuhom33PMYOb38ksicaB54cY27jYBOgA8jRxq5AYwErumkOmToXOnjsHBwpHuy6pICcazu2yG8/s1600/P1020151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPuQt_eIcnRpXv741pcfv4Kr06tUmbJDyXHANZKLN_O5l4_DoFX3O26TIcwjcVWfRzKtuhom33PMYOb38ksicaB54cY27jYBOgA8jRxq5AYwErumkOmToXOnjsHBwpHuy6pICcazu2yG8/s320/P1020151.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the 33m tallest badgir in the world</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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So on to supper at the Malek-o Tojjar Mehr Hotel – it is quite a challenge to find through the bazaar on foot - you need a guide
or a good map! There was no veggie option – only mushroom and pepper stir fry
from the vegetable range – the salad was uninteresting – we didn’t like the
cinnamon tea very much – bread not the freshest and others didn’t rate the meat
dishes highly. But it was a lovely big atmospheric room in a traditional hotel. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdaoF4mNSnIIJsdL3byv_0oHuc2gqpvZB8qEQAcsxzL3CSGgE2ibYS5D97UXPFIxTo99j6Glh4uPf0_rWSIqdr2fjN6utj_FU7TRsqZkQIjBlux6YlYvZtWAjkNqiNzXJAErhvkZTzrc/s1600/P1020154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdaoF4mNSnIIJsdL3byv_0oHuc2gqpvZB8qEQAcsxzL3CSGgE2ibYS5D97UXPFIxTo99j6Glh4uPf0_rWSIqdr2fjN6utj_FU7TRsqZkQIjBlux6YlYvZtWAjkNqiNzXJAErhvkZTzrc/s320/P1020154.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the wind funneling mechanism in roof of badgir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8EZV-_GYO63V1ERpq0w92noMT89hiASNhi67OOm5S5dx_-ZIjmmJJbumDwowODM3A2Sj9dkIVToKBtjuKinKRKkfFecb_8S3APHn0GC3k3fY88nFjxVuo5q8HPUarVncouK-IqRnzrOw/s1600/P1020161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8EZV-_GYO63V1ERpq0w92noMT89hiASNhi67OOm5S5dx_-ZIjmmJJbumDwowODM3A2Sj9dkIVToKBtjuKinKRKkfFecb_8S3APHn0GC3k3fY88nFjxVuo5q8HPUarVncouK-IqRnzrOw/s320/P1020161.JPG" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">coloured glass window at Bagh-e<br />Dolat Abad</td></tr>
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It's been a long day - with still so much to see ... tomorrow we are off to <b>Esfahan</b> - surely the most beautiful city in the world - and we enjoy watching traditional pottery making and carpet weaving along the way - with a chance to buy some lovely souvenirs to take home.</div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-50362639769753328292016-12-11T06:00:00.000+00:002016-12-11T06:00:17.925+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - the road to Yazd<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNroeA8X_foCoFQNgTDBciPoJnNwCiRkyWTl6yr2wKXYM14ZjA0X8-52R-UKleb7BEwU-L2QkYbMvEof3rHDUzIcsl3HTZz-K96o1CHkrKeBDsWadvKG4ckygqeT0_V7gxm6l6ENLHwUo/s1600/P1010858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNroeA8X_foCoFQNgTDBciPoJnNwCiRkyWTl6yr2wKXYM14ZjA0X8-52R-UKleb7BEwU-L2QkYbMvEof3rHDUzIcsl3HTZz-K96o1CHkrKeBDsWadvKG4ckygqeT0_V7gxm6l6ENLHwUo/s320/P1010858.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ceiling at the Saadi Tomb</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We are leaving <b>Shiraz</b> today and have a long journey to <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Yazd</b></st1:city> - but first we stop on the outskirts of <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city> to visit the Tomb of Muslah al-Din <b>Saadi</b> set in its own lovely gardens.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwN8HykehdyT6X0-BVTw_yJcCb1V87tWWLR-iZlRLs1TXbRPqRv3CZwzfAk_dvcDV4Nt0tCzEDzOM-tqQc_D_JXTicv95981v8rbPsWRcSzCJtE7l-rCHmZQAH8uLrD9F82zGki2Y9wN8/s1600/P1010860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwN8HykehdyT6X0-BVTw_yJcCb1V87tWWLR-iZlRLs1TXbRPqRv3CZwzfAk_dvcDV4Nt0tCzEDzOM-tqQc_D_JXTicv95981v8rbPsWRcSzCJtE7l-rCHmZQAH8uLrD9F82zGki2Y9wN8/s320/P1010860.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saadi poetry panel from The Rose Garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Our guide has a beautiful singing voice and treats us to his
interpretation of some of the poet's verses which are portrayed in colourful
tiles on the walls in the mausoleum. One is a panel of prose from <i><b>Golestan</b></i> or <i>The Rose Garden</i>, written in 1257, one of <b>Saadi</b>'s major poetic
works. <i>The Rose Garden</i> is a
collection of stories and wisdom in eight chapters, with each section
representing a flower of the garden. It is still very popular among Iranians and
our guide will readily quote and explain passages from the poem which is full
of moral guidance. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Z4abAX3rfYXf0vWfAuE1keKG5_rkeYn2kj9JVXefU_rUvWOXGR2zTWLx7CvL-KkeE4F8omaqVkaO3UTF8CgUbvlSdk11pe9vNap93qu0pRScsR1SSDrXqqQex2rVMFzTpmAn6sUZi9U/s1600/P1010863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Z4abAX3rfYXf0vWfAuE1keKG5_rkeYn2kj9JVXefU_rUvWOXGR2zTWLx7CvL-KkeE4F8omaqVkaO3UTF8CgUbvlSdk11pe9vNap93qu0pRScsR1SSDrXqqQex2rVMFzTpmAn6sUZi9U/s320/P1010863.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the gardens at the Saadi Tomb</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Another popular quote from the poet, inspired by his own
unhappy marriage, goes thus: "A good wife comes with a good man to dwell -
she soon converts his earthly heaven to hell." </div>
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There is a man meditating by a pool in the grounds - it is
all very peaceful and I would have liked time there myself to savour the peace
and quiet.</div>
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The loos here are modern and clean - a rare treat here!</div>
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<br /></div>
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We now have a three hour drive to our restaurant for lunch
on the way to <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Yazd</b></st1:city> - passing <st1:city w:st="on">Persepolis on the way.</st1:city></div>
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Seat belts are only compulsory here on the main roads out of town
and we are told there are police checks on this. Our coach stops to pay a toll,
due also from lorries, but from which the cars seem exempt. We have a
fascinating lecture on education through Iranian history, from c. 550 BC
onwards, to while away the journey - but I cannot take my eyes away from the
scenes which unfold through the window on our way - there are so many
interesting sights. We follow the 55N towards Esfahan and <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>
but turn off later to the east at Surmaq towards <st1:place w:st="on">Yazd</st1:place>.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2pIrylicMo1n7_-c8gOKZLSWEwZNhVxN_KIv6tUE0LC2nun6prFF8uIwe7cFHWsDT3gPc4m86TcqKJs5JUudB5GgA2VVCtyYMe0R6NcrT0QIsCDwuy8l2vorjVAoRJER7xl8RlFK84Ts/s1600/P1010922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2pIrylicMo1n7_-c8gOKZLSWEwZNhVxN_KIv6tUE0LC2nun6prFF8uIwe7cFHWsDT3gPc4m86TcqKJs5JUudB5GgA2VVCtyYMe0R6NcrT0QIsCDwuy8l2vorjVAoRJER7xl8RlFK84Ts/s400/P1010922.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">scenery on road to Yazd</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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It's 24 degrees outside - pleasantly warm for me given the
dry heat - with none of the humidity that often makes <st1:country-region w:st="on">UK</st1:country-region> summer heat
so unpleasant. The message scrolling across the information bar at the front of
the coach includes a safety message about seat belts and a blessing for our
journey in the name of Muhammed - also reminding us that bottled water is
freely available in the fridge by the back door. We need to drink plenty to
avoid dehydration.</div>
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A village in the distance prominently flies a huge black
flag - we see many of these on our journey - they are marking the mourning
month of <b>Moharram</b>, a full 28 days each year commemorating the tragic death of
the third Imam, Hossein. This year it covers the month of October - the dates change
annually. </div>
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There are still many nomadic settlements dotted around near
the road - no doubt they are here to help with the vegetable harvesting. A few
rather grand villas in their own green compounds are in stark contrast to the
dusty looking sandy coloured stone villages we pass and the nomads' tented
settlements.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJxb9S5dI98gwDw0eNvbysMEWiJihXAvA8GlSOIjuNdMQrBNyfiUApvFOYiht3sK0QRTlphUoQge-Eyd910HPk-ps94JMOZBwIPJX9Xns-YHOziLG4_nFWIXuvVp5Sxw0Av9QudZvHrl0/s1600/P1010878.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJxb9S5dI98gwDw0eNvbysMEWiJihXAvA8GlSOIjuNdMQrBNyfiUApvFOYiht3sK0QRTlphUoQge-Eyd910HPk-ps94JMOZBwIPJX9Xns-YHOziLG4_nFWIXuvVp5Sxw0Av9QudZvHrl0/s320/P1010878.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">marble quarry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We're now on a high plain - with the road following the
course of a dried out river for some time. There are many concrete irrigation
channels here set into the fields - with sluice gate controls - perhaps fed by
the new controversial Sivand dam nearby (see 5th December post).</div>
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There are a few donkeys - not so common in this part of the
world - and most farm compounds seem to have a collection of old tractors and
combine harvesters and other farm implements. We still climb, and come above
the agricultural zone into a rocky terrain criss-crossed with rough side roads
and tracks. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLOM8KPmqrT4nA1qUE0xotBwBHtpytOJqBl2nVnIrmpmhH8KHIJ820BdOlu-W2-NnGyhe5xJ9I5vAdUdPVSz8cFO4jgM15Ml13qbmsCvo09V68vkVCqSSiXFfqyE1TXzNBbP6GQhVrqus/s1600/P1010901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLOM8KPmqrT4nA1qUE0xotBwBHtpytOJqBl2nVnIrmpmhH8KHIJ820BdOlu-W2-NnGyhe5xJ9I5vAdUdPVSz8cFO4jgM15Ml13qbmsCvo09V68vkVCqSSiXFfqyE1TXzNBbP6GQhVrqus/s320/P1010901.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The mountains here are rich in minerals and there is much
quarrying activity. We pass a very large marble mine for which the region is
famous - as reflected in the wonderful and extensive marble tiling and walls
and floors we see in many of the buildings we visit. </div>
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At midday we arrive at our turn off towards <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Yazd</b></st1:city>, stopping soon for a loo break by a
rather magnificent mosque in a small village. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBlZHevQym6lg-HARHZ2bv8gXx4Zv25cQwYMfPEGbONN7M6n-UmzmtpEWZjvEVZ3RyQVpIhtsD9W_-gi4m0gh9usrBfunYYgt-wIX49FmCX5KGbS0ia5neaC9-WTgROEpo8LnwFxD_ppw/s1600/P1010909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBlZHevQym6lg-HARHZ2bv8gXx4Zv25cQwYMfPEGbONN7M6n-UmzmtpEWZjvEVZ3RyQVpIhtsD9W_-gi4m0gh9usrBfunYYgt-wIX49FmCX5KGbS0ia5neaC9-WTgROEpo8LnwFxD_ppw/s320/P1010909.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">fresh bread on the bus</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Ali buys some fabulous fresh
bread in the local shop and we tear and share it on the coach. It is lovely. It
is still an hour before lunch and we welcome the stop and the refreshments. We
continue to drive further north west and higher into the mountains. The terrain
becomes increasingly bleak and barren and villages are few and far between
here. We are now 195 km from <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city>.
For a long while we drive through very arid scrubland - but multicoloured rock
faces look rich with minerals - looking like the multi spice "cakes"
for sale in the spice shops in the <st1:place w:st="on">Esfahan</st1:place> bazaar
we will visit later in the week. A magnificent jagged mountain chain looms out
of the haze of dust and heat on our left. The road is very long and straight
ahead of us.</div>
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A lonely man is litter picking into a large yellow sack
seemingly a long way from anywhere. I can only guess that he is finding
something with a recyclable value. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZngdUaROhhzPO9nuAoc1DqkXIyvUjp65JrRylIusSISQxCRfQSv7K8iJjBWRXLDpbJxYxndpWRIrX_rnr_TisUB2bX_SwoKaSpeIwBebm93MPNGso33x1qIrOnpFyo3oQpKr5jYyhfxg/s1600/P1010956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZngdUaROhhzPO9nuAoc1DqkXIyvUjp65JrRylIusSISQxCRfQSv7K8iJjBWRXLDpbJxYxndpWRIrX_rnr_TisUB2bX_SwoKaSpeIwBebm93MPNGso33x1qIrOnpFyo3oQpKr5jYyhfxg/s320/P1010956.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">snow melt area in otherwise barren landscape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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There is much snow up in this area in the winter and the
snow melt catchment areas show green and lush, where many fruit trees are
cultivated - peach, mango, cherry, pomegranate, grapes, almonds, apples …
Otherwise the area is quite barren. </div>
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Hunters from <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city>
have decimated the wild life in this area and the countryside to our left is
now designated a National Park. </div>
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We stop to eat somewhere on the road around Faragheh to
Abarkuh but I am not sure where. </div>
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Although the restaurant has a very unprepossessing interior
and is geared for tour groups, locals also eat here and the food was very good,
the service efficient and friendly. And they made me a lovely veggie dish of
aubergine and potato stew, although from later experiences perhaps they just
fished the meat out of it! Veggies beware! The low point of the meal was the pre-packaged
plastic container of cabbage salad to start - very boring. </div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglVMvrLCBW1uiI0vxN3-_CEZuJ1SFcB-SKbqzfz-W2eIrdac5ghBbBwQN6NXLQLOZA5TtwMkU3LC2xZM7YIrOEMdz-CtDLuvGa3xRmeY1IXp3tZhH0ntcAu9b-bV38mRAERzFjde4y6Mo/s1600/P1010925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglVMvrLCBW1uiI0vxN3-_CEZuJ1SFcB-SKbqzfz-W2eIrdac5ghBbBwQN6NXLQLOZA5TtwMkU3LC2xZM7YIrOEMdz-CtDLuvGa3xRmeY1IXp3tZhH0ntcAu9b-bV38mRAERzFjde4y6Mo/s320/P1010925.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mosque along the way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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There is another beautiful mosque in the middle of nowhere - </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK7istBoTL9xPDmFE2pDKvFnK7nBV54wtwAZDyTrkLv3I2OveuOLjjgno0Pjk0xLfmfzyLM4ZX8bOQz054CcDYVc34c4S09Ghsz5lSgEpl9AHCCMvG4QNxFk3mHDgibDGQmVeHAD_qD7c/s1600/P1010932.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK7istBoTL9xPDmFE2pDKvFnK7nBV54wtwAZDyTrkLv3I2OveuOLjjgno0Pjk0xLfmfzyLM4ZX8bOQz054CcDYVc34c4S09Ghsz5lSgEpl9AHCCMvG4QNxFk3mHDgibDGQmVeHAD_qD7c/s200/P1010932.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside the icetower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFUgNuojiVoL1xF6FQbtAUadM-JM2Em_Sf1dvI_ygELU0e5tjUzfl_hIrcsGzxlZBog289mkFkRdGMCYPqIM63qMs_vimKaiF0uHgbqAZ1ZQXeejR-ZuOoPRaqxDmMrRbquOVv5EN3Zmg/s1600/P1010929.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFUgNuojiVoL1xF6FQbtAUadM-JM2Em_Sf1dvI_ygELU0e5tjUzfl_hIrcsGzxlZBog289mkFkRdGMCYPqIM63qMs_vimKaiF0uHgbqAZ1ZQXeejR-ZuOoPRaqxDmMrRbquOVv5EN3Zmg/s320/P1010929.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the icetower at Abarkuh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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and we stop to see the ice tower in <b>Abarkuh</b>. These are large fire -brick domed constructions set deep into the ground and formerly used for ice storage, a version of our own English country estate icehouses. </div>
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<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
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There are old caravanserai (inns with central courtyards built for travellers or caravans)<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"> </span></span>along the route here
approximately 30 km apart - to facilitate the change of horses and availability
of refreshments for the postal service or Royal Road across the country which was introduced by <b>Darius the Great</b> - and was the world's f<a href="https://iranwonderland.com/2014/08/29/the-world-first-postal-service-of-darius-the-great/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">irst postal service</a>! It later became part of the Silk Road. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We drive through pistachio country and see many small
pistachio tree plantations. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our guide tells us that the road to <st1:city w:st="on">Yazd</st1:city>
attracts camels out of the cold desert at night to the tarmac which has been warmed during the
day and retains its heat. For this reason it can be very hazardous to drive
at night - sand storms are another hazard.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The small bushes or Camel Thorn here are very slow growing, stabilise the sand,
and can be 200 - 300 years old.</div>
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<br /></div>
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We are now going through miles of desert and its totally barren. At Dehshir we turn left
towards Taft and approach a mountain range. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb_shdYd9yXgRSG9s2iDZxxA25ihp5qQ687LCCvR9I2KMltjcEoCamGGGPv886GD7WlqZPJeA8WH3MRpmX7ctlm22WXCmyRbnR5uTP7xMAw4O3OBcjFhJL6g3R0s4MkjFtV1WtRwc99Jc/s1600/P1010951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb_shdYd9yXgRSG9s2iDZxxA25ihp5qQ687LCCvR9I2KMltjcEoCamGGGPv886GD7WlqZPJeA8WH3MRpmX7ctlm22WXCmyRbnR5uTP7xMAw4O3OBcjFhJL6g3R0s4MkjFtV1WtRwc99Jc/s320/P1010951.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">picnic preparations</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Soon we stop at the side of the road for another welcome picnic -
the driver and guide Ali are really good at putting on these impromptu refreshment
stops. They put up table and stools and a paper table cloth, serve coffee and
tea from huge flasks filled up by the last hotel, and invariably supply
delicious local cake and biscuit delicacies which they have bought along the
way. Fabulous. Here we have a lovely <st1:city w:st="on">mountain
view</st1:city> but the road is fast, the litter horrible! Litter
is a very real problem all along the open roads; a sad contrast with the
pristine cleanliness of the towns and cities.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6WeZ4xIaJXHZbUyV2ZLcXNWdPi5Q1xERDHQ1X1sMW-eWy2Cp4iGP9DpY27k-s3rr86v34_ZpPVBGh1H83HVN9Ss2PlLHnXqlOHiq3mGOtiu7L9O8zKfnYpQtVon9pGkO_aBfBkkqfwIY/s1600/P1010952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6WeZ4xIaJXHZbUyV2ZLcXNWdPi5Q1xERDHQ1X1sMW-eWy2Cp4iGP9DpY27k-s3rr86v34_ZpPVBGh1H83HVN9Ss2PlLHnXqlOHiq3mGOtiu7L9O8zKfnYpQtVon9pGkO_aBfBkkqfwIY/s320/P1010952.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">in the Lion Mountains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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It's 4.30 and the sun is getting low in the sky. We climb up
into the mountain range - the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Lion</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Mountains</st1:placetype></st1:place> - and my ears pop
as we descend again - the sun makes gorgeous colours in the mountains as it
sets. There are old Zoroastrian villages to the west of the road - they still
have their fire towers and fire festivals take place every year in January apparently. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8foSx053gRb-zCq0MZeDxI878g_7mNpW-tRp0T7VxKLd0-hl1MIXtQszOIY9kn-QqwLu_MKxTCbKkj3TzNUQv5iJHEO4X-KsV2MXiqPaVWE95Z47tn2YTSmt7cid1kqUXRX4ywVbXos/s1600/P1010960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8foSx053gRb-zCq0MZeDxI878g_7mNpW-tRp0T7VxKLd0-hl1MIXtQszOIY9kn-QqwLu_MKxTCbKkj3TzNUQv5iJHEO4X-KsV2MXiqPaVWE95Z47tn2YTSmt7cid1kqUXRX4ywVbXos/s200/P1010960.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eagle Rock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The Lion Mountains separate Yazd from the scorching hot
central desert where the temperature can climb into the 70s, so they are essential
to keep Yazd significantly cooler, albeit still up to 50 degrees in the height of summer. The locals tend to
have small houses here in the mountains to escape the worst of the summer
temperatures. This is a big pomegranate and walnut growing area, with some
saffron also. Chicken in walnut sauce is a popular dish here. The wildlife here
is protected - wildgoats (I saw a small herd on the mountain side),
hyena, wolves, foxes, cheetahs, vultures. </div>
<br />
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<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">We pass Eagle</st1:placename> Rock</st1:place> - some
imagination is needed! And the mountain range is now very dramatic in the setting
sun. The lights of <st1:city w:st="on">Yazd</st1:city>
appear in the distant haze and soon we are at our hotel. <st1:city w:st="on">Yazd</st1:city>
is at an altitude of 1125m and 677 km to <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>.</div>
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for more on the poet Saadi see <a href="http://www.ircv.org/download/Sample_Beyond_Poetry.pdf">http://www.ircv.org/download/Sample_Beyond_Poetry.pdf</a> and </div>
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<a href="http://www.iranchamber.com/literature/saadi/books/golestan_saadi.pdf">http://www.iranchamber.com/literature/saadi/books/golestan_saadi.pdf</a> </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1tRy4Jn20a5ZTffLZHaKc0koc4uydJ0400GArkVWCmGpN0Dg6unl-mbl0PtLHFTZLJs0z9lfdQpkyMgkCQMZaj5hr0ra4ZsyNmUUdSdCFuW2xbKBx356yzckFu2VhPmfZd-Qv0TkSOGo/s1600/P1010967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1tRy4Jn20a5ZTffLZHaKc0koc4uydJ0400GArkVWCmGpN0Dg6unl-mbl0PtLHFTZLJs0z9lfdQpkyMgkCQMZaj5hr0ra4ZsyNmUUdSdCFuW2xbKBx356yzckFu2VhPmfZd-Qv0TkSOGo/s320/P1010967.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">traditional restaurant in Yazd</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWNkPbDQkUqTI3xro1gvci_KLjV8wc9GHJ3DDdWz-YBUZLXdWRw85B9dU29laDCFlt7yVUA0acuu33ycobTRRO5zBiRLzarCT_HbAkRI37xG9_E1yOAZOp6NO7JN5wSi1A5_31OzSnGk/s1600/P1010966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWNkPbDQkUqTI3xro1gvci_KLjV8wc9GHJ3DDdWz-YBUZLXdWRw85B9dU29laDCFlt7yVUA0acuu33ycobTRRO5zBiRLzarCT_HbAkRI37xG9_E1yOAZOp6NO7JN5wSi1A5_31OzSnGk/s320/P1010966.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">traditional restaurant in Yazd</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We enjoy our evening meal in a traditional restaurant in Yazd - the Fahadan Mehr Hotel Restaurant - we are taken
by coach - our poor driver after such a long day already - he is a hero! There
is a parrot to welcome us!<br />
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Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-42278821680091459092016-12-08T06:00:00.000+00:002016-12-08T06:00:03.904+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - Persepolis and Naqsh-e Rostam<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5PXqaz0fKLUe54JTUxbnuJQVvH9MTxo6jBuEGckCEfo_y440UZkJg13ZFmt96T0O7HnfXh9YWyTDjZoAupunOw0db6T8DHmeir8wNShTXeZS8TQRngqnnOeJTJEEhAbFHR2ROVyV91mE/s1600/P1010776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5PXqaz0fKLUe54JTUxbnuJQVvH9MTxo6jBuEGckCEfo_y440UZkJg13ZFmt96T0O7HnfXh9YWyTDjZoAupunOw0db6T8DHmeir8wNShTXeZS8TQRngqnnOeJTJEEhAbFHR2ROVyV91mE/s400/P1010776.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">three of the four tombs at Naqsh-e Rostam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBf_eHfOPcBLAlmL7AXkhUbTZVivDZEBMVaGJ_ej_8plBKtsdrAKrA88lefYWlcIMYeazMRcz2tk97Py1UnCW5I4f8VNbwqqGni6KDkxB8Jrn4w1SZ5ZYh2KyoUqqWphTOHFe9HevL88U/s1600/P1010778.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBf_eHfOPcBLAlmL7AXkhUbTZVivDZEBMVaGJ_ej_8plBKtsdrAKrA88lefYWlcIMYeazMRcz2tk97Py1UnCW5I4f8VNbwqqGni6KDkxB8Jrn4w1SZ5ZYh2KyoUqqWphTOHFe9HevL88U/s320/P1010778.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">detail from panel at Naqsh-e Rostam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From <b>Pasargadae</b> we make our way to the <b>Naqsh-e Rostam</b> tombs
near <b>Persepolis </b>- four dramatic Achaemenid Empire (550-330BCE) tombs carved
high into the rock face above us (the name was given by locals - Naqsh means
picture and Rostam was a legendary Persian warrior). The tombs are probably
those of Darius II (died 405 BCE), Artaxerxes I (died 424 BCE), <b>Darius the Great</b> (died 484 BCE) and lastly, on the far right, Xerxes I (d. 465 BCE) or
Xerxes II (d. 423 BCE). Below the tombs are 7 beautifully carved stone panels from
the Sassanid period - (224 - 658 CE). These all need time - panels and tombs
alike - to really study and interpret their full magnitude. It is altogether an
incredible place, and one not to be missed on any tour. A pair of binoculars was
a definite asset here to more fully appreciate the detail high above us. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinuS9S8il3A9XIi1CbeLSUfJaCLjsMXIr1ykKBxMZGqBckm9X32VIQ-GVJUnu-vwiP4SXWDpZAMtHJzRu_5g8SyY14WRrVk7Tl4St1co9r9Ne9UKnf3sCryPmP1qZWo60_7E9h05pLqQQ/s1600/P1010784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinuS9S8il3A9XIi1CbeLSUfJaCLjsMXIr1ykKBxMZGqBckm9X32VIQ-GVJUnu-vwiP4SXWDpZAMtHJzRu_5g8SyY14WRrVk7Tl4St1co9r9Ne9UKnf3sCryPmP1qZWo60_7E9h05pLqQQ/s320/P1010784.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">12.6m high Zoroaster's shrine at Naqsh-e Rostam<br />
its function a mystery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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After an excellent buffet lunch at the Laneh-e Tavoos garden
restaurant nearby, we are soon off to <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Persepolis</b></st1:city>,
probably the most important ancient site in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region>
for all those interested in the history of the <st1:place w:st="on">Persian
Empire</st1:place>. Founded by <b>Darius the Great</b> around 515 BCE, the Achaemenid Kings received their subjects and generally
ran their empire from here. Then <b>Alexander the Great</b> came and burnt it all to
the ground. The ruins are still exceptional. </div>
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Of course by the time we arrived after all that we had
already seen today it was early afternoon - our visit lasted from 2.30 until 5.30 - some say early morning is best for the light, but we benefited from less crowding and a lovely red colour to the ruins as
the sun went down.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7dEAGvNQLecxiQ9yLAzO7ldyLstkCDxkTyfFb-s3dmnWTH3vj3HGqbdKZKHayfmtYKa6pWQLEnnJQ9B-JMRWOTRzP4cxkSDZmF3YOgcxqvMh3p0idPcQVA0KFwKJNjgicDdS0u_Djtlg/s1600/P1010812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7dEAGvNQLecxiQ9yLAzO7ldyLstkCDxkTyfFb-s3dmnWTH3vj3HGqbdKZKHayfmtYKa6pWQLEnnJQ9B-JMRWOTRzP4cxkSDZmF3YOgcxqvMh3p0idPcQVA0KFwKJNjgicDdS0u_Djtlg/s320/P1010812.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">detail at Persepolis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We were only allowed to take the tiniest bags into the site,
such as money and camera, and were advised to leave everything else in the
coach, or bags must otherwise be left with security at the entrance.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoReFc6N7Z5AaFbr6fyuZFISMtKSjvuOIhJfSQeDFZCfJPia1dxwb5xIelUb4WWFiCs18BDePMSiPPH_bfXdByJha8dmn0TgM_5xrAM0g8hnB4iD-KV3Xnx6oCOFwfSYBCrjc1E21ZwE/s1600/P1010827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoReFc6N7Z5AaFbr6fyuZFISMtKSjvuOIhJfSQeDFZCfJPia1dxwb5xIelUb4WWFiCs18BDePMSiPPH_bfXdByJha8dmn0TgM_5xrAM0g8hnB4iD-KV3Xnx6oCOFwfSYBCrjc1E21ZwE/s320/P1010827.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">part of the famous eastern Apadana staircase at Persepolis<br />
this side shows envoys from 23 subject nations bringing gifts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
There is a
good souvenir shop but I had left my money on the bus! And purchases have to be
made on leaving the site, not before. So the shop actually missed out on our
Rials which we are all itching to spend!<br />
<br />
<br />
And the toilets at the entrance were
pretty grim - even the local ladies and children thought so.</div>
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While most of the group went straight to the café on the
site at the end of the trip, six of us climbed up to view at close hand one of
the royal tombs high above the ruins. Not only was this interesting, but a
fabulous panoramic view of the site was our reward. There are four royal tombs
up here, two of which we can easily access, those of Artaxerxes II (d. 358 BCE)
and Artaxerxes III (d. 338 BCE). </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn1WY7lxTMYbKbOKVX3ZC0Na6FyDNOLZd9jMs_1GFbSnAZARnm4b2iWHjAWsUc-CVIWP4o9blCFzEIuKO5BEwWXUlcTfhslbRsg-8rwiu6KmrjRSXvB25_ZNs5w75lSOcWUEzbJ6WO7xw/s1600/P1010835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn1WY7lxTMYbKbOKVX3ZC0Na6FyDNOLZd9jMs_1GFbSnAZARnm4b2iWHjAWsUc-CVIWP4o9blCFzEIuKO5BEwWXUlcTfhslbRsg-8rwiu6KmrjRSXvB25_ZNs5w75lSOcWUEzbJ6WO7xw/s320/P1010835.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">panorama of Persepolis from royal tombs above</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The drinks at the café nestling below us were very expensive
when we clambered down to it, although it was a very pleasant place to sit and
relax at the end of a hot day. The toilets at this end of the site were even
grimmer than those in the car park at the entrance! But don't let that put any
one off visiting such an incredible site.</div>
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As we leave many of the Iranian families were parking up at
the side of the road and disappearing into the adjoining woods to picnic,
lighting fires, spreading blankets out and no doubt cooking kebabs - a firm
picnic favourite here. As I have said before, this is an Iranian passion. They
will picnic just about anywhere, and in many places there are special shaded
picnic shelters for the purpose. And they take all their litter away with them,
leaving the place as clean as they found it. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKKEmYONZdM3DPfwEiIPGnfyOZnAZkLSPwCTVmCBJV85lmh7k_CQO3sT1JtXtT3STx8eEiOqja-r7x5TrnPBnKsnqkzwS-fCAwpn6DK4A4C-PIToFjGFWW9qnOEYEnSuQR0sxGSbUOsU/s1600/P1010842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKKEmYONZdM3DPfwEiIPGnfyOZnAZkLSPwCTVmCBJV85lmh7k_CQO3sT1JtXtT3STx8eEiOqja-r7x5TrnPBnKsnqkzwS-fCAwpn6DK4A4C-PIToFjGFWW9qnOEYEnSuQR0sxGSbUOsU/s320/P1010842.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">an eagle griffin or Homa - auspicious bird - adopted<br />
as symbol of Iranian National airline. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It has been a very long day, but what a rewarding one! Tomorrow we are off on the long drive to Yazd for the famous Zoroastrian Towers of Silence, but first we will visit the Tomb of the Poet Saadi in its beautiful gardens and will be treated to some soulful singing from our guide...</div>
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For much further on information on Persepolis see:</div>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.iranchamber.com/history/persepolis/persepolis1.php">http://www.iranchamber.com/history/persepolis/persepolis1.php</a></div>
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<a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/114">http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/114</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ancient.eu/persepolis/">http://www.ancient.eu/persepolis/</a></div>
<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2Mv134k8LDCPCWex98iCMhyOcuuOUjcpqsH19NQT0zndg3VFaNz8oKHqFnitU6Jlkv9U8ISA-TLs9iUQm5Aidjbud4JrFHnRnQqDwnsEX3VhFqWXW2bylMKeQ0iW3qYP0FOkboqykTw/s1600/P1010845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2Mv134k8LDCPCWex98iCMhyOcuuOUjcpqsH19NQT0zndg3VFaNz8oKHqFnitU6Jlkv9U8ISA-TLs9iUQm5Aidjbud4JrFHnRnQqDwnsEX3VhFqWXW2bylMKeQ0iW3qYP0FOkboqykTw/s400/P1010845.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">heading home from Persepolis at day's end</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-75902245570609603872016-12-05T07:00:00.000+00:002016-12-05T07:00:11.968+00:00Iran - A Persian Odyssey - Pasargadae<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJH9udOGCdACSwV6BVbOjyU8GS5UUgQf9Y5PLuoys49OZjpmgsUnJG60mv2534lKh1w2LzW2_saUcfYFXV0VUlO8c_2bvC5SIVoOrwyAmKgYf_GzqpXpVFo_2vArBFWYPUAAyU3oLrWY/s1600/P1010741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJH9udOGCdACSwV6BVbOjyU8GS5UUgQf9Y5PLuoys49OZjpmgsUnJG60mv2534lKh1w2LzW2_saUcfYFXV0VUlO8c_2bvC5SIVoOrwyAmKgYf_GzqpXpVFo_2vArBFWYPUAAyU3oLrWY/s320/P1010741.JPG" width="287" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ice blocks for the fresh fish</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<st1:place w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:place>
at 6am still sleeps - except for the solitary man with his broom sweeping the
car park area at the front of the hotel. The roads are empty. A pink tinge
glows over the mountains in front of the hotel, below a clear blue sky. It is going to be another lovely day. I am breakfasting early - in glorious peace after the unseemly and disorganized scrimmage between
all the different tourist groups in the breakfast room yesterday. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city> - and indeed <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region> - is full of tourist groups</b>,</span> mostly
following much the same trail from South to North as ourselves - and mostly British,
German, French and Australian it seems. <span style="font-size: large;"><b>And it is easy to see why - with so many wonderful experiences on offer in this beautiful, friendly and safe country</b>.</span> But this early in the morning the man
who cooks the delicious filled omelettes to order is not yet at his station. Never mind - I
value the quiet. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgVs1bMoNYOFJhpt6jXsD397sMvJy_Bx6B8pCl9hS3hLWN4JpUHZIqigSt9NDIO_1kwybn7FUzQISpLrZob_1SmNNb_-h5nQmV7nQbUFPadUO1JgcwdY0y_UFelJu47VLg9Z267UUwiY/s1600/P1010867.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgVs1bMoNYOFJhpt6jXsD397sMvJy_Bx6B8pCl9hS3hLWN4JpUHZIqigSt9NDIO_1kwybn7FUzQISpLrZob_1SmNNb_-h5nQmV7nQbUFPadUO1JgcwdY0y_UFelJu47VLg9Z267UUwiY/s320/P1010867.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Quran Gate - new hotel looms above it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Five minutes before we are due to leave at 7.30 for <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Pasargadae</b></st1:city> I spill cough
mixture down the front of my clean shirt! I'm still suffering the after effects of a cold I picked up before leaving England. Thank goodness for lots of cold water
and the hotel hairdryer! All is restored without having to change my clothes.
We settle into our coach seats for the 100 km drive. I am happy to be given the
opportunity to observe the general environment around us on the trip - all full
of interest.</div>
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We are off today to the world heritage sites of <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Pasargadae</b></st1:city> and <st1:city w:st="on">Persepolis</st1:city>.
</div>
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The roads are still quiet - how different from the motorways
around my own home where they are already overcrowded nowadays at 5am! </div>
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Huge
blocks of ice are being delivered to a fish shop where they are cut up on the
pavement before taking in to pack around the piles of fresh fish. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvsg7wpHS7aH4ITQM8VID8rIJ6XuQbWwgvc9lN1zu27O8wmXGMB5Br7CeRUnDFM5f9gp6Gyp2ezx5R0szq2aPwCGba1qpWNyaX6UlJYHrr330JnqwG7-lvm0GVmJbDKo0OHd7L9RGChc/s1600/P1010875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvsg7wpHS7aH4ITQM8VID8rIJ6XuQbWwgvc9lN1zu27O8wmXGMB5Br7CeRUnDFM5f9gp6Gyp2ezx5R0szq2aPwCGba1qpWNyaX6UlJYHrr330JnqwG7-lvm0GVmJbDKo0OHd7L9RGChc/s320/P1010875.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">onion pickers</td></tr>
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On the
Northern outskirts of Shiraz we drive past the <b>Quran Gate</b> (Darvazeh-e Quran),
rebuilt in the 1950s by a local benefactor after the original 10th century gatehouse,
built by Karim Khan Zand to house a Quran to bless departing travellers, had to
make way for road expansion. This is next to the relative eyesore of the
massive new 5* Shiraz Hotel. So we make it out of town on to the main highway.
There is much money being spent here on new road construction. The mountainous
landscape is barren and sandy. </div>
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Soon we see the bad litter on the roadside and in the
laybys. This is such a contrast from the pristine litter free and clean town we
have left. I'm dismayed and disillusioned.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Z4-drCj5v3d2Oxp3PACnJAzhwDFBrAESYjH2sUv6Rlz2JThyG84IeZIS9PK3o7v9rXvZJJ7zEmqSJ9Dx9mlu8spL0UkkbiargFEE-1ymEgNOI5-30xccMWF0TGv8TWck9o9Rk7XC9qI/s1600/P1010873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Z4-drCj5v3d2Oxp3PACnJAzhwDFBrAESYjH2sUv6Rlz2JThyG84IeZIS9PK3o7v9rXvZJJ7zEmqSJ9Dx9mlu8spL0UkkbiargFEE-1ymEgNOI5-30xccMWF0TGv8TWck9o9Rk7XC9qI/s400/P1010873.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">nomads and goats</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhunwo3zoWpupPGdfdscJPCSLDWCDv1LuViQw09qfBqOjmvyKT9PCNlPaGgbY4sL_spQWRruq4_fUnimcLLZsXwR5ONHiDUPAi-f5Sed6WUOFNIx1aMIdpM_Cg7dXBQh5Rxtqu10Rw5j_4/s1600/P1010749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhunwo3zoWpupPGdfdscJPCSLDWCDv1LuViQw09qfBqOjmvyKT9PCNlPaGgbY4sL_spQWRruq4_fUnimcLLZsXwR5ONHiDUPAi-f5Sed6WUOFNIx1aMIdpM_Cg7dXBQh5Rxtqu10Rw5j_4/s320/P1010749.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">flock of Nomad goats on the road to Pasargadae</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Then we drive into an altogether more green and fertile area
- there are small pine tree plantations and green fields, workers sitting on
rugs by the side of the road picnicking, perhaps breakfasting before they start
work, picking the tomatoes which are ripe and bright red and truly delicious.
Other crops include maize, sunflowers, sugar beet, cotton, cabbages, sack loads of
onions and more. There is also wheat, being harvested by a small old combine
harvester. The herds of goats find plenty left on the picked fields. A web of
irrigation channels maintains the water supply to the crops but the river
alongside the road is totally dry. Huge water melons are being sold out of the
back of small lorries at the side of the road, small tents nearby which
presumably provided overnight camping for the vendors. Four professional
looking cyclists stop by the side of the road - a very rare sight indeed on
these open main roads. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzTGtnArh22Hm10P-GBAiPk7WeJnp3EE3JZWYM9WvmSbug9S55yhdkfNjF8bD3FUwgagDlwqqBex2ZVOlZpv7BQwe3Y8RfGxX-rahuiRLgBno08H4BpCmJGY3W166pSY9qfIIvJK9z3T0/s1600/P1010774.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzTGtnArh22Hm10P-GBAiPk7WeJnp3EE3JZWYM9WvmSbug9S55yhdkfNjF8bD3FUwgagDlwqqBex2ZVOlZpv7BQwe3Y8RfGxX-rahuiRLgBno08H4BpCmJGY3W166pSY9qfIIvJK9z3T0/s400/P1010774.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">camel for the tourists at Pasargadae</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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A large flock of sheep or goats is being herded along
the side of the road by nomads, the settlements of khaki tents visible along
the way. Our guide tells me that the government are trying to settle these
nomadic tribes into more permanent accommodation but with limited success apparently. </div>
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The mountain range here reminds me very much of the South
East Turkey mountains close to the Syrian border which we visited back in 2013 on our <a href="http://wisdomoftolerance.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/our-pilgrimage-to-south-east-turkey.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Turkish pilgrimage</a>.</div>
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We pass close to the <b>Sivand Dam</b>, started in 2007, the cause
of much <a href="http://www.reuters.com/article/us-iran-cyrus-dam-idUSBLA74268320071003" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">controversy and concern</a> over its possible effects on the great monuments
of <st1:city w:st="on">Pasargadae</st1:city> and <st1:city w:st="on">Persepolis</st1:city>,
due to worries over flooding of these precious sites and also the effect of the
increased humidity from the reservoir on
the life of the remains, particularly at <st1:city w:st="on">Pasargadae</st1:city>.
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4wGnHJC7dHeRvwvvNNJla2g5gDQrK3q6KWmZzoODhavupjSYXtyn9wd02v0V7mPzJ8pSYTYtLNlm1wAPIU0Wbe63oALJPKw9dBxNJQI8YCdmRI1ummCjPlcaLI7ysAk-6nUwecCCXB0/s1600/P1010760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4wGnHJC7dHeRvwvvNNJla2g5gDQrK3q6KWmZzoODhavupjSYXtyn9wd02v0V7mPzJ8pSYTYtLNlm1wAPIU0Wbe63oALJPKw9dBxNJQI8YCdmRI1ummCjPlcaLI7ysAk-6nUwecCCXB0/s320/P1010760.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">relief detail at Pasargadae</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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So we arrive at the UNESCO World Heritage site of the
ancient Persian city of <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Pasargadae</b></st1:city>
- capital of the Achaemenid Empire under <b>Cyrus the Great</b> who had ordered its construction (559–530 BC) and where he
is buried. The coach turns down a long tree lined avenue off the main road past
a restaurant of same name, the road lined with pictures of martyrs from the
Iran Iraq war. </div>
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This is a vast area of which little remains - it would have
been very beautiful with irrigated gardens full of roses and trees and
nightingales. Again I am reminded of the nightingales as we walked up to the
monastery in <st1:place w:st="on">SE Turkey</st1:place> close to the Syrian border in 2013. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB_z-2oAIEIUEf63C_g6cpwqPS_I64bZnH4wYPJ9PrkDByEAr5-jf4TlDg7l72tjK1_GPX9KUYexDOYVGHREMMhdhnnzBG9npI88b3kB-VCrEmNnm3mEw1tYwwwuswqVpay8rEVHHYGkE/s1600/P1010763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB_z-2oAIEIUEf63C_g6cpwqPS_I64bZnH4wYPJ9PrkDByEAr5-jf4TlDg7l72tjK1_GPX9KUYexDOYVGHREMMhdhnnzBG9npI88b3kB-VCrEmNnm3mEw1tYwwwuswqVpay8rEVHHYGkE/s320/P1010763.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">archaelogists at work Private Palace Pasargadae</td></tr>
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We start with the gate house - and finish with the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Private</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Palace</st1:placetype></st1:place>, where archaeologists are hard at
work. Then we make our way to what in the distance looks like a cement factory.
It turns out to be what is locally known as Solomon's Prison - it seems no one
knows its true purpose. There are a few theories including that it may be the
tomb of Cambyses I father of <b>Cyrus the Great</b>.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lRW_c-d-BlHaZS0re4zNrJudlMNaNyn2y6sknT-MVrlMitiK4oxOMqXbTz-1VgHaIP5VBSJoD3UkwGs0HpTKU8Aa-0LU_bADrqbNLG2p5m2NfS-ZANh1ByjhEHWm3vgR1EPScVwIJAM/s1600/P1010766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lRW_c-d-BlHaZS0re4zNrJudlMNaNyn2y6sknT-MVrlMitiK4oxOMqXbTz-1VgHaIP5VBSJoD3UkwGs0HpTKU8Aa-0LU_bADrqbNLG2p5m2NfS-ZANh1ByjhEHWm3vgR1EPScVwIJAM/s320/P1010766.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solomon's Prison</td></tr>
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Encased in clever coloured scaffolding to blend in to its
surroundings, plenty of small birds have made their home here but the guide
cannot name them. Nearly 500 species of bird have been identified in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region> 1971 Ramsar Convention signed in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region> at Ramsar specifically
for Wetlands conservation and the protection of birdlife but they haven't
seemingly done very much lately to support its aims. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKtsgHba565TAUVMHCXk8tBsWo9pllUEbvpXCrCKXNKNccKAD3iEv20CwGsdE_2EU6ghgBmpwKOiC2qsnpRelMgYGDLUpb1yoMKSft9RPM55Ibt7h8QXxPFhh0Znw7y38ZexCpb_yJHeE/s1600/P1010767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKtsgHba565TAUVMHCXk8tBsWo9pllUEbvpXCrCKXNKNccKAD3iEv20CwGsdE_2EU6ghgBmpwKOiC2qsnpRelMgYGDLUpb1yoMKSft9RPM55Ibt7h8QXxPFhh0Znw7y38ZexCpb_yJHeE/s320/P1010767.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the citadel at Pasargadae</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We then make our way by coach to the citadel fortification
on the top of the hill. This would have been similar to the Athenian Acropolis in
its structure and position. A few of us sprint up to the top for the views. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1Yf4a7CsOkTkZnA6agpMfOCWZiDsktDg_Z73_wq66JhRx1yzdfhJD1O-qz6xK33x5YrDFMJcSlI1u7Xp59Ow-3uAS_DZbAcxUSTcmL5yvYnSrmJ1xgPDszwnaIuKm1MXx8yBlaNA2Tg/s1600/P1010769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1Yf4a7CsOkTkZnA6agpMfOCWZiDsktDg_Z73_wq66JhRx1yzdfhJD1O-qz6xK33x5YrDFMJcSlI1u7Xp59Ow-3uAS_DZbAcxUSTcmL5yvYnSrmJ1xgPDszwnaIuKm1MXx8yBlaNA2Tg/s400/P1010769.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tomb of Cyrus the Great at Pasargadae</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Our final stop here is to look more closely at the tomb of <b>Cyrus
the Great</b>. During our visit to <st1:place w:st="on">Iran</st1:place>
there were <a href="http://theiranproject.com/blog/2016/11/01/cyrus-great-rise-nationalistic-fervor-iran/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">protests</a> at the Cyrus monument; but we managed to avoid them.</div>
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We leave the site past the Caravanserai of Mozaffari, built during the short lived Mozaffari dynasty 1314-1393 set up by a
commander from the Mongol army who seized control over central <st1:country-region w:st="on">Iran</st1:country-region>. </div>
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There is more detailed archaeological info to be found <a href="http://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/Pasargadae" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">online</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKli-L_oPnE2mBNmRwQs1EAHaNPTe5DF9QGdFRGGhsASJyS1IQLI-9YGqH6WDNBc49hSRq_ekppAxitaadFdLrRYxcyaN1N27NBDDeeRTz-0DK0sKrJwRlqARhukUhD1fUXwak6SnKOZg/s1600/P1010771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKli-L_oPnE2mBNmRwQs1EAHaNPTe5DF9QGdFRGGhsASJyS1IQLI-9YGqH6WDNBc49hSRq_ekppAxitaadFdLrRYxcyaN1N27NBDDeeRTz-0DK0sKrJwRlqARhukUhD1fUXwak6SnKOZg/s320/P1010771.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">picnic set up in the shade at Pasargadae</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-42525858475435912822016-12-02T07:00:00.000+00:002016-12-02T10:13:32.458+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - Shiraz contd. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrBz-5PIx1aRp0FVMITYh6342ShhBFv_F5yGWXr66CYUaPQ6wmvrhyOIv5GuZFMM39_FheZvKeFtn0LGBwBrezf0MUUU5Fv0QKiBZNxJlZEa1aihiePlF076yeve0tFIVh_RHEclt4t8M/s1600/P1010716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrBz-5PIx1aRp0FVMITYh6342ShhBFv_F5yGWXr66CYUaPQ6wmvrhyOIv5GuZFMM39_FheZvKeFtn0LGBwBrezf0MUUU5Fv0QKiBZNxJlZEa1aihiePlF076yeve0tFIVh_RHEclt4t8M/s400/P1010716.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">we walk through Shiraz to the Citadel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeU9FYIGFwEjlSnMAIXIRZwRbMe3BnfiEy8s8MCq8OMyb_-Qxdvo9f3rRVZ96c0wCpm7TSczJ4Cet2TfVRKL0v5MDkjOHZVMFq5RZ7dsMB7DCMg924Aq4ta9SwcS-fthiRE3yY4jwvFTw/s1600/P1010717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeU9FYIGFwEjlSnMAIXIRZwRbMe3BnfiEy8s8MCq8OMyb_-Qxdvo9f3rRVZ96c0wCpm7TSczJ4Cet2TfVRKL0v5MDkjOHZVMFq5RZ7dsMB7DCMg924Aq4ta9SwcS-fthiRE3yY4jwvFTw/s320/P1010717.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Citadel Shiraz</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After lunch on our first full day in <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Shiraz</b></st1:city>, we walk through the streets to the eighteenth century Citadel fortification <b>Arg-e Karim Khan Zand</b> and its bath house. The 15m towers at the four corners have pretty brick patterning and inside can be found the old bathhouse, pleasant central gardens, and a museum.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw_b35rH4NBHJLY47yzSm-o1muVM8dSYlO5nXPY03u4B8lYlRDk9op9GZVhPU9WZUTVmPI1pr0R8_LKxoel5ZaBR4kg7GfOdvF1UIyazIhI6qWQx0n0m5zK6t1J3AaXiIxRcyMe3nCy90/s1600/P1010720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw_b35rH4NBHJLY47yzSm-o1muVM8dSYlO5nXPY03u4B8lYlRDk9op9GZVhPU9WZUTVmPI1pr0R8_LKxoel5ZaBR4kg7GfOdvF1UIyazIhI6qWQx0n0m5zK6t1J3AaXiIxRcyMe3nCy90/s320/P1010720.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixmLWnEJOeSl6rHELxHIjg24uw3v-jj6t_XcuM2qGNATyqWbw9PaJFQvzL8t33YA_DqhgWDUmIVJOvLUF_Mh0sC3kutLaI-tkE7T3a-GBvjRS11yoan67ud31vG8PuaHWbwjCLFhUxKLw/s1600/P1010722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixmLWnEJOeSl6rHELxHIjg24uw3v-jj6t_XcuM2qGNATyqWbw9PaJFQvzL8t33YA_DqhgWDUmIVJOvLUF_Mh0sC3kutLaI-tkE7T3a-GBvjRS11yoan67ud31vG8PuaHWbwjCLFhUxKLw/s640/P1010722.JPG" width="640" /></a>The huge tiled panel over the entrance shows the
famous Persian warrior Rostam fighting the white devil Deev, from the long epic
poem <b>Shahnameh</b> written by the Persian eleventh century poet <b>Ferdowski</b>. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidT6WNPbtXL3I6jAuBAGBDgAmIHmsPe-RCFI8fLI5Spc9bGc72yNkUuiq9QVcJAvv1rD_egJsSGEd4frlu9ss3Mme5TRpJX6SzaQ2V_CMLCKMf2AMrq7ccqFv9s0R88T5OwDw6UcJ6CM/s1600/P1010728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidT6WNPbtXL3I6jAuBAGBDgAmIHmsPe-RCFI8fLI5Spc9bGc72yNkUuiq9QVcJAvv1rD_egJsSGEd4frlu9ss3Mme5TRpJX6SzaQ2V_CMLCKMf2AMrq7ccqFv9s0R88T5OwDw6UcJ6CM/s320/P1010728.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our first picnic and gorgeous Iranian cakes</td></tr>
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<b>Picnicking</b> is an Iranian institution and they have perfected
it to an art form. Everywhere we travel we see families picnicking - by the
side of the road, in gardens, at special picnic sites, at viewpoints, even in
car parks. The blankets are spread out, shoes left at the edges, and family
groups kneel and sit cross legged enjoying this most sociable of gatherings. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4K1udSNpsd1HGdJaG04FaWrBzXx-6Uhi6hOUa8LvbiF_8GV4cVSD-9NH_tGne_oBjW_SQtXAt4KXx48pyuW6X7C88axiw8cqjEOcFiZV-r6X25crsYpHUkBuevSOhsxkcQKHkLuPqMlo/s1600/P1010731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4K1udSNpsd1HGdJaG04FaWrBzXx-6Uhi6hOUa8LvbiF_8GV4cVSD-9NH_tGne_oBjW_SQtXAt4KXx48pyuW6X7C88axiw8cqjEOcFiZV-r6X25crsYpHUkBuevSOhsxkcQKHkLuPqMlo/s320/P1010731.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">all we get to see of the church of<br />
Simon the Zealot</td></tr>
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After coming out of the citadel we are to experience the
first of many picnics back at the coach. We soon discover that the tour buses,
guides and drivers are all geared up for this always welcome refreshment. They
invariably produced delicious local cakes and biscuits to supplement the coffee
and tea served from large thermos flasks replenished daily at the hotels. </div>
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Suitably refreshed, we can only walk past and glimpse the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">church</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on"><b>Simon</b></st1:placename></st1:place><b> the Zealot.</b> Simon was martyred in <st1:place w:st="on">Iran</st1:place>,
and the church is apparently open for all on Sundays, but not at other times it
seems. There is also a Zoroastrian fire temple and an Armenian Christian Church
in <st1:place w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:place>, but
again access is not straightforward. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkY60DYfFvhWplf-050igp3a_jd0SY5-fG4I9PPTOx9kfLiPh01l-KQuoo-AF0upjjK5rnsEqm_7GA9D1H5fBk60HhfutNcmHyu2Ywi3WsNietcXh0_ZW-Cz5dWHuEdlUreG1sCrfA4s/s1600/P1010734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkY60DYfFvhWplf-050igp3a_jd0SY5-fG4I9PPTOx9kfLiPh01l-KQuoo-AF0upjjK5rnsEqm_7GA9D1H5fBk60HhfutNcmHyu2Ywi3WsNietcXh0_ZW-Cz5dWHuEdlUreG1sCrfA4s/s320/P1010734.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">steps lead up to the Tomb of Hafeiah</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Our final visit of the day is to the <b>Tomb of Hafeziah</b>, the
much loved fourteenth century Shirazi love poet. The tomb is beneath an
octagonal kiosk surrounded by pleasant gardens, and is much visited by Iranian
families and tourists alike. The Iranians love poetry and revere their own
poets, often able to quote large passages from the best known works. </div>
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As we leave we are approached by a man with a canary - for a
small sum, the canary will randomly pick a card from a collection - the chosen
couplet from Hafez's anthology <i>The Divan</i>,
is a charming alternative to our horoscope. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw0Jz1VNdNKjN_9uMKufadpBRABSPGWAo8-MMzjPXv2xlVGq0yhY1cGMRcZtUt6U_snVrJRPPQqFDPWIK0FDd0-QHmD9F6Y4HkygYcILTdw6AIoSbOjm2W1Lba9XGsDB3YRH6NUEQEAe4/s1600/P1010738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw0Jz1VNdNKjN_9uMKufadpBRABSPGWAo8-MMzjPXv2xlVGq0yhY1cGMRcZtUt6U_snVrJRPPQqFDPWIK0FDd0-QHmD9F6Y4HkygYcILTdw6AIoSbOjm2W1Lba9XGsDB3YRH6NUEQEAe4/s320/P1010738.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">fortune telling budgie</td></tr>
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Supper tonight is at Shatar Abbas One - they were making bread
and pastries as we went in. As a result the bread was lovely and fresh. The
veggie option was a plate of sliced fried peppers which was quite unimaginative
- the others had the usual meat kebabs. Tea was a very long time coming after
the meal. </div>
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Some of us walk back through the extensive <st1:place w:st="on"><b><st1:placename w:st="on">Azadi</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Park</st1:placetype></b></st1:place>
to our hotel. Even late at night it is relaxed and friendly with quite young
families strolling, and young men playing board games at tables. It has been a
very pleasant first day and introduction to this incredible country. And each
day seems to be better than the last. </div>
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Tomorrow we will visit <b>Persepolis.</b></div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-83777979287233384872016-11-29T07:30:00.000+00:002016-11-29T10:06:20.915+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - a day in Shiraz<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24tZqht2Ja8hbEsJuG9WUW9u2O7EYWcBp1vWe_ifKZQpg3dqHtjE2wmGJ3-3E249Ks5zwNlOJ8PDdl0sGKGy_Uh-wP0dRToTMDCaDfab9DlDD_P8mLmkWHlnWJdpUyQBSglfl566xi5o/s1600/P1010682.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24tZqht2Ja8hbEsJuG9WUW9u2O7EYWcBp1vWe_ifKZQpg3dqHtjE2wmGJ3-3E249Ks5zwNlOJ8PDdl0sGKGy_Uh-wP0dRToTMDCaDfab9DlDD_P8mLmkWHlnWJdpUyQBSglfl566xi5o/s320/P1010682.JPG" width="158" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the mosque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OmtLyAHOOvGi8Ktli5Od-s_X0XuCpdcHER_E7g8Naxk3Q34CQaOiuyjfcpI2noX6EF5-3PC8aGl0F2SRxQ0V3WENvu7eu2PKIbX2vU1nYWvSMmf1p3GwoOtuCEg39XiRxc-PQOI4YiQ/s1600/P1010690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-OmtLyAHOOvGi8Ktli5Od-s_X0XuCpdcHER_E7g8Naxk3Q34CQaOiuyjfcpI2noX6EF5-3PC8aGl0F2SRxQ0V3WENvu7eu2PKIbX2vU1nYWvSMmf1p3GwoOtuCEg39XiRxc-PQOI4YiQ/s320/P1010690.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">stunning stained glass winter prayer hall<br />
at Nasir-al-Molk mosque </td></tr>
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The first thing I notice from the coach as we drive through <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Shiraz</b></st1:city> is how clean the
streets are - swept and hosed regularly. Many days later in <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city> I see many men in high viz vests who
tour the streets on bicycles and motor bikes with besom brooms and continually
sweep where needed. Sadly the main roads between the towns are a very different
story, strewn sometimes with quite disgraceful litter. But who are we to talk
in the <st1:country-region w:st="on">UK</st1:country-region>?
Litter seems to be a global scourge, and one which I find deeply depressing. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9tzqDqDCc1xoinTomAV2jH7mgkiV8V6QNA5ujAcg6ipQQSr28a847V0r_z6cL1TJelVcFmeZpWbUMtGYOVXpFIVcrNDWfw1lnWqKdelJ6Wkq1-F8lreBbOA19x1InK_cHAoY_tjA71I/s1600/P1010695.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9tzqDqDCc1xoinTomAV2jH7mgkiV8V6QNA5ujAcg6ipQQSr28a847V0r_z6cL1TJelVcFmeZpWbUMtGYOVXpFIVcrNDWfw1lnWqKdelJ6Wkq1-F8lreBbOA19x1InK_cHAoY_tjA71I/s320/P1010695.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">winter prayer hall Nasir-al-Molk mosque</td></tr>
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<st1:city w:st="on"><b>Shiraz</b></st1:city>
is surrounded by mountains - looking very stark from my hotel window, dotted
with clusters of conifers. The traffic is bad - and seems somewhat chaotic with
little lane discipline - in fact it looks a bit of a free for all! White cars
predominate. The Ayatollah Khomeini looks down upon us from street posters
everywhere! Over the years since the revolution his image has increasingly changed
from severe to benign, the black beard increasingly portrayed as white and his
face softer, even slightly smiling. Everyone we meet seems very friendly and
full of smiles. <st1:city w:st="on"></st1:city><st1:city w:st="on"></st1:city><st1:city w:st="on"></st1:city><st1:city w:st="on"></st1:city></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSfL5KmX3qncSwvU8qKeZxFR24WqQVlQErmT_6q7OHgtmWObJnrlACg2hudzBnE5k_wCfbGoHq37UAaWtb8zxTVAX0VarNuhGxft9Ra-zNuGaTas5NgRawpQgEnDWXYSVTCcMMwDk7mzA/s1600/P1010699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSfL5KmX3qncSwvU8qKeZxFR24WqQVlQErmT_6q7OHgtmWObJnrlACg2hudzBnE5k_wCfbGoHq37UAaWtb8zxTVAX0VarNuhGxft9Ra-zNuGaTas5NgRawpQgEnDWXYSVTCcMMwDk7mzA/s320/P1010699.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mihrab at Nasir-al-Molk mosque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We pass the citadel which we will visit later in the day. It
is hot, but a dry heat so not so uncomfortable. In fact I am very happy with
it. Roundabouts look very pretty and well tended, often decorated with neat
rows of ornamental cabbages, which are propagated at the <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city> municipal nurseries in the gardens at
the Law Faculty of the University. </div>
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We walk through the <b>Vakil bazaar</b>. Vakil means "regent",
the bazaar built as it was by Karim Khan, regent to the last Safavids
(1501-1736), their rule reflected in the magnificence and wealth of the
stunning architecture we later enjoy in <st1:place w:st="on">Esfahan</st1:place>.
Soon we arrive at the </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-wnIQoWH6cDOki7k3YQiNf0bqH0F4wg33XrqIf6RZYG1xf0pV1Ubh9zkeiy5xCBm3318yr6U1o34TiJzCg_nQc8kX8PGvANBwV_uLICSVLEQSk1NFMLLjD4jBppvdDbK1a2gt1iuO9CA/s1600/P1010700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-wnIQoWH6cDOki7k3YQiNf0bqH0F4wg33XrqIf6RZYG1xf0pV1Ubh9zkeiy5xCBm3318yr6U1o34TiJzCg_nQc8kX8PGvANBwV_uLICSVLEQSk1NFMLLjD4jBppvdDbK1a2gt1iuO9CA/s320/P1010700.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the cow well</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Masjed-e
Nasir-al-Molk,</span></b> a very charming nineteenth century mosque, said to be one of the
most elegant and photographed mosques in <st1:place w:st="on">Southern Iran</st1:place>.
The deep blue tiling is wonderful, the stone cable-spiral columns most
imposing, the colourful stained glass in the winter prayer hall playing
beautiful patterns down on to the floor. We also see there, just off the
opposite prayer hall, the cow well, where cows walked downhill to raise the
water. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD74_vHbjqBzYHc5Y-Zid0ErDjJCAXJF_QERaQJta_kwj55nBp3Jsk5OoaCPzUO0lNri35EGybfkM6zO9QXyNWrJqrz9m1ZL1iTsRShNzKM3t9lEYrJiQm8IoYHnHfhifttR0R1khNGFk/s1600/P1010693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD74_vHbjqBzYHc5Y-Zid0ErDjJCAXJF_QERaQJta_kwj55nBp3Jsk5OoaCPzUO0lNri35EGybfkM6zO9QXyNWrJqrz9m1ZL1iTsRShNzKM3t9lEYrJiQm8IoYHnHfhifttR0R1khNGFk/s400/P1010693.JPG" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the winter prayer hall Masjed <br />
Nasir-al-Molk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So back along the streets, back through the bazaar to lunch,
at the Sharzeh Traditional Restaurant in <st1:street w:st="on">Vakil Street</st1:street>; as with so many Iranian
restaurants it seems, this is downstairs, and is very popular with locals.
There is a renowned salad bar with amazing spread, which would have satisfied
me for lunch - but they make me a huge plate of stir fried vegetables - very
tasty but just too much and a little boring after a while. Nevertheless a good
place to eat. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmT2aYQYzdNldCOd4B6mSIWCn1Gngr1WWUbKuq06pCPGXroa5lI5PceeODeH0ROEwxWqdPPpFf3mXwNuan2GjXl5wx0U1SWP3NvqusJrYO5waiJ9HFGofdP24i0Q23wZg-ghukWoy4q_8/s1600/P1010715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmT2aYQYzdNldCOd4B6mSIWCn1Gngr1WWUbKuq06pCPGXroa5lI5PceeODeH0ROEwxWqdPPpFf3mXwNuan2GjXl5wx0U1SWP3NvqusJrYO5waiJ9HFGofdP24i0Q23wZg-ghukWoy4q_8/s400/P1010715.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">plates in the bazaar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-41748759029696050602016-11-26T09:38:00.000+00:002016-11-28T15:02:00.387+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey - we arrive in Shiraz<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Wednesday 19th October;</b> the day our trip to <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Iran</b></st1:place>
with McCabe Travel begins. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizhiHN_wdyTpGPqP3iqnJAawNLDbTVYVHQsCTC7nHB5c7POjnPqWl9BjB92VMRyj1M1qZVfQ6FE2Gv5S7YwRzezhQ2iFCBXJJBKm0muIazMCgy0Gb2H1ux-BHe-vuGvIwJF95r9Gsldw/s1600/P1010701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizhiHN_wdyTpGPqP3iqnJAawNLDbTVYVHQsCTC7nHB5c7POjnPqWl9BjB92VMRyj1M1qZVfQ6FE2Gv5S7YwRzezhQ2iFCBXJJBKm0muIazMCgy0Gb2H1ux-BHe-vuGvIwJF95r9Gsldw/s320/P1010701.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">street scene Shiraz </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQuxATZl1FH6wCiGgBetBwFs_zHQBJk7KNKKz087mNjKd2uEJAV7q8wXU0LF3ORQqLvKd_DU2RV-XRxD9tCLG2g-ebhTx5TtoQkQ5f5aUfqfmfDPUaXNGYHx1qS4UM0Fq7DFitKFbu7mo/s1600/P1010703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQuxATZl1FH6wCiGgBetBwFs_zHQBJk7KNKKz087mNjKd2uEJAV7q8wXU0LF3ORQqLvKd_DU2RV-XRxD9tCLG2g-ebhTx5TtoQkQ5f5aUfqfmfDPUaXNGYHx1qS4UM0Fq7DFitKFbu7mo/s320/P1010703.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tobacco for sale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We have been looking forward to this with eager
anticipation for so long. The ladies of our 20 strong group have been agonizing
for weeks over what they can wear - to make sure they comply with the strict
hijab rules imposed by the <b>Islamic Republic of Iran.</b> We all have our varied and
colourful headscarves, with a mix of tunic dresses, long shirts and trousers,
the idea being that arms and legs must be covered, and body contours not
accentuated in figure hugging clothes. I am comfortable in a mixture of my
sons' longer shirts and my own mid-thigh to knee length long sleeved tunic
dresses over a mixture of baggy cotton trousers I bought in Cambodia a couple
of years ago and a pair of denim jeans. Others wear Indian style tunics and
trousers in the Salwar Kameez style or similar and look smarter than any of the
rest of us. The men are lucky - short sleeved T shirts and jeans seem
acceptable everywhere - although sleeveless T shirts would not be normally
allowed in mosques for example.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<st1:city w:st="on"></st1:city></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFXJ-ugyAVk9SjK_FsEDPP3a3JfmffVWooUceZ6zESiL9aX_JtRijdNQMoM7fjylLw0Q_QXEi027DyO8uort09Ut7Zl1vSW1p_8RM8OmKhIuL3pK-YY56HvZZppL_7KVVzT5itQL1gQDc/s1600/P1010704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFXJ-ugyAVk9SjK_FsEDPP3a3JfmffVWooUceZ6zESiL9aX_JtRijdNQMoM7fjylLw0Q_QXEi027DyO8uort09Ut7Zl1vSW1p_8RM8OmKhIuL3pK-YY56HvZZppL_7KVVzT5itQL1gQDc/s320/P1010704.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">street scene Shiraz</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
British Airways have only just announced a resumption of
direct flights so we go by Turkish Airlines from Heathrow to <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city>
with a change in <st1:place w:st="on">Istanbul</st1:place>
- an overall travel time of about 10 hours. <st1:city w:st="on">London</st1:city>
is three and a half ahead of <st1:city w:st="on">Tehran</st1:city>.
Although the journey seems long and tedious in no way can this be blamed on
Turkish Airlines who look after us very well. The veggie option is excellent on
both planes and I enjoy watching Maggie Smith in Alan Bennett's The Lady in the
Van - an excellent film which helps while away some of the time. Coming through
customs at Shiraz airport is somewhat chaotic with little orderly queuing - but
we all get through the security here eventually, are met by our superb guide
Ali and are soon introduced to our equally splendid - and incredibly handsome
driver Mori. </div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA855D-dkqkrTATVhHP-7ifqMVUVYBZK5mSikagge0S47zNHGXh8IfUP_YtA85qRcv5HaJfdwgd6aOpXfRK55u4C6IrZWx5QLX-JNz5Dbwk3KslJiJey3_8V7UsRoaZx3HvU5jBiJJQyI/s1600/P1010714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA855D-dkqkrTATVhHP-7ifqMVUVYBZK5mSikagge0S47zNHGXh8IfUP_YtA85qRcv5HaJfdwgd6aOpXfRK55u4C6IrZWx5QLX-JNz5Dbwk3KslJiJey3_8V7UsRoaZx3HvU5jBiJJQyI/s320/P1010714.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">shiraz bazaar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Driving through the streets of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><b>Shiraz</b></st1:place></st1:city> at midnight there are many pavement
shops, still very active at this late hour. We finally arrive at our hotel Homa
in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><b>Shiraz</b></st1:place></st1:city> at 1
am - all incredibly travel weary - for a short sleep before being up again at
7am for breakfast, an introductory group meeting and off at 10.30 in the coach
for a city tour. And so much to see in the days ahead as we explore <b>Shiraz</b> before traveling Northwards over eleven days via Persepolis to Yazd, Isfahan, Kashan and Tehran, and seeing much more besides along the way. </div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-53903335903362538202016-11-02T17:00:00.000+00:002016-11-30T16:40:32.300+00:00Iran: A Persian Odyssey<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrmouUDw0DxGXWnEIyY3JS440Lj6k66jG6VGybFHUEZNfEVS_uNukmj1hJRclIJ0rXT_pafmDmlO9IB3nMpaeJdt3mf_TeI73_hYS5_Be4454usDvOM2c-ruXoEPEYSgfBjTZBhqphOos/s1600/P1010709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrmouUDw0DxGXWnEIyY3JS440Lj6k66jG6VGybFHUEZNfEVS_uNukmj1hJRclIJ0rXT_pafmDmlO9IB3nMpaeJdt3mf_TeI73_hYS5_Be4454usDvOM2c-ruXoEPEYSgfBjTZBhqphOos/s320/P1010709.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmOnl4oQ_ILiFZ_BCbjy8N0hcurjLIUHIpushjSJzJk2wy42ci0Pk4zEtwQU1Kv-PkYHo2lx4AhYkRX_nk1OhSzvrBGxTugZ98XGVza9-J7AFArbf9vvPcWo_laJbFRuUORUZ-qoAeJ8E/s1600/P1020504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmOnl4oQ_ILiFZ_BCbjy8N0hcurjLIUHIpushjSJzJk2wy42ci0Pk4zEtwQU1Kv-PkYHo2lx4AhYkRX_nk1OhSzvrBGxTugZ98XGVza9-J7AFArbf9vvPcWo_laJbFRuUORUZ-qoAeJ8E/s320/P1020504.JPG" width="240" /></a>I have just returned from an amazing trip to <b>Iran</b>, touring from <b>Shiraz</b> in the South to <b>Tehran</b> in the North via <b>Yazd</b>, <b>Esfahan</b> (surely one of the most beautiful cities in the world), and <b>Kashan</b>, seeing wonderful sights all along the way. Watch this space as I hope to begin posting a detailed blog of my experiences and share many photos before too long. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwa7hPA80oZBB-Nx39Ov4Kw6vc5lpsakz6M2hV3EftjyvQaEmY2EO6wz_1YsGAlHvasRVbxolNGZTIHZYeI3QCqlwcs7fW0hFJacPNgYM-xf9mRNteAkwJlKoeD00vhdfBVvGgUCU8nM/s1600/P1010774.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwa7hPA80oZBB-Nx39Ov4Kw6vc5lpsakz6M2hV3EftjyvQaEmY2EO6wz_1YsGAlHvasRVbxolNGZTIHZYeI3QCqlwcs7fW0hFJacPNgYM-xf9mRNteAkwJlKoeD00vhdfBVvGgUCU8nM/s320/P1010774.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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<br />Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-56132214194033122962016-01-26T07:30:00.000+00:002016-01-26T07:30:00.199+00:00Last Day in Bahir Dar - our pilgrimage draws to a close<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeoNJEiFUEfQm2SAsV0wlwmAImSBe1nCdEkVHTFPpXfI10FIGiR_u6AU9-Njo-ehBCxxzMxSqZ9_LqChXaG95bPMYd1CGNqDJi08W1T3vkUTaF6ejZDm8-BpehsF561dZxcZTKH8zswF0/s1600/P1100529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeoNJEiFUEfQm2SAsV0wlwmAImSBe1nCdEkVHTFPpXfI10FIGiR_u6AU9-Njo-ehBCxxzMxSqZ9_LqChXaG95bPMYd1CGNqDJi08W1T3vkUTaF6ejZDm8-BpehsF561dZxcZTKH8zswF0/s320/P1100529.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the boat display on Lake Tana outside our hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">This is our last day and we
fly back to <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Addis Ababa</st1:place></st1:city>
at lunchtime. But first we have the morning for a little last minute savouring
of the culture of <b>Bahir Dar</b>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">It is a big day in <b>Bahir Dar</b>.
The Amhara National Democratic Movement (ANDM) are <a href="http://www.ebc.et/web/ennews/-/andm-capable-of-repeating-history-by-defeating-poverty-demeke" target="_blank">celebrating</a> the 35th
anniversary of their foundation with a variety of proceedings and celebrations
and the closing ceremony will be held in this town, capital of the Amhara region.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Vo5CgAk5nRUZR7brO7g4-Il4R3KkUXDPNIjNUhvU-AtT76nfMue2h8PITOnlOn2lUCsX81jUMjCS1P0Njh4i6Tuu_IAm_sAaYSGAhWe_PpLtn2yJ42_mfwuDpZCgIPk1c2m8PDHji9A/s1600/P1100530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Vo5CgAk5nRUZR7brO7g4-Il4R3KkUXDPNIjNUhvU-AtT76nfMue2h8PITOnlOn2lUCsX81jUMjCS1P0Njh4i6Tuu_IAm_sAaYSGAhWe_PpLtn2yJ42_mfwuDpZCgIPk1c2m8PDHji9A/s320/P1100530.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the kingfisher we rescued that flew into the<br />
hotel window</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">We noticed some of the
preparations in the hotel last night and the high security all around town and
in the hotel gardens this morning - soldiers and police. There was also a crazy
display on the lake early this morning of boats, of all sizes, circling around
with increasing speed in ever decreasing circles - quite a stir on the water
and quite fun to watch! Perhaps this is also for the benefit of the ANDM. There
is also the unveiling of a new statue on a roundabout near the hotel - perhaps part of the same celebrations I suspect. There
are crowds of people all around it as we drive by - with all the photographic
paraphernalia of the media. On our return it has been unveiled and the crowds
gone. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">Before going to the market,
said to be one of the best in Ethiopia, we drive up to the top of Bezawit Hill,
about 2.5km out of town, for the view of the town and the Blue Nile below. Here
we see the hilltop palace which was built for Haile Selassie, heavily guarded
with no entrance allowed. We can pick out hippos wallowing in the shallows of
the river near a sand spit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCv973lrW8Rp7QFYEJRGN-nLqPaa5OgJKJcsYoObj97l4OJi3aOz1F_8I9uZdRqz45nLQhtgxhIEVyMVJyRxummnLV0itcogcnQCUiGmYMX3kNReUbzgF29Q-ujNeN39fsry8-UQcfHDc/s1600/P1100534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCv973lrW8Rp7QFYEJRGN-nLqPaa5OgJKJcsYoObj97l4OJi3aOz1F_8I9uZdRqz45nLQhtgxhIEVyMVJyRxummnLV0itcogcnQCUiGmYMX3kNReUbzgF29Q-ujNeN39fsry8-UQcfHDc/s320/P1100534.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Martyrs Memorial Monument</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">On our way down we see
massive plastic sheets laid out by the side of the road on which seeds, pulses
and spices are being dried in the sun. <o:p></o:p></span>Just past the bridge over the Blue Nile we see the large <st1:place w:st="on"><b><st1:placename w:st="on">Martyrs</st1:placename> <st1:placename w:st="on">Memorial</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Monument</st1:placetype></b></st1:place>
that is dedicated to those who died fighting the Derg.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGhDjxU26Apb9vS546MlWSvNWz9SFEQspqFlJ06O_UkYVNaj0oKNjWYM3-vmHx3oegaxNVJOPC4PQmnbsT_365jsvYFOA6XwJm2rXWcHK6cvHkFkiD8HCAsFu3DnmLBSnTDgIxCbm6yJc/s1600/P1100537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="107" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGhDjxU26Apb9vS546MlWSvNWz9SFEQspqFlJ06O_UkYVNaj0oKNjWYM3-vmHx3oegaxNVJOPC4PQmnbsT_365jsvYFOA6XwJm2rXWcHK6cvHkFkiD8HCAsFu3DnmLBSnTDgIxCbm6yJc/s400/P1100537.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">panoramic view of the Blue Nile below Bahir Dar<br />
We spot hippos wallowing in the shallows</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">After a stop for a coffee and
cake in a local café we are soon heading for the airport for our flight back to
<st1:city w:st="on">Addis Ababa</st1:city>, where after a rest and supper at
the hotel we head back to <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">London</st1:place></st1:city>.</span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lasting impressions of our trip:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is much poverty but also much happiness. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjaN-zkoYU7DzQwDe5T3-CLWq5OYoBeeT0Ut_3BTOCBwGkOKpRDU59dYtICzX1WhEisfauBezttGEPX46_byUcLyjKbxDBd4NrhYe9Qbdp7dc7uwr2clsY6bgIWtyJrlqJuF7uYIjqR5o/s1600/P1100545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjaN-zkoYU7DzQwDe5T3-CLWq5OYoBeeT0Ut_3BTOCBwGkOKpRDU59dYtICzX1WhEisfauBezttGEPX46_byUcLyjKbxDBd4NrhYe9Qbdp7dc7uwr2clsY6bgIWtyJrlqJuF7uYIjqR5o/s320/P1100545.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bahir Dar market</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Lives in rural areas at least are simple but the diet seems
nutritious, making for lovely teeth and smiles. There is a very strong
Christian faith - the people often walking miles and miles to attend churches
and festivals, often barefoot. Children can walk for many miles to school each
day. They invariably want money and pens from us. But such begging, we are
told, can divert them from education which is becoming much more widely
available and so very important. There seems to be very little obesity. They
are very friendly. The strong faith underpins strong moral values and mutually
supportive communities and families. It seems to me that there are so many
lessons for us to learn here. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkb72B8ANdepYajiYkzq_J66BuyCqsIDgDQHgTwy1w2DhVEPNNX-qbZVy__xpUm8dQOwErTrDaa8tU-z6XLY_dFI1GytlYEUqwNGomAw-8fSK62DB1B2Fel7D-hEhRwdzdRkXWflUBwNU/s1600/P1100548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkb72B8ANdepYajiYkzq_J66BuyCqsIDgDQHgTwy1w2DhVEPNNX-qbZVy__xpUm8dQOwErTrDaa8tU-z6XLY_dFI1GytlYEUqwNGomAw-8fSK62DB1B2Fel7D-hEhRwdzdRkXWflUBwNU/s320/P1100548.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">spices for sale in Bahir Dar market</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And the countryside: <b><span style="font-size: large;">sometimes words seem inadequate to
describe some of the views. Dramatic, spectacular, beautiful, stunning,
breathtaking, awesome…so many superlatives are appropriate. </span></b></div>
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Of course the country has its own problems to find if we
scratch below the tourist veneer. No place can be perfect. But we had a
wonderful time and I feel sure that given the opportunity many of us would wish
to return. </div>
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<o:p><span style="font-size: large;">My blog for Ethiopia has come to an end. Thank you for staying with me to the end and I would love any comments. </span></o:p></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">view of Addis Ababa from my hotel balcony</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Before taking a break for a while from posting here - until the next pilgrimage perhaps - I would like to thank Rosemary and <b><a href="http://www.mccabe-travel.co.uk/choose-a-pilgrimage/ethiopia" target="_blank">McCabe Pilgrimages</a></b> for
such a well organised trip, The <b>Revd. Canon Adrian Slade</b> who with his wife made
such a good job of leading and spiritually guiding us, our excellent guide
Johannes with his encyclopaedic knowledge of just about anything we wanted to
know, and our drivers who transported us safely and cheerfully throughout the
journey, always there to meet us and look after us. And thank you to all my fellow pilgrims for being such good company. </div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-19703919788535501452016-01-23T07:30:00.000+00:002016-01-23T07:30:14.416+00:00Bahir Dar and the Blue Nile Falls<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1WnHowws9YdN7RgmXNRQlAyKFXWK0ATT3luXKqLsUEh7ODX_7GvQDN792yDkdVZDpkkjlr4ZMgN3s9VIhlQrJzT-wO0H7m8IOHhyphenhyphenF3LfU2PqLs6npboie8kHSJi6x_NfE47JAntkrRJs/s1600/P1100400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1WnHowws9YdN7RgmXNRQlAyKFXWK0ATT3luXKqLsUEh7ODX_7GvQDN792yDkdVZDpkkjlr4ZMgN3s9VIhlQrJzT-wO0H7m8IOHhyphenhyphenF3LfU2PqLs6npboie8kHSJi6x_NfE47JAntkrRJs/s320/P1100400.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">early morning on Lake Tana Bahir Dar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;"><b>Bahir Dar</b> is a beautiful
town, and very different from anywhere else we have stayed during our trip. The
streets are lined with palm trees, there are many tulip trees with their
flamboyant red blossoms, and it is very busy, with traffic chaos and tuk tuks
everywhere. There are also many Jacaranda trees, sadly not yet in bloom but
they must be a beautiful sight later. The lakeside hotel affords splendid views
and pleasant strolling in the gardens down to the water's edge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiynS6n6tGfk8QUrDFBIoyeEeD-rfQnLIy7mAnYGFEdp-tsg2khRL6Fjws8H5VqlpLYgE7tFenOvo9i9EUUTUCKTfj8LC4d8NexFZKsSQ2DaddvZdWnRSEsoKpAu5tzpUBNJW8u474d0/s1600/P1100403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiynS6n6tGfk8QUrDFBIoyeEeD-rfQnLIy7mAnYGFEdp-tsg2khRL6Fjws8H5VqlpLYgE7tFenOvo9i9EUUTUCKTfj8LC4d8NexFZKsSQ2DaddvZdWnRSEsoKpAu5tzpUBNJW8u474d0/s320/P1100403.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St George by the Sea - Bahir Dar with congregation gathered<br />
for funeral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">Today, our penultimate full
day in this wonderful country, sees us soon in the coach on our way to visit
the <b>Blue Nile falls</b> downstream of <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Lake Tana</b></st1:place>.
The locals call the falls Tis Abay or "smoking water" because of the
steam clouds and rainbow created when the falls are in full flow. But since 2003
a hydro-electric station upstream has taken much of the flow out of the falls
except during the rainy season and because of this the falls can disappoint the
tourist. We were quite lucky but from pictures seen elsewhere it is clear that
the falls have lost much of their former drama. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl1o6kV3PQVrB45QymbBeu53aAMzoxxvAjYEm5JcV6CE_ya6auFy2-WJZ9A1EAOC3-xvIjzZPySM3aSN0bo2zKfmqPtyMF5Oqk4v7JdMTJHKr1dW_R_-4pdEry92DngYHxNP1AyPefRE8/s1600/P1100408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl1o6kV3PQVrB45QymbBeu53aAMzoxxvAjYEm5JcV6CE_ya6auFy2-WJZ9A1EAOC3-xvIjzZPySM3aSN0bo2zKfmqPtyMF5Oqk4v7JdMTJHKr1dW_R_-4pdEry92DngYHxNP1AyPefRE8/s320/P1100408.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saddle billed stork on way to Blue Nile falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">The drive is 35km along a
very bumpy road - our guide calls it the "African Massage Service".
Along the way we are again treated to much bird life: Sacred ibis, Long Crested
Eagle, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saddle-billed_stork" target="_blank">Saddle billed stork</a>, Heron, Cattle Egrets (peck the seeds out of cattle
coats), the Glossy Ibis, kingfishers, silver beaked hornbill, and a huge number
of birds of all kinds on a rubbish tip we pass - watched over by many vultures
in the surrounding trees. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white;">We pass a farmer carrying his
simple wooden ox-drawn plough on his back, boys chew on the sugar cane, an
important crop here which grows well in the very fertile black soil. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrLkRMuSTpqzgrSznG3e9EPzazOqhpOfK3_ghP3kbRXEcfHov8MGFmVeB19wu7KzEWxz4RIhydX-H7jFQC6FpT1xfS-i8nbpcDIwPgI5sjhFNVNzl0R9-6hs38HFSSg9CprOqtxnw8Ww/s1600/P1100413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrLkRMuSTpqzgrSznG3e9EPzazOqhpOfK3_ghP3kbRXEcfHov8MGFmVeB19wu7KzEWxz4RIhydX-H7jFQC6FpT1xfS-i8nbpcDIwPgI5sjhFNVNzl0R9-6hs38HFSSg9CprOqtxnw8Ww/s320/P1100413.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">farmer with ox drawn wooden plough</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">Finally we arrive at the end
of the road, and have a short walk across open land to a small boat which
ferries us the short way across the river - weaver bird nests hanging in
profusion in the waterside bushes - to another short and very pleasant walk to
the Falls. Along the way we see the Sensitive Plant growing wild, along with
Khat trees, and crops of Kidney beans and Onions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white;">Lunch is al fresco in the
grounds of the hotel next to ours. We are much bothered by flies! The food is
good but served in quantities far too vast for many of us. Asking for smaller
portions, we are told to simply leave what we don't want. This goes against our
upbringing of leaving empty plates. A white rabbit hops around among us,
clearly the restaurant pet!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1XQJjLTWGMp-510K6X7U2LBdsJ0DiqH2Mx8ajCLr-FATX44m99aYj858Pf8sD8saWMwpjcf0wDSqJqic7fu7o4jPEo9it9rqSraGXwRT73VWCz990Gds5Vs5Qd-n4gJsGDr27J1oTJI/s1600/P1100422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1XQJjLTWGMp-510K6X7U2LBdsJ0DiqH2Mx8ajCLr-FATX44m99aYj858Pf8sD8saWMwpjcf0wDSqJqic7fu7o4jPEo9it9rqSraGXwRT73VWCz990Gds5Vs5Qd-n4gJsGDr27J1oTJI/s320/P1100422.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">village scene at beginning of walk to Falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">Soon we are off again to see
the Orthodox school for Deacons beside the <b>Abune Hara Monastery</b>, which is
apparently an important place of pilgrimage for Ethiopians from all around the
country. But this is a disappointment. The church has a service in progress and
unusually they will not let us anywhere near. The school is quite a hike
through the forest - pleasant enough as a walk with lots of butterflies and
birds and plant-life to see, but on arrival at the compound the teacher is
away, the pupils are on holiday and there is little to see. Not the finest
moment of the trip. Also it is very difficult to find very much on-line about
this place. I would welcome any further information. But we do learn that the students have to beg for their injera bread which they dry in the sun and it will last many months in this way. We also see the spring and pool of Holy Water deep in the forest along the path we take to the school. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ0y_VypnMvtZZQylO2vtYAZ-_J19VqLnpNY-kmyayl1LyHi-xZD58bHWtUFxb1jtQqIBLNS_7oM-GPYRNIAeVngIV-O2LUGKye_rOyvQkXpXgsbI3Cr_qior2RujejWdYsvPIgJUVj8Q/s1600/P1100430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ0y_VypnMvtZZQylO2vtYAZ-_J19VqLnpNY-kmyayl1LyHi-xZD58bHWtUFxb1jtQqIBLNS_7oM-GPYRNIAeVngIV-O2LUGKye_rOyvQkXpXgsbI3Cr_qior2RujejWdYsvPIgJUVj8Q/s320/P1100430.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">view from the boat to the Blue Nile Falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">The day ends with a night
club - a real treat to experience the quite unique music and dance skills of
these exuberant people - some of us are even invited on stage to dance and make
fools of ourselves. There is plenty of the local brew on offer and I think we
all sleep well that night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">Our pilgrimage is nearly at
an end. I find it hard to believe just how much we have seen and done in our
eleven days; and we have really only scratched the surface of a wonderful
culture. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElys_sv7BBMKEHVT8RjJ1dvHr2h5Cl2q9uV50jN1GEQIOXOLqbOfJTXLm_BMaGHRNQQcxc1KtfOwW2tukw-ycfYFhY_bKRDDNVkEL9hyphenhyphenLiMXxBOkWMfb0WizLlZG-Mp9Yy4Mm_JkoH3g/s1600/P1100446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElys_sv7BBMKEHVT8RjJ1dvHr2h5Cl2q9uV50jN1GEQIOXOLqbOfJTXLm_BMaGHRNQQcxc1KtfOwW2tukw-ycfYFhY_bKRDDNVkEL9hyphenhyphenLiMXxBOkWMfb0WizLlZG-Mp9Yy4Mm_JkoH3g/s320/P1100446.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Blue Nile Falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">There are reports on the
internet and in some guide books of an alarming tendency in some areas for
children to throw stones at tourists, and for visitors to be threatened for
money over and above the standard entrance fees at some sites. </span><br />
<span style="background: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background: white;">We met none of
this and perhaps did not go to the offending areas. I would say that it is
essential to use the official local guides, tip good service and attention, and
ensure that by supporting the local street and market vendors, cafes and
restaurants then the locals can see that we are only helping them by putting
our money into their local economy. </span><br />
<span style="background: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background: white;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUZZm6OdNed_MGWW-t4JNwp5FuCEsfcnOswGh6f1OoR1xVOakoI-xA736dY2OPkQT1Sn9SgREro3qZTijkZPgnJh7aZVdOj7MV7c9Pj7hziSVd1zzAupe7a76qfnKa3dSznIB68Otu_Y/s1600/P1100489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUZZm6OdNed_MGWW-t4JNwp5FuCEsfcnOswGh6f1OoR1xVOakoI-xA736dY2OPkQT1Sn9SgREro3qZTijkZPgnJh7aZVdOj7MV7c9Pj7hziSVd1zzAupe7a76qfnKa3dSznIB68Otu_Y/s320/P1100489.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abune Hara Monastery church we could not enter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglt8Zhk658gW2zAlGEyW1PHlXZMA9U8mT1mECw91kutKqj7DB8CDceDHEOtbRUzqqNiialRgHsNryzk3dBWJgr_ijXQ7TX0AAp0-poNTH2zr5k-b8yeMQaxsQpGbwZmxBBgw0dLFeNDW0/s1600/P1100511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglt8Zhk658gW2zAlGEyW1PHlXZMA9U8mT1mECw91kutKqj7DB8CDceDHEOtbRUzqqNiialRgHsNryzk3dBWJgr_ijXQ7TX0AAp0-poNTH2zr5k-b8yeMQaxsQpGbwZmxBBgw0dLFeNDW0/s320/P1100511.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Night club entertainment </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRRain8HxMhQeYuLC_J_mEn5QPzZgIej7cVATJkbEkQAZo3dQMP5e2mYk5MKTt8vlna7QanqRUmFTimMavdCQk3gEqy77AwAzwDL6fxQupAJPTAqe9xkb3MDUzxIR8_b5Hm2SyQ-ruRGM/s1600/P1100457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRRain8HxMhQeYuLC_J_mEn5QPzZgIej7cVATJkbEkQAZo3dQMP5e2mYk5MKTt8vlna7QanqRUmFTimMavdCQk3gEqy77AwAzwDL6fxQupAJPTAqe9xkb3MDUzxIR8_b5Hm2SyQ-ruRGM/s320/P1100457.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the boat across the Nile to the Falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="background: white;">Also treat the people with respect, being
careful where we point our cameras outside the tourist sites themselves, always
seeking permission before taking photos of individuals. Hopefully then such
localised aggression can be curbed before it is to get out of hand. It would be
a great pity if because of isolated incidents tourists are put off visiting
what is surely a very worthwhile and rewarding holiday destination. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0nI6IswpgnlldlxQVtUaX_hR1wLSn08cWCKfZPGsPvM8hEFiXyDFDruXKU8Tlqt_m64foRgOBeCPep_yW3OCFCzoVYqsSGlvjmmhD4Rxhd8nhnfP17EryXDAMJZbQz72QMwv_c-m3r7w/s1600/P1100470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0nI6IswpgnlldlxQVtUaX_hR1wLSn08cWCKfZPGsPvM8hEFiXyDFDruXKU8Tlqt_m64foRgOBeCPep_yW3OCFCzoVYqsSGlvjmmhD4Rxhd8nhnfP17EryXDAMJZbQz72QMwv_c-m3r7w/s400/P1100470.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Tana</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background: white;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-2601791240521238602016-01-20T07:30:00.000+00:002016-01-20T07:30:04.779+00:00Lake Tana's Monastic Churches<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFF4liC7y2uZzNm-94X1sR0TUnRKbkTc8PJSwC55PcLvIJiDnpwEzk9edsBfcht4lrsci-easDZE91s2CI32yCvIHIuJiWUFmqaegLGdBbpdAryvp2u1xhgU3muCbq9HqJwwcUTu2x_I/s1600/P1100211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFF4liC7y2uZzNm-94X1sR0TUnRKbkTc8PJSwC55PcLvIJiDnpwEzk9edsBfcht4lrsci-easDZE91s2CI32yCvIHIuJiWUFmqaegLGdBbpdAryvp2u1xhgU3muCbq9HqJwwcUTu2x_I/s320/P1100211.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">scenery on the way to Gorgora</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: white;">Monday morning at our
fabulous Mayleko Lodge hotel and I am again woken by chanting from worshippers making
their way to the church on the top of the hill. But this time at 3am! I do not
mind. It is for me a satisfyingly spiritual experience. The sound is soon to be
joined by an orchestration of bird song better than any dawn chorus I have ever
heard at home even in the deepest </span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Kent</st1:place></st1:country-region><span style="background-color: white;"> countryside. I lie for quite a
while enjoying the music before drifting off to sleep again.</span><br />
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<span style="background: white;"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzemsudRDLkRDigAbMQZg0mBzh4an6fVv9QNsgF9kwhejzDVNugcBSJSVPfvJ6duMFFjZlEGuPUZcCVkSojdUVjcsLP2XeoCB6cHGPsU9-oFxjqm4yHhR-gWFzEHTWok-dFrOjyMLPrwE/s1600/P1100220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzemsudRDLkRDigAbMQZg0mBzh4an6fVv9QNsgF9kwhejzDVNugcBSJSVPfvJ6duMFFjZlEGuPUZcCVkSojdUVjcsLP2XeoCB6cHGPsU9-oFxjqm4yHhR-gWFzEHTWok-dFrOjyMLPrwE/s320/P1100220.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">on way to Gorgora</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background: white;">Today our coach takes us down
to the Gorgora peninsular on the North <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">shore</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on"><b>Lake Tana</b></st1:placename></st1:place>
to pick up a boat to take us across the lake to <b>Bahir Dar</b>. It will then double
back to the hotel and pick up all our bags for the four hour journey by road.
During the day we shall see three of the monastic churches for which the lake
is famous, dating back to at least the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.
What they lack in architectural interest compared with the Lalibela rock-hewn
churches, for example, is more than made up for by the splendid ecclesiastical
art. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP_BfVE-bbcTf3LXYK3chxV3xkAUf0nEj38uGkjpGAFrihphtlga1ChePLYMqpIhceSpJvTTlSCiHCGvUZYnuhr8j2bOolg2aFw_AMbmg2S0njYb3k-wGOEMhkZ-FGe-Emk2p3k_GWUPI/s1600/P1100225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP_BfVE-bbcTf3LXYK3chxV3xkAUf0nEj38uGkjpGAFrihphtlga1ChePLYMqpIhceSpJvTTlSCiHCGvUZYnuhr8j2bOolg2aFw_AMbmg2S0njYb3k-wGOEMhkZ-FGe-Emk2p3k_GWUPI/s320/P1100225.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Debre Sina Mariam church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">It is an hour long drive to
Gorgora but endlessly fascinating: here is a very different and largely arable
landscape; and quite green </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2kuLwMlZamflTjGLlG7Io8PTgezCVzZmYpSdh4kaI-UKqxHr9HY14LayHlCIAWZLZNYMHIC29_tUTr3QZEoklts6bBqav5l7XquSU_3EX6RcVBdfXw-Qv9gx1IRA9hJhJyUFiVSWFtM/s1600/P1100238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2kuLwMlZamflTjGLlG7Io8PTgezCVzZmYpSdh4kaI-UKqxHr9HY14LayHlCIAWZLZNYMHIC29_tUTr3QZEoklts6bBqav5l7XquSU_3EX6RcVBdfXw-Qv9gx1IRA9hJhJyUFiVSWFtM/s320/P1100238.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside Debre Sina Mariam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background: white;">and lush. We see sorghum, maize stacked to dry,
prickly cacti used as fence boundaries; children walking to school along the
road at 7.30am, the boys in pink uniform; ladies making the injera bread for
the day in the dust by the side of the busy road; cattle shackled together in
the village to prevent them wandering presumably; a field of what looked like
asparagus pea, the first I have seen here; children always waving and chanting
"money money" as we drive past; rough platforms built in the middle
of the arable crops where children stand swinging a stone around their heads on
the end of a rope to keep the birds away; and there are very many birds,
including the Northern Carmine Bee-Eater, a beautiful red bird flying overhead,
White Egrets, Red billed Fire Finch, Hooded Vultures, Plantain Eaters, Laughing
Dove and many more. Our guide has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the bird
population here.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">So the lake eventually comes
into view ahead of us, shimmering in the heat haze. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">Before boarding the boat we
visit the typical round <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">church</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on"><b>Debre Sina Mariam</b></st1:placename></st1:place> with
its many wall paintings - a little more faded than in some other churches but
still amazing. We wait for someone to come to unlock the church for us. A monk
arrives in the traditional saffron yellow robes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhov6u8uQvvCxnp6J_FYvTCDjxTGmfjGiZrXkmzry2_crSGA8scHpcyH-HbKIvwPXd1q12xrwZRszKd9vjY4ZMGqiZJWMJ9dsa1K0fWEUw6U9Do4sYvtaHwzDbXrRI0FTeVnGDP1fr_H30/s1600/P1100255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhov6u8uQvvCxnp6J_FYvTCDjxTGmfjGiZrXkmzry2_crSGA8scHpcyH-HbKIvwPXd1q12xrwZRszKd9vjY4ZMGqiZJWMJ9dsa1K0fWEUw6U9Do4sYvtaHwzDbXrRI0FTeVnGDP1fr_H30/s320/P1100255.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside Debre Sina Mariam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">As we leave the church
compound an old lady shakes all our hands with a lovely warm smile and goodbye.
This is the very first place where we have not been harangued by children. They
are all busy with the butchering of the cow for another "swarming" or
killing, which we have to walk past, this time especially for the festival on
this day of <b>Mary's Flight into <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Egypt</st1:place></st1:country-region></b>.
As we have seen before, the carcase is being divided up, and a woman is
fetching basins of water from the lake to help in the cleaning process. It all
seems rather grisly to our sanitised view of butchering, but I am willing to
bet this cow had a very much happier and healthier life than many that end up
plastic-wrapped on our supermarket shelves, and the end would have been swift.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white;">Our boat is called Nigat,
meaning "Dawn," and will be our transport across <st1:place w:st="on"><b>Lake
Tana</b></st1:place> for the next few hours. This is a huge lake, the farthest
shores not easily visible to us as we make our way across, and it is very muddy
silted looking water, nothing like the shimmering blue of the beautiful Italian
lakes for example. But the interest of what we will visit makes up for that and
I find it a relaxing trip, giving the opportunity to read, meditate and
consolidate all our experiences up to this moment. <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6bw4k53Qstygfu9IV0MdeXg0-uTO4HuzX2Oy70sMQgDA2Q060_ftAHY_y4auH5PLG6Ku1E1siCHbtD6zhDkhlGko26eJ18dd50lSYOfxVOlVRgYm-qaNZxoaTGsn0TVD27P98BsUr62M/s1600/P1100266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6bw4k53Qstygfu9IV0MdeXg0-uTO4HuzX2Oy70sMQgDA2Q060_ftAHY_y4auH5PLG6Ku1E1siCHbtD6zhDkhlGko26eJ18dd50lSYOfxVOlVRgYm-qaNZxoaTGsn0TVD27P98BsUr62M/s320/P1100266.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tankwa stored in the boat house at Gorgora</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn67sfd_keAqKZRBkppiotpKQz6ycrV7c9_-pGAi4BrW6MBOglF62tgSo2ehUhH8yhSxR3qe6Gz6H9VtxGiaO6SUIVzNdhKe5UBSXyV67p7NhMiRcdHtCDYuixFp2_O9_GzXLPd3DpBNo/s1600/P1100285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn67sfd_keAqKZRBkppiotpKQz6ycrV7c9_-pGAi4BrW6MBOglF62tgSo2ehUhH8yhSxR3qe6Gz6H9VtxGiaO6SUIVzNdhKe5UBSXyV67p7NhMiRcdHtCDYuixFp2_O9_GzXLPd3DpBNo/s320/P1100285.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boy in his Tankwa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We do see a few of the
flimsy papyrus canoes or <b>Tankwa</b> out on the water, the occupants fishing, and we
pass a few small inhabited islands. Life here must be very simple and harsh.
The lake can apparently be a very hostile environment where bad weather can
whip up the water dangerously and quite quickly. <o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgschmtD6GPDctE9hJy2I0TwmXJElVZ6Rs0ADk-JMLI1bBDDad8WmJpL1hnnvcwbgwAoKfMOgcSdxbZyjjRSWN-T8c_ASFmRIsqEtIJtg4jw5dAlySmj2owLJNpEzBUXg_rpE38bFEno6E/s1600/P1100276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgschmtD6GPDctE9hJy2I0TwmXJElVZ6Rs0ADk-JMLI1bBDDad8WmJpL1hnnvcwbgwAoKfMOgcSdxbZyjjRSWN-T8c_ASFmRIsqEtIJtg4jw5dAlySmj2owLJNpEzBUXg_rpE38bFEno6E/s320/P1100276.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">We are served coffee on the
boat, brewed in the traditional way on the lower deck, with hot charcoal,
incense, everything as it would be made on dry land. Health and safety? The
cups are all washed up between times with water scooped from the lake!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">Our next stop is the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">island</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Dek</st1:placename></st1:place> - and the <b>Narga Selassie Monastery</b>.
The church is near to the landing place, within its stone compound, which
reminds me of the Gondar Royal Enclosure - not surprising - I learn that it was
built for the <b><a href="http://wisdomoftolerance.blogspot.com.es/2016/01/the-fasil-ghebbi-compound-in-gondar.html" target="_blank">Empress Mentewab</a></b>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8UxfQrM7mCVpEXqIDsy4Qu-bMuP59ekhPkxuF8aCvb7aUDh5kH9-8dc6IQdq2wmgSVz-NGWd91ZpJYSWMn5nRYMP-73tCVSJUhaieUALcukb_AIcUAFpFUJeoDREYjrDBzKLMoOgPCKM/s1600/P1100288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8UxfQrM7mCVpEXqIDsy4Qu-bMuP59ekhPkxuF8aCvb7aUDh5kH9-8dc6IQdq2wmgSVz-NGWd91ZpJYSWMn5nRYMP-73tCVSJUhaieUALcukb_AIcUAFpFUJeoDREYjrDBzKLMoOgPCKM/s320/P1100288.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to Narga Selassie Monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGnecWZ7irF1Z-djuTKe03bB1Jo6cxQ07P3wEkQ0Mx3-CuwWJkSYpehnlwxX9VUSDwmXnmT8r4x_NyNbEuqOO5eOvicUFV7_R4T4s2nRKOGs7h7twx9wrlairSh3TigJTcWBe89mgsZY/s1600/P1100289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGnecWZ7irF1Z-djuTKe03bB1Jo6cxQ07P3wEkQ0Mx3-CuwWJkSYpehnlwxX9VUSDwmXnmT8r4x_NyNbEuqOO5eOvicUFV7_R4T4s2nRKOGs7h7twx9wrlairSh3TigJTcWBe89mgsZY/s200/P1100289.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our boat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">As we landed lads rushed
towards us across the water in their papyrus canoes to sell us their neat
little papyrus canoe replicas. These are all handmade and different in size,
shape and detail. They also try to sell us two very alive fish which they have
just caught, although what we would do with them I am not sure!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8RvlTMTIiXsSktwn1ruToySrKFNxx-YnIGbW5OX49Fsd66lsxb8hZJx2lXmSFIMRKjnqUQvXaUZ5MPNkYi70rP6SA3eXXCYiB8hu1iRXhkzxamj8eeJP3J5wpA_X1aMIf3XMuGt2vFO4/s1600/P1100299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8RvlTMTIiXsSktwn1ruToySrKFNxx-YnIGbW5OX49Fsd66lsxb8hZJx2lXmSFIMRKjnqUQvXaUZ5MPNkYi70rP6SA3eXXCYiB8hu1iRXhkzxamj8eeJP3J5wpA_X1aMIf3XMuGt2vFO4/s320/P1100299.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Narga Selassie paintings- St George and the <br />Dragon </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcVGx4ik1_kqNy7Wr5Dr7ocXE-Q6l_HEunrtLVQIW5fFssmKpTzu9uB-NkE1xsQGIwF_Ph2SfrMXvBY9fpbnofY3keakJPBBmMthAec5LfYCczCP70bVWaTrCuATdJBwfTQemf7oLkAA/s1600/P1100324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcVGx4ik1_kqNy7Wr5Dr7ocXE-Q6l_HEunrtLVQIW5fFssmKpTzu9uB-NkE1xsQGIwF_Ph2SfrMXvBY9fpbnofY3keakJPBBmMthAec5LfYCczCP70bVWaTrCuATdJBwfTQemf7oLkAA/s320/P1100324.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside Narga Selassie church - note yellow <br />candles and drum </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSg_mS87UqvbBjqywAX0Kem7lQMkYnlchd29rfEhnTO7Ko2kX9h4ftmB3sD4629Y4d7uzfRHVmbIxvGVo8nl0wjD1CXE4Sey9pNlGm2i8FVPuS-I2q16qqbJFJWpSQzh_Wopzjd67MLB4/s1600/P1100295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSg_mS87UqvbBjqywAX0Kem7lQMkYnlchd29rfEhnTO7Ko2kX9h4ftmB3sD4629Y4d7uzfRHVmbIxvGVo8nl0wjD1CXE4Sey9pNlGm2i8FVPuS-I2q16qqbJFJWpSQzh_Wopzjd67MLB4/s320/P1100295.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">church at Narga Selassie Monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">Monasteries are very
attractive for people in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Ethiopia</st1:country-region></st1:place>
as a way to find support into old age without the availability of pensions. </span><span style="background-color: white;">10,000 people live on this
island of Dek and very many more come once a year to the main religious festival - it
must be quite a sight with all the boats, I think.</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">The pictures here in the church
of are incredible, the colours vivid. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">The sun now is very hot on
the lake, the metal boat deck far too hot for bare feet. Even the wooden seats
in the sun burn the skin through my trousers. Soon we land again, this time to
walk to the <a href="http://www.eotcmk.org/site-en/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=61" target="_blank">Azewa Mariam Monastery</a>, We have to run the gauntlet of the dozens and dozens of stalls
lining the rough footpath on the way. "Faranje, to look is free",
they call out. But they pester to compete with each other to sell something,
and I feel I would be happier to look and buy without so much harassment
because there is some beautiful jewellery for example.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOA0nsrqzKxHBHd-7ZKNxq_xjxPIDo4oNJiBGloqPj52iviP3Z0ltfhAeh-lO7roRQVNPAol6wKkU7MqKr3S3Z_rT_hxeJb-aO-NN3kcpWEJeMELKG9R74xc3GbDdl0deYBf45IuRMdf8/s1600/P1100335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOA0nsrqzKxHBHd-7ZKNxq_xjxPIDo4oNJiBGloqPj52iviP3Z0ltfhAeh-lO7roRQVNPAol6wKkU7MqKr3S3Z_rT_hxeJb-aO-NN3kcpWEJeMELKG9R74xc3GbDdl0deYBf45IuRMdf8/s320/P1100335.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Student accommodation at Azewa Mariam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPY5zK55p4FPKySSd8ozV68I5Wbv6_WYvXCu0h6fTmGEWgGrwFWkPM1zke3JG-s3ptivrZOcEscdNWlujrQlE9fDvnFWO9gQ7kV85nJ_f5ZYNgEj92S7Ut15wXzYsyEDVigxf8fkJMwMM/s1600/P1100340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPY5zK55p4FPKySSd8ozV68I5Wbv6_WYvXCu0h6fTmGEWgGrwFWkPM1zke3JG-s3ptivrZOcEscdNWlujrQlE9fDvnFWO9gQ7kV85nJ_f5ZYNgEj92S7Ut15wXzYsyEDVigxf8fkJMwMM/s320/P1100340.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Azewa Mariam church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">Once at the monastery we see
inside the school for priests and deacons. Because it is the festival day
remembering the Flight into <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Egypt</st1:place></st1:country-region>,
the lads have the day off, so they are relaxing and drinking their home brewed
tala. But they treat us to a reading, chanting from the story of the Flight,
out of a Holy Book resting on a bamboo lectern which they have made for
themselves. In fact the students have to make all their own huts for their
accommodation as well as any furniture needed. They take some training here
before going on to ordinary schools, ultimately destined to be priests. Many
are already deacons. The church roof is untypically thatched making it more
attractive than some of the others. Inside the church the paintings are again
incredible, all very colourful but quite Chaucerian here in their crudity. </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg44O9RsnkxcfWkHfq3z8muJMJX8wUs_PFkhrwsXLg0prvn4H0P5tYJhR8Coci4XMK7eAMoz1_DeqRWSS1vIT9tweK9vrXQVpp7rmXDGi-hTaFtmHuUOSyIDh8QnOPf-pD-rOFDzDWbRCU/s1600/P1100353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg44O9RsnkxcfWkHfq3z8muJMJX8wUs_PFkhrwsXLg0prvn4H0P5tYJhR8Coci4XMK7eAMoz1_DeqRWSS1vIT9tweK9vrXQVpp7rmXDGi-hTaFtmHuUOSyIDh8QnOPf-pD-rOFDzDWbRCU/s320/P1100353.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last Supper at Azewa Mariam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">There
is a striking picture which we have seen elsewhere as well - and very symbolic
- of a tree full of fruit. Down at its base are two rats, one white and one
black, eating the tree. A python opening his mouth represents the grave waiting
for us - to the left is a man with a gun, aimed at someone picking the fruit
who is not paying attention to the next life, and ignoring when this life will
come to an end. In secular life, we are told, time goes faster.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2-2EVsd3jGbVPqa_pY5jOFB0o5bQnxN5_i57KiioWNn3l3tv9jOPSCZg4hN5fCwbolOx9U0pbB7Wb6EWLyqYfZTI_9wLCY26rS6i_QQuYYSFp9XFdA4lhohV4GCyBLlijD1xUEBtj3QQ/s1600/P1100369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2-2EVsd3jGbVPqa_pY5jOFB0o5bQnxN5_i57KiioWNn3l3tv9jOPSCZg4hN5fCwbolOx9U0pbB7Wb6EWLyqYfZTI_9wLCY26rS6i_QQuYYSFp9XFdA4lhohV4GCyBLlijD1xUEBtj3QQ/s320/P1100369.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Azewa Mariam - George and the Dragon<br />and see the Tree in bottom left hand corner</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">I have not fully remembered
all the symbolism of this I fear, for example the significance of the white and
black rats. If any one can fill in the detail please let me know. There are two
interesting links I have found, where much more information can be found on
Ethiopian iconography and with some tremendous photos. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethiopian_art" target="_blank">Here</a> and <a href="http://www.betsyporter.com/Ethiopia.html" target="_blank">here</a>. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYQR2LRJXbNsSLSXRTENUnRyIu2kKMrLIs121xZldrECiDcQJphz8LBTz_Puh-zM1HKIS7mPyoR-lgCGx8xLx6cXRa66boa1rusy9uEP8MBouNZBWy4mmYJUvwiEJebxxRiG3I8xd8yec/s1600/P1100379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYQR2LRJXbNsSLSXRTENUnRyIu2kKMrLIs121xZldrECiDcQJphz8LBTz_Puh-zM1HKIS7mPyoR-lgCGx8xLx6cXRa66boa1rusy9uEP8MBouNZBWy4mmYJUvwiEJebxxRiG3I8xd8yec/s320/P1100379.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">at Azewa Mariam church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">Back in the boat we have 40
minutes to <b>Bahir Dar</b>. We pass <b>Kibran Gabriel monastery</b>, on its island, open
only to male visitors. As we approach <b>Bahir Dar</b> we see where the Blue Nile
starts its journey to join the White Nile at <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Khartoum</st1:place></st1:city> and so to the Mediterranean Soon we
are at the landing stage at <b>Bahir Dar</b> - our coach is waiting for us and it is
just a few minutes to the hotel. We will have time to unpack and rest, before
meeting for evening prayers and a reflection on the day's experiences. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-29636185243462923462016-01-17T07:30:00.000+00:002016-01-17T07:30:00.699+00:00Sunday service at Debre Birhan Selassie - then scrambling, coffee and injera <div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU6T3Ume-aBRBSrl1mJiWqMopGupVzW6bOveZLBcKyK0AN5J8VZT1CkhN5QsG1TGJyf-8WXnep5jVGnNB25giUaWPI5jNK0o-uLRPcJCLv4xN0qLyEQ9DHxYi9ey8X1w_IitmZx6i6JcA/s1600/P1100104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU6T3Ume-aBRBSrl1mJiWqMopGupVzW6bOveZLBcKyK0AN5J8VZT1CkhN5QsG1TGJyf-8WXnep5jVGnNB25giUaWPI5jNK0o-uLRPcJCLv4xN0qLyEQ9DHxYi9ey8X1w_IitmZx6i6JcA/s320/P1100104.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All Age worship Ethiopian Orthodox style</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKJ_dDxYz3Trdy18RrM52czgltqqvR4yhuxWadDDEXUwF24nL0OKU_xfEjcS1vycjALXEam76YFK5LdvCKaUuswTSznuktQE6WpV5zvgl1riDzPVxEMT0l0L6KMyLu-0Mr1ptBE3uQeMo/s1600/P1100097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKJ_dDxYz3Trdy18RrM52czgltqqvR4yhuxWadDDEXUwF24nL0OKU_xfEjcS1vycjALXEam76YFK5LdvCKaUuswTSznuktQE6WpV5zvgl1riDzPVxEMT0l0L6KMyLu-0Mr1ptBE3uQeMo/s320/P1100097.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">on their way to church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">It's Sunday. We are to go
back to <b>Debre Birhan Selassie</b> (or Mountain of the Enlightened Trinity) - the
church we visited yesterday in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><b>Gondar</b></st1:place></st1:city>,
with the fabulous wall and ceiling painted panels; this time to experience the
Sunday service as it happens. As we sit in the coach at the hotel waiting to go,
and giving our orders for lunch in their restaurant, I watch dozens, possibly
hundreds, of white-clad figures zigzagging up the path behind the hotel
compound towards a green domed church on the top of the distant hill. The sun
is still rising up over the mountains behind us, shrouded in mist and forming
ghostly silhouettes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">Along the road we see a dead
donkey, a sad sight, with vultures hanging around waiting for their chance to
pick the carcass down to dry bones, which will eventually bleach in the strong
sun. The roads are full of people dressed in their white, walking to or from
church, many of them students pouring through the University campus gate. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">When we arrive at the church
there are crowds gathered within the outer gate, but outside the church itself.
Here we ladies must all cover our heads with scarves. Hats will not do. And
females gather to the right of the church building, men to the left. And
everywhere children quietly play or sit with their carers, girls suitably
attired with pretty scarves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3XnsQDx8v5eRmjzrAKxdhaRk-nkl6A-I9dkA8uTl2_nQLULw9EWoscos56dpdGpzD04j5hm1_tFwKtksqJO8G22jlMg_edqXHKprEEmbIuM27opQL3wc1m5B5T_AkxvZZ1Ydw7gFFIh0/s1600/P1100109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3XnsQDx8v5eRmjzrAKxdhaRk-nkl6A-I9dkA8uTl2_nQLULw9EWoscos56dpdGpzD04j5hm1_tFwKtksqJO8G22jlMg_edqXHKprEEmbIuM27opQL3wc1m5B5T_AkxvZZ1Ydw7gFFIh0/s320/P1100109.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the priest delivers his sermon from the steps</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">As we arrive the priest is
preaching from the steps to the assembled crowd. He is passionate and
charismatic and the people are very attentive albeit relaxed. He is telling us
apparently about good versus evil: that good will benefit in the end even if
evil behaviour seems to give immediate gains - these are short-lived and not
worth it. He cites many bible stories to illustrate his point - a good message
for us all I think. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPDNNTS_9kCQ6J1TrdGOfruotxApB4jTA-eiJTTEXIZJb8af7DNz1qfjrX7oGYRBmdt0FEd0jh4AHwDxd1Rxl3xbR2nFZgr-Bfu-zuGViXACpbWfvmJdnnOVkt7etgTKbxDfBcVUlchxE/s1600/P1100119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPDNNTS_9kCQ6J1TrdGOfruotxApB4jTA-eiJTTEXIZJb8af7DNz1qfjrX7oGYRBmdt0FEd0jh4AHwDxd1Rxl3xbR2nFZgr-Bfu-zuGViXACpbWfvmJdnnOVkt7etgTKbxDfBcVUlchxE/s320/P1100119.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the Felasha village</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgye-DyKBUtQr10qSiGTlw1vFnipve9jnZooJRVxoNVNJ-yNXG4gNhFNFonQOKYycDDBRCA4lRzUPSUURz6TUVWwdH_E_lu_IgOi1dN8Iua2BguXd9VDOPV1GbDUdBkkYrLj214a6HV8_o/s1600/P1100114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgye-DyKBUtQr10qSiGTlw1vFnipve9jnZooJRVxoNVNJ-yNXG4gNhFNFonQOKYycDDBRCA4lRzUPSUURz6TUVWwdH_E_lu_IgOi1dN8Iua2BguXd9VDOPV1GbDUdBkkYrLj214a6HV8_o/s320/P1100114.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a market stall Gondar - free range chickens being fed! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">This Sunday service could
last for 4 hours, and worshippers attend for whatever period they want to. The
formal time apparently extends over 3 of those hours, and a bell rings at the
beginning of that formal period so that those who want to stay make sure they
are within the church, and others come outside into the surrounding grounds.
The bell also rings half way through, and again for the start of the Communion.
Some will only go into the church at
that time, to be sprinkled with the Holy Water. Incense is also burnt at the
beginning, middle and end of the service, reminding me of <a href="http://wisdomoftolerance.blogspot.com.es/2013/11/mardin-and-saffron-monastery-our.html" target="_blank">our experiences inthe Syriac Orthodox monastery</a> in South East Turkey. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">The Geze language is used in
the liturgy, by tradition, although many will not understand this. But the
reading of the Holy book and the preaching are both in Amharic so these words
are accessible to all. Three hours of singing by the deacons and priests will
all be from memory.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">After 20 minutes or so
soaking up the atmosphere of the place, we have to leave each, of us taking
away our own spiritual experiences. We drive through the market, now in full
swing, and with many coffee ceremonies getting under way - a great local
tradition for families and friends to get together after church.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">An excellent road now takes
us up into the mountains. This is clearly a more affluent area. This is where
we saw our first car - a modern Yaris! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrZ7rHiiELoBOSCGWQs1cnEHPEr2FRXjq3HYULEwDnFTMakOPngChexuj3rp_r589uc0bM5owK7wEU3Mv5paQq7xz5zkw0u7_a6DS295EVNb3WPm6KtIHh-_wippjlUtkGyfFJImpQac/s1600/P1100099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrZ7rHiiELoBOSCGWQs1cnEHPEr2FRXjq3HYULEwDnFTMakOPngChexuj3rp_r589uc0bM5owK7wEU3Mv5paQq7xz5zkw0u7_a6DS295EVNb3WPm6KtIHh-_wippjlUtkGyfFJImpQac/s320/P1100099.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gondar street scene</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">We stop at the nearby <b><a href="http://www.britannica.com/topic/Falasha" target="_blank">Falasha or Ethiopian Jewish village</a></b>. The Jewish community have all returned to Israel
from here, but the culture lives on in their trades and skills, many were ironsmiths/blacksmiths,
weavers and farmers, and the women were known for their pottery. The crafts and
souvenirs for sale reflect this. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPUnvK2Yyt3eDfK37-JB_VjEf3Bw8CIGVP7uBFneCmyy41o_v01ZhQNdPmvC9h9O0oJ05MkkJ0MhsQhtHQ2f93h7gAYOmLUvlIN7L3qunl4SWEvLzJ2ztDoxcBKLivVx1LDyrVlENAMLg/s1600/P1100158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPUnvK2Yyt3eDfK37-JB_VjEf3Bw8CIGVP7uBFneCmyy41o_v01ZhQNdPmvC9h9O0oJ05MkkJ0MhsQhtHQ2f93h7gAYOmLUvlIN7L3qunl4SWEvLzJ2ztDoxcBKLivVx1LDyrVlENAMLg/s320/P1100158.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">beehive in a tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSsZMdUMm07wr7EdM0y2g3KFQcsn2p0qeHqA9TdR_z2hkyrzm2zkDuOLEhnUBr-XCq1LT7WIm2QwgfH90vwmajegrZUc8VmnAl-6XiR3fnofgSz82yuI5wttJ1zx9W-qgc1gmu8OkryOY/s1600/P1100131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="110" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSsZMdUMm07wr7EdM0y2g3KFQcsn2p0qeHqA9TdR_z2hkyrzm2zkDuOLEhnUBr-XCq1LT7WIm2QwgfH90vwmajegrZUc8VmnAl-6XiR3fnofgSz82yuI5wttJ1zx9W-qgc1gmu8OkryOY/s400/P1100131.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the Simien mountain range</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">We briefly go into a private
house here. They are busily preparing for a coffee ceremony for after the
church service - we will go back on the way home to enjoy their very own and
special brand of hospitality over this home roasted, ground and brewed
coffee and be shown how the local traditional bread or <b>injera</b> is made. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white;">This next bit is not for the
squeamish! It is - yet another - feast day today and there has been a
"scrambling." The villagers have killed a cow, and they are all
sharing the bits! Nothing is apparently wasted - we can see women and children
cutting, washing, tearing, sorting and generally dealing with the meat and
entrails whilst the bloodied and skinned head lies a little apart and the hide
has been taken off to dry and no doubt use for floor or wall covering, or even
for chair coverings - as we see later today at our lunchtime restaurant. Much
of the best meat will be spiced and dried and stored for up to a year. But just
as much will be shared and enjoyed now. I cannot feel so upset by the quick
killing of a cow that has enjoyed such a good life grazing free range across
the pastures here, finally to be killed where she lived and strolled. Her life
has been generally good, compared with the miserable lives of so many
<a href="https://www.ciwf.com/" target="_blank">factory-farmed animals</a> (for UK readers see <a href="http://www.ciwf.org.uk/" target="_blank">here</a>) that face the final suffering of perhaps many miles of
road transport deprived of food and water and any kind of necessary comfort. And the Ethiopians need this meat for their very survival. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx44ndizIZWiUfKwrs9waJaHMaUIPe_RSdnRro7GuwfHdI-9NOCMmwEYR0NAZ0iM4BrO4QnCZ-kAPlTuhPVaKGZECqUf70u9Q_Eq7C_2WHIPAFFd9eTYre0h83U4_t8oh3g1NweC8ktSE/s1600/P1100160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx44ndizIZWiUfKwrs9waJaHMaUIPe_RSdnRro7GuwfHdI-9NOCMmwEYR0NAZ0iM4BrO4QnCZ-kAPlTuhPVaKGZECqUf70u9Q_Eq7C_2WHIPAFFd9eTYre0h83U4_t8oh3g1NweC8ktSE/s320/P1100160.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Befiker Kossoye Ecolodge rooms</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL44rElF89GN7Csi9tuQrbFA_YWbvCyu9F3VYhqSzlek7xl7ImHY62lWQog7HT4IS5hzIIz1FAJ7rIkF9DXlxazcPAMKIb0qMm6yn8q2D52khp_E-zh_Rvx1kF9qRIvUVL2_ZA_08yIl0/s1600/P1100127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL44rElF89GN7Csi9tuQrbFA_YWbvCyu9F3VYhqSzlek7xl7ImHY62lWQog7HT4IS5hzIIz1FAJ7rIkF9DXlxazcPAMKIb0qMm6yn8q2D52khp_E-zh_Rvx1kF9qRIvUVL2_ZA_08yIl0/s320/P1100127.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a "swarming" - a cow being butchered and shared</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">The children here greet us at
the bus door with Yo's and High Fives - somewhat different from the usual clamour
for money and pens we have come to expect. A lady at the "scrambling"
was thrilled that we were a Christian group and on our way to a prayer service
- and that we had visited church already this morning. She lamented that most
of the coaches who stopped by here were tourists and not religious, not even
seemingly interested in their religious way of life. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC381hILLu4-DK_21OjHE3_CYTYNARL31-QcTFNUkkV7989xObYessruv0zes_gRZCJRN1HHQ8sl1qEbwnodlXWTto7XSlMrTmCp5kQglZUMpmDL1nEcpAdVrFGOZqQHQaHtOXktg-o5A/s1600/P1100150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC381hILLu4-DK_21OjHE3_CYTYNARL31-QcTFNUkkV7989xObYessruv0zes_gRZCJRN1HHQ8sl1qEbwnodlXWTto7XSlMrTmCp5kQglZUMpmDL1nEcpAdVrFGOZqQHQaHtOXktg-o5A/s320/P1100150.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the perfect spot for our Eucharist</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">We are climbing into the most
Southerly part of the Simien mountain range where the main crops are tef, wheat
and barley. The farmers try to get a second crop here when the main crop has
been harvested, of chick peas, as this does not need so much rain. But this
year the rain fall has been meagre so there will be no second crop. In fact <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Ethiopia</st1:place></st1:country-region> is
suffering another serious drought 2015/16 especially in the Kobo area about 200
km South of Mekele, to the East of Lalibela. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3XPil4WiU-c-rSO_Kqd8-eQLzb4JJR0xb1f7GY8YV6LmfIZMgcvwQle1VJ0LW5QVZoGibWEBy85nSw5aWYcIMZI7ZGadJAi6zNfqV4yufUPqPlSYq98xajWFYlJpmbFsJxWSmS1wUn3M/s1600/P1100156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3XPil4WiU-c-rSO_Kqd8-eQLzb4JJR0xb1f7GY8YV6LmfIZMgcvwQle1VJ0LW5QVZoGibWEBy85nSw5aWYcIMZI7ZGadJAi6zNfqV4yufUPqPlSYq98xajWFYlJpmbFsJxWSmS1wUn3M/s320/P1100156.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">at Befiker Kossoye lodge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjeH3Xm_JiOHY6OXv8S4FHqC_as6uza6fhQzvM7SbvsYGw46tNyIHEBEBnHRC8l49MpCy9waDUt-bQc6tmTY9TTTUi4CHPhXtxx2R9D1yki8IP-ugtw_1WeFn-I6fTKykt53MAvZDF0E4/s1600/P1100169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjeH3Xm_JiOHY6OXv8S4FHqC_as6uza6fhQzvM7SbvsYGw46tNyIHEBEBnHRC8l49MpCy9waDUt-bQc6tmTY9TTTUi4CHPhXtxx2R9D1yki8IP-ugtw_1WeFn-I6fTKykt53MAvZDF0E4/s320/P1100169.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">room at Befiker Kossoye</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">Because it is Sunday and
another feast day many men are carrying large yellow plastic canisters -
looking like petrol cans - full of the local "beer", a potent brew
and generally not to our taste. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR3TmLf8bapxdFM5jF9Ro0d0jTafsR2VYJro6o_npGz7rJ5OTyiFISEHnfwPSvvohaVGjWSjfmnIcgd-obFVXxkGXPJhKbWAh3j4M8Dq6IFIyuLDFsXNQrntWpjcdnoRGfrpm1UQJAjCU/s1600/P1100185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR3TmLf8bapxdFM5jF9Ro0d0jTafsR2VYJro6o_npGz7rJ5OTyiFISEHnfwPSvvohaVGjWSjfmnIcgd-obFVXxkGXPJhKbWAh3j4M8Dq6IFIyuLDFsXNQrntWpjcdnoRGfrpm1UQJAjCU/s320/P1100185.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">making the injera</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">There have been many
memorable experiences on this trip, but one of the best for me will always be
the Eucharist or Holy Communion we celebrate at 2800 metres in a hollow at the
very edge of a cliff overlooking the Simien mountain range. We sit in a circle
on chairs covered in hide from the local goats, with the smell of Eucalyptus
and the various sounds of insects, goats and birds all around us and a <b>lammergeier</b>
or Bearded Vulture circling overhead.
Here we lunch at the Ecolodge <b><a href="http://www.semienkossoye.com/accomodation.php" target="_blank">BefikerKossoye</a></b> and are proudly shown the
hotel accommodation by the owner - rooms clean and comfortable in their own
circular huts with great character, the Lodge reputedly sited where Her Majesty the
Queen stopped for tea one afternoon in 1965 while visiting Emperor <b>Haile
Selassie</b>. If this is true, the Queen certainly had very good taste. This
may be 30 km outside <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Gondar</st1:place></st1:city>
but the road is good and I cannot think of a better place to stay in the area
if you value nature and scenery and good organic food, veggie friendly, in the
most fabulous setting. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ccyoTR6S62rpYsUoXhsSUp0j-wdO2dRsZ2Gsc8iqjR-Si5DUaHHkCuXwapqYBV_sybFjTFPUxvJHafTVsCLgQsrVCb0WYbo-QPWxZ_eUC52V8SrAiqXKKk8WGTkWihkop7YHXPZE4cQ/s1600/P1100192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ccyoTR6S62rpYsUoXhsSUp0j-wdO2dRsZ2Gsc8iqjR-Si5DUaHHkCuXwapqYBV_sybFjTFPUxvJHafTVsCLgQsrVCb0WYbo-QPWxZ_eUC52V8SrAiqXKKk8WGTkWihkop7YHXPZE4cQ/s320/P1100192.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">enjoying our coffee in a very smoky front room!</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white;">Finally on the way back to
our equally fabulous hotel <b><a href="http://wisdomoftolerance.blogspot.com.es/2016/01/built-to-house-ark-of-covenant-debre.html" target="_blank">Mayleko Lodge</a></b> we stop to watch the injera bread being made and enjoy sampling it, with
coffee brewed for our benefit in a traditional house at the Falasha village.
There are basically two rooms. The back bedroom is for storage and with two
beds accommodates the parents and the younger children. The outer room is for
living, and at night the other children will sleep on skins or straw
mattresses. The floor is bare earth, smoothed down regularly with animal dung,
and in the rainy season a door will do its best to keep out the mud, I guess
sometimes with limited success. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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Soon we will be on our way to Lake Tana and the Blue Nile falls - when pilgrims will become tourists before our journey homewards...</div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-62547967813486623082016-01-14T07:00:00.000+00:002016-01-14T07:00:04.132+00:00The Fasil Ghebbi compound in Gondar <div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGTKCY_BRP4rKsC5LUgJrop32z9HDCuBu4xrqvuHUXpUsb2lJl6-W9Zc5uzU_NzHmLxUdY0xHtQyhRVYrh4ifKuUjEk2lDquhtY_2_zr0SYA_lnLH_rkhceyo9FQ7lJpckvRyXza6DbRU/s1600/P1100020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGTKCY_BRP4rKsC5LUgJrop32z9HDCuBu4xrqvuHUXpUsb2lJl6-W9Zc5uzU_NzHmLxUdY0xHtQyhRVYrh4ifKuUjEk2lDquhtY_2_zr0SYA_lnLH_rkhceyo9FQ7lJpckvRyXza6DbRU/s400/P1100020.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Egg Building in the Fasil Ghebbi compound Gondar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFXTOGQ-ODRw2siBV2J7kTLXH9LDM0XVHWKdLtltrTv6x2vx8wgJuTscIaXts9Eq7AZAyQaNz4GMuh6NVSBvqRC6QWNDxjvLo7S_ASYhji-khecjQz2VDnhSmlb4nPN3PS_jiIUhfH-w/s1600/P1100025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFXTOGQ-ODRw2siBV2J7kTLXH9LDM0XVHWKdLtltrTv6x2vx8wgJuTscIaXts9Eq7AZAyQaNz4GMuh6NVSBvqRC6QWNDxjvLo7S_ASYhji-khecjQz2VDnhSmlb4nPN3PS_jiIUhfH-w/s400/P1100025.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;">We are on a Christian
pilgrimage to </span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><b>Ethiopia</b></st1:place></st1:country-region><span style="background-color: white;">
with <a href="http://www.mccabe-travel.co.uk/choose-a-pilgrimage" target="_blank">McCabe Pilgrimages</a>. To quote from their website, "as pilgrims, we
travel to discover more about our world, the peoples who inhabit it and the
faith which shapes our understanding of life."</span></div>
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<span style="background: white;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8tA_fqa3LLC2zFcngD05y5-qHKTXnWiEEuJ2FvslJzptizodoohOY7GGu8hNeQQ0k3i0tAs7nCGmrgYEp-Cgs5MThyphenhyphenFUymc6tb4qfoWMvzMQB3t5FrxQu4ZtQvEn6M29pBcUoBAZPd8Q/s1600/P1100029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8tA_fqa3LLC2zFcngD05y5-qHKTXnWiEEuJ2FvslJzptizodoohOY7GGu8hNeQQ0k3i0tAs7nCGmrgYEp-Cgs5MThyphenhyphenFUymc6tb4qfoWMvzMQB3t5FrxQu4ZtQvEn6M29pBcUoBAZPd8Q/s320/P1100029.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the fireplace separating male and female rooms and note<br />the holes for horns to hang meat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyYB-pXwgVOEg2Mt68PkaGeBaQP9pTR-sUSS73QQ7xnj4-pnzfMD12cyui8DdfWxFA0HqyZwKYlfBVJRK4rBYIACo3Xa5EqXwu-1XCsT88X_nc28zCz89mUV5yQa8mAViWa_v7Q1O8cVw/s1600/P1100042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyYB-pXwgVOEg2Mt68PkaGeBaQP9pTR-sUSS73QQ7xnj4-pnzfMD12cyui8DdfWxFA0HqyZwKYlfBVJRK4rBYIACo3Xa5EqXwu-1XCsT88X_nc28zCz89mUV5yQa8mAViWa_v7Q1O8cVw/s320/P1100042.JPG" width="240" /></a><span style="background: white;">In <b>Ethiopia</b>, we are
discovering more about the largest Oriental Orthodox church in the world today…
and as with all <b>McCabe pilgrimages</b>, we try to engage with the local Christian
community and return home with fresh insights into our own faith, enriched by
all that we have experienced as we journey together. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwOaKCsjB7EkJ_GwYslBzlGl2-PdLm4Zzzxvx_cWzw9O5Mz4kj0aC0-R4cT9hyphenhyphenFWVBnRxtgKgld0CNExJoTGijvtbuQXB3xjQfpgiSkZnCJ6yYr6wfFl9CeJ9T-9M-S0Zzt0L0VeBQlE/s1600/P1100045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwOaKCsjB7EkJ_GwYslBzlGl2-PdLm4Zzzxvx_cWzw9O5Mz4kj0aC0-R4cT9hyphenhyphenFWVBnRxtgKgld0CNExJoTGijvtbuQXB3xjQfpgiSkZnCJ6yYr6wfFl9CeJ9T-9M-S0Zzt0L0VeBQlE/s320/P1100045.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of the lions' cages</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">We are nearing the end of our
visit to this fabulous country, and have already enjoyed many extraordinary
experiences. But we still look forward to much more. Today, after visiting
<b>Debre Birhan Selassie</b> (or Mountain of the Enlightened Trinity) we visit the Royal Enclosure or
<a href="http://www.worldheritagesite.org/sites/fasilghebbigondar.html%20%20I%20can%20leave%20my%20review%20and%20blog%20link%20here!" target="_blank"><b>Fasil Ghebbi compound</b></a> in <b>Gondar</b>, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979,
enclosing six castles and related buildings over an area of 70,000 square
metres in the heart of the city. This is a great fortress-city, residence of its
founder the Ethiopian emperor Fasilides and his successors.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtHLDji8-2-W_FOQzLYy3c1tIMS4gXMRmnUYPV0JsTRJfo1FGnrj0SwnGNgWHHVcVntipDAHW7djnqEDvO4qQoU7WlqoJPkLTpuPukEjnmQLBFS4ncDlIlt8h5MUH0gJwEhESeGbEdI4/s1600/P1100048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtHLDji8-2-W_FOQzLYy3c1tIMS4gXMRmnUYPV0JsTRJfo1FGnrj0SwnGNgWHHVcVntipDAHW7djnqEDvO4qQoU7WlqoJPkLTpuPukEjnmQLBFS4ncDlIlt8h5MUH0gJwEhESeGbEdI4/s320/P1100048.JPG" width="240" /></a><span style="background: white;"><br />
The Emperor was tired of the pattern of migration that had characterised the
lifestyle of so many of his forefathers, so he moved his capital here in 1636
AD. It is a photographer and tourist paradise, with great historical
significance, as well as a place where <span style="font-size: large;"><b>locals also like to come to stroll and
relax in a green haven of peace away from the city bustle and noise just the
other side of its high stone walls.</b></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white;">The locals call the first
castle we come to the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Egg</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Building</st1:placetype></st1:place>, because of the domed
tops of its watchtowers. Inside the main hall is split into two, segregating
the men and the women, sharing only a fireplace built into the wall between the
two rooms. We are shown holes in the wall where meat was hung on horns because
metal hooks would spoil the flavour. These horns are also seen in the Turkish
Baths on the site, in this case used to hang clothes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaq0hWffHXOqnxtzmhbRA78y3Wg8I71cLb3CLacq4fYxg8rCOBdQ_YF3xUvMjIJ1Hr3c1rkfqA4qtW5UP7JGIIA5Ea8_g3bPsD4JrZGix2bp94iYcLQHh9RMZaur1e1lBe9yDrZuoNwTE/s1600/P1100052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaq0hWffHXOqnxtzmhbRA78y3Wg8I71cLb3CLacq4fYxg8rCOBdQ_YF3xUvMjIJ1Hr3c1rkfqA4qtW5UP7JGIIA5Ea8_g3bPsD4JrZGix2bp94iYcLQHh9RMZaur1e1lBe9yDrZuoNwTE/s320/P1100052.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">horn hooks for clothes in the Turkish Baths</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">Three of the castles are
interconnected by trenches. We see the so called Window of Love, where the Emperor
and his wife would apparently like to sit enjoying the pleasant view to the
bridge and the people going about their business outside the castle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background: white;">A beehive high up in a tree
is wrapped in savannah grass to protect it from the rain. Honey is introduced
to attract bees and there can be as many as four harvests in one year if
conditions are favourable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPrRKDR_nKYBFVXsx7jUwAGzgRm5PSAOJUIXCHPSNeZHzcYg4TD4_01RNAY4UYE7FminLFiistvjJE9aovvL_Yez9riRLdMyhvEjbRKolcNk-RSQiAijFToIj8WZOEHMe9JobIXpz0d4/s1600/P1100060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPrRKDR_nKYBFVXsx7jUwAGzgRm5PSAOJUIXCHPSNeZHzcYg4TD4_01RNAY4UYE7FminLFiistvjJE9aovvL_Yez9riRLdMyhvEjbRKolcNk-RSQiAijFToIj8WZOEHMe9JobIXpz0d4/s320/P1100060.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Mentewab Castle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">We also see the old lion
cages - where the poor beasts were kept until as recently as the 1960s - some
guidebooks say the 1990s - to entertain the residents of the castles and their
guests. There are stables and a stable yard to accommodate the horses of guests
as well, and a banquet hall. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">The sixth and last castle we
visit was the only one commissioned by a female, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mentewab" target="_blank">Empress Mentewab</a>, acting as
regent for her young son, Iyasu II. It is the most impressive and well preserved of them all, decorated on the outside with Gondarine crosses. We can only view from outside the gates - we are not allowed near. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcfX_Jz2pAHFPxL__q0-fw2P6wDCvkwgpnNFLES6AKPmUiWzSTfCHo_1eGb9FOs2M3eCZqqhOdaG7QoxYLkGK8Kg09cXu8bxbi0j7YjvSPyUMkkY-mtg-dj5xj8m6gCZcGk-kxBSBfUis/s1600/P1100069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcfX_Jz2pAHFPxL__q0-fw2P6wDCvkwgpnNFLES6AKPmUiWzSTfCHo_1eGb9FOs2M3eCZqqhOdaG7QoxYLkGK8Kg09cXu8bxbi0j7YjvSPyUMkkY-mtg-dj5xj8m6gCZcGk-kxBSBfUis/s320/P1100069.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">entrance to the King's Baths</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg-9oBVFdZAvuJJ_4m8woI2qkQVJEfNuKVEdU37sT1qD3ImHhQv-vKthpMVUA-pkRHtC_AV5_4M1KUC2ylirCNMCVKYC59B9dU_KtB_q0_0VxSRacojsqKnwT-QONiVLt2DAKjpRAx0HQ/s1600/P1100076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg-9oBVFdZAvuJJ_4m8woI2qkQVJEfNuKVEdU37sT1qD3ImHhQv-vKthpMVUA-pkRHtC_AV5_4M1KUC2ylirCNMCVKYC59B9dU_KtB_q0_0VxSRacojsqKnwT-QONiVLt2DAKjpRAx0HQ/s320/P1100076.JPG" width="234" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the channel to fill the King's Baths</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">We drive back through the
town towards the <b>King's Baths</b>, also attributed to the same Emperor, and the site
we are told of one of the best Epiphany festivals of the <b>Ethiopian Orthodox
Church</b>. Here 10,000 or more pilgrims will gather annually and the huge
reservoir is filled up from the local river for this occasion. It takes a month
to fill. The <b><span style="font-size: large;">Ark of the Covenant</span></b> is brought from the local church in procession
and the water is blessed. Everyone will try to be sprinkled with this Holy
water, and many will swim in the water as well. There is song, dance, and a
great mixture of religious and secular activity. Having experienced the recent
festival in <b>Lalibela</b> we can well imagine what an incredible sight this must be.
Scaffolding is erected at the far end of the bath for tourists - everyone else
has to join the milling crowds, no doubt many climbing any available trees for
better views of the activities. Johannes tells us that this festival of
Epiphany is also a traditional time for dating. Boys would buy lemons and throw
them at the girl of their fancy. If she picks it up he knows he is in with a
chance. Nowadays, he says, they expect Apple iPods!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJ2uMO24YTWQrMeR2eui_wDWPCKZAOYyeI23pVYSHFb8aCQFdC16wFBFBVqrPBpmoCUYjObIww3mAOPJJXN1TZuYOV6w50uRgZz5WnXKj5MDZgnRizUKIs-H4brf-C68XedSv-agBSnY/s1600/P1100079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJ2uMO24YTWQrMeR2eui_wDWPCKZAOYyeI23pVYSHFb8aCQFdC16wFBFBVqrPBpmoCUYjObIww3mAOPJJXN1TZuYOV6w50uRgZz5WnXKj5MDZgnRizUKIs-H4brf-C68XedSv-agBSnY/s400/P1100079.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the King's Baths</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background: white;">It's been a full day </span><br />
<span style="background: white;">and
tiring. </span><br />
<span style="background: white;">But we somehow find the energy at the <b>Four Sisters restaurant</b> to join
in the dancing around the tables with the curious shoulder, neck and arm
movements - even somehow employing bosoms and hips - which seem quite unique to
<st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Ethiopia</st1:place></st1:country-region>.
The dancers display incredible energy and flexibility which we cannot hope to
achieve so soon in our stay - although some of us have a reasonable attempt in
a day or so in a night club in Bahir Dar! Dancing and entertainment is good
enough reason to come to this restaurant if you are in <b>Gondar</b>, but the food is
also fabulous - many different traditional Ethiopian dishes, alongside some
more westernised offerings, all very well labelled and very veggie friendly -
and as much as you can eat - come and come again style. It was a very good
evening out, a great way to unwind and relax after what have been some very
full days. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz8WIk1hzbqUoz-Bjxw3s0K5PYKXpXlGHyXvM8_MrvPXRmeY8bF132RGElIaN7hhg0lqbaWBHpe2xKgOKNXZ3tQTnDy7sRz7BtyDtd2Jsacn1dyCQt51SneFctJs7dTXoJ3afpeewlrxI/s1600/P1100081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz8WIk1hzbqUoz-Bjxw3s0K5PYKXpXlGHyXvM8_MrvPXRmeY8bF132RGElIaN7hhg0lqbaWBHpe2xKgOKNXZ3tQTnDy7sRz7BtyDtd2Jsacn1dyCQt51SneFctJs7dTXoJ3afpeewlrxI/s320/P1100081.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white;">The sun sets over <b>Mayleko Lodge</b>. Tomorrow is Sunday and we
will return to the church we saw today to experience a service Ethiopian
Orthodox style…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-54873495202734850912016-01-13T16:58:00.002+00:002016-01-13T16:58:49.789+00:00Atheism in religious education - Why I will not sign the petition<div class="MsoNormal">
Every three days at the moment I am using this blog to post
about the continuing story of our Ethiopian pilgrimage. If you came to the site
expecting that, you only have to wait until tomorrow for the next episode. But
I hope you will read on…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As I struggled to open a new DVD packet I wondered why it
had to be so difficult to gain access through all the cellophane and stickers.
Cynically perhaps, I thought this may be an anti-theft device. But then am I so
wrong? We seem to be living increasingly in a dishonest world - where the
prevailing attitude seems to be that if we can get away with it, then why not.
Shop lifting statistics are appalling. I see petty pilfering all around me. Without the cellophane I assume the fear is that someone would remove the DVD in the shop and walk out with it without paying. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzG9j4cc7ZlRkSwMP0Khrlsolc1KkGDB4o3q0qElhQr3Q7MFg1_nUpeQAE9ISjkgz-o3CM5gppNEY5WnKb7hG4IgodZcUd51oddkqIq0eSPwilAnAk4yAbGEy8ZcnuxG3_KQlz_1wb3s/s1600/P1090511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzG9j4cc7ZlRkSwMP0Khrlsolc1KkGDB4o3q0qElhQr3Q7MFg1_nUpeQAE9ISjkgz-o3CM5gppNEY5WnKb7hG4IgodZcUd51oddkqIq0eSPwilAnAk4yAbGEy8ZcnuxG3_KQlz_1wb3s/s320/P1090511.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where the Ark of the Covenant holding the <br />Ten Commandments is reputedly kept in Axum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was brought up in a Christian culture and household, I learnt
the Ten Commandments by heart and knew that it was wrong to steal. It would
never ever have occurred to me to take anything from any shop on the long walk
from the school through the town to the school bus. Now our local town has to
impose a rule: no more than two students in the shop at any time and all bags
to be left outside. I find that shocking. "Thou shalt not steal"
still guides my life - that and all the other Commandments too. But that is not
what I see all around me. What has happened to basic morality? A morality that
has been grounded in religious values for so many years. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have just been asked to sign a petition to tell <b>Nicky
Morgan</b> to teach humanism and atheism as part of religious education in British
schools. I won't. Whatever the November 2015 High Court judgment and the
subsequent Department for Education statement say, religious education should
be about - guess what - religion, in the same way that history lessons should
teach history, science lessons teach science, and so on. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfe6dmo-CmIUQdVZoZeKACdXOgI78PWORryJSsc9-JTzhqwPWHrPBEtheIES1xw3zovTiMFY9gBNrgPIdFsc-STwdoxgH77fzaI1lgwo1rymEfDPV2Mqxdcus386iRnVFrbP0ybvXnifw/s1600/P1100104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfe6dmo-CmIUQdVZoZeKACdXOgI78PWORryJSsc9-JTzhqwPWHrPBEtheIES1xw3zovTiMFY9gBNrgPIdFsc-STwdoxgH77fzaI1lgwo1rymEfDPV2Mqxdcus386iRnVFrbP0ybvXnifw/s320/P1100104.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worship Ethiopian Orthodox style</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The organisation <a href="https://atheists.org/activism/resources/what-is-atheism" target="_blank">American Atheists</a> says on its website that
"the only common thread that ties all atheists together is a lack of
belief in gods and supernatural beings." They stress that it is not a
belief system, or a disbelief in gods or a denial of gods, neither is it a
religion. Why therefore should it be included in Religious Studies. There is no
place for it there - indeed nothing to teach about it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we teach about different religions, we teach about understanding
those different religions, including the moral values which they support. And only with understanding can we foster respect. And
I do not see that respect for religious beliefs from where I am sitting - it is
certainly lacking among some of the new angry militant atheists who are anything
but neutral and seem to argue their non-beliefs in their own fundamentalist way,
almost like a new "religion." And an irreligious society does not seem to have served our moral and ethical values too well.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
All of this is behind why I wrote <i>Why Religions Work</i>. The title could have been <i>Why Religions Matter</i> - because that is part of my story, and a very
important one. Religions are social capital writ large, in many different ways.
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>But there is a subtler more spiritual and transcendent message in the book
which is not always being picked up on by the readers and in reviews. And that
is a shame.</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Because whether we like it or not we are all spiritual
animals. And if we share a common spirit, then the religions have so much more
in common, share so much more than is often given credit for - and this I
believe is a key to interfaith harmony. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuLNOMAccjnvNDAxvDVUMAvcx-wBnTlmaRXfPsnyXdFgYSWkAyNRyhTIsX5f6zzLa0sxbPMuYWzpnpvP8Y7KP6TandnWKHyiESgoJ0QCl33_CmBiSq2x7BTGK32-mWkHYxKgA2qZmhhcU/s1600/P1090989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuLNOMAccjnvNDAxvDVUMAvcx-wBnTlmaRXfPsnyXdFgYSWkAyNRyhTIsX5f6zzLa0sxbPMuYWzpnpvP8Y7KP6TandnWKHyiESgoJ0QCl33_CmBiSq2x7BTGK32-mWkHYxKgA2qZmhhcU/s320/P1090989.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background: white; font-size: 12pt;">Debre Birhan Selassie<br />church wall paintings Ethiopia </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Of one thing I am sure. There is simply not enough respect
for religions, particularly in the Western world. In writing <i>Why Religions Work</i> I wanted to make a
serious contribution to understanding why we all need to support religion as
well as spirituality. Further, I wanted to explore how a global spiritual
awareness, an appreciation of spiritual human inter-connectivity and therefore
shared responsibilities, may help; why different ideas of spirituality,
alongside advances in the scientific understanding of empathy and
consciousness, may be closing the gap between science and religion, between
spirituality and religion, perhaps even helping to forge a clearer path towards
better inter- religious and inter-denominational understanding; and why this
matters for the future of our world. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">We need spirituality. And we need religions. We need them
both very much indeed. And there is nothing to teach about atheism in a class
on religions. So I will not sign that petition.</span></b></div>
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Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-83229577392251719882016-01-11T07:30:00.000+00:002016-01-11T07:30:10.170+00:00Built to house the Ark of the Covenant - Debre Birhan Selassie<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaoQGIbKsnA-OURtTvGyYZRCN_ypH4P3X9LVCizCBQ3Li5wf9oJlZjU6iQPYSqjl2Z181wjUt1RyV5F32gQ0dJ4jlOmspzTec_7nKYhYQksw_C3HuTtH2n1tH9mSLZtsj-6MKFgHsf4M/s1600/P1090924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaoQGIbKsnA-OURtTvGyYZRCN_ypH4P3X9LVCizCBQ3Li5wf9oJlZjU6iQPYSqjl2Z181wjUt1RyV5F32gQ0dJ4jlOmspzTec_7nKYhYQksw_C3HuTtH2n1tH9mSLZtsj-6MKFgHsf4M/s320/P1090924.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heavily laden donkeys on way to market </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYEuIBbhaYAmwP9z-W9rvYnfuNH9ku1aO_94zkmoujyFiKzaHl4-l9DKsI_0NZ9Lojk7Ovtsv_WO4OtogTeyw1l2IqQCoiOezpA-t5H13VG_wz5B5RWDLKFfqIDGUJ6v0qO9NOMQx5nks/s1600/P1090931.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYEuIBbhaYAmwP9z-W9rvYnfuNH9ku1aO_94zkmoujyFiKzaHl4-l9DKsI_0NZ9Lojk7Ovtsv_WO4OtogTeyw1l2IqQCoiOezpA-t5H13VG_wz5B5RWDLKFfqIDGUJ6v0qO9NOMQx5nks/s400/P1090931.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Airport Ethiopian style at Lalibela</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It is Saturday, market day, in <b>Lalibela</b>, and we are set to
fly to <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Gondar</b></st1:city>,
the "Camelot of Africa", famous for its medieval castles and
churches. In particular we will enjoy a tour of the Royal <b>Enclosure of Fasil
Ghebbi </b>and the most incredibly beautiful church interior.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxK0b4yiD3O2goFpRYvdVDdnwCwKZNf7NGIqlq_2EzxVsy2peeGFxLbXYWEieLwadzYCNoVKB5o_zSwWfkaT3Sd-EABvIERBdz9JknkLwMaxbJG2haHZ65Cns7kHEU7pq8gBqx5kPdfRw/s1600/P1090966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxK0b4yiD3O2goFpRYvdVDdnwCwKZNf7NGIqlq_2EzxVsy2peeGFxLbXYWEieLwadzYCNoVKB5o_zSwWfkaT3Sd-EABvIERBdz9JknkLwMaxbJG2haHZ65Cns7kHEU7pq8gBqx5kPdfRw/s320/P1090966.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cattle on way to market</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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As our coach makes its way along the twisting road towards
the airport we pass swarms of people and animals walking in both directions,
to and from the market. This is subsistence living. People sell to buy what
they need most in that moment, be it food or fuel or clothes or animals. But
market is about much more than that. Johannes tells us that the market is also
a place to spot stolen goods, to find and court the girls, to find mediators to
settle disputes of all kinds, and simply for communication, the oil of human
relationship and society.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjbTM26WDpzZHOxnl6hqeUzq2kscXjoKyzBymlG7dSOQebyO1FeeHquBCwwp-HZk3PfBjr0emUSG5-e35HvppY5e9PVESk-S8rExs3Ossqra0DcuIuHwgBfB64jILyAxnUYK0XauGDrbw/s1600/P1090982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjbTM26WDpzZHOxnl6hqeUzq2kscXjoKyzBymlG7dSOQebyO1FeeHquBCwwp-HZk3PfBjr0emUSG5-e35HvppY5e9PVESk-S8rExs3Ossqra0DcuIuHwgBfB64jILyAxnUYK0XauGDrbw/s320/P1090982.JPG" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">entrance to the church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The federal police check our visas at the airport perimeter,
then all our bags go through security screening at the entrance into the
building and we go through the usual full security search ourselves after check
in to go through to departures. In the light of the awful <st1:city w:st="on">Paris</st1:city> terrorist attack that we have just
heard about this all seems very essential. There was a French party at our
hotel last night in <b>Lalibela</b> and they were visibly and justifiably distressed
by the news back home. </div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">I wrote in my diary for the day: "Jesus wept. God
must be weeping". </span></b></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQtVX9cmVpWdITXDUx5ESbwQElBGEKOmdblCMcuORduNtb7SacFoZXalJ6zaiNPHtMH6VTrD1f5qtQW1ou01_YiXwnloscyHUJ_M6Lx_d1peSk1QETb98-AWItMxjmJSja4d1a8y8OlI/s1600/P1090989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQtVX9cmVpWdITXDUx5ESbwQElBGEKOmdblCMcuORduNtb7SacFoZXalJ6zaiNPHtMH6VTrD1f5qtQW1ou01_YiXwnloscyHUJ_M6Lx_d1peSk1QETb98-AWItMxjmJSja4d1a8y8OlI/s320/P1090989.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Icons of Holy Trinity and Crucifixion<br />above the Holy of Holies entrance </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8e0PJsYn-s-h3w-2QHUkGRtMCvLxz8zPV2lz4i_mV-pioid7KJAqeEqvCj1o20XeGm1dizPlb7KhgLdrcVLovmTFEWKa2D4X99EpIeD-zruxIGZZlMaOgKQ455d6-26-KSoDiDofC5w/s1600/P1090958.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8e0PJsYn-s-h3w-2QHUkGRtMCvLxz8zPV2lz4i_mV-pioid7KJAqeEqvCj1o20XeGm1dizPlb7KhgLdrcVLovmTFEWKa2D4X99EpIeD-zruxIGZZlMaOgKQ455d6-26-KSoDiDofC5w/s320/P1090958.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mayleko Lodge hotel - lovely</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background: white;"><i>"Jesus wept" - John
11: v. 35 - the shortest verse in the Bible, with a load of significance. Jesus
wept because of his humanity, weeping with those who weep, because he is full
of love for mankind. How he must weep now.</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white;">It is a very short flight
from <b>Lalibela</b> to <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><b>Gondar</b></st1:place></st1:city>
and soon we are back in a coach for the 10 minute drive to our hotel - <b>Mayleko
Lodge</b> - I had worried about this - thinking of Gatwick and Heathrow and flight
paths and noise! But I didn't have to. There are only a couple or so flights a
day it seems - and the planes are small anyway and quiet. And the hotel is fabulous!
We all have our own cottages - in the traditional local thatched style, with huge rooms, spotlessly clean and with all mod
cons. including huge walk-in showers (Just use the water for a shower when it
is available - like much of <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Ethiopia</st1:place></st1:country-region>
water is scarce and the supply temperamental) and massive balconies where we can soak up the sunshine and the view. And it is hot. A few take
advantage of the short while available before lunch to enjoy a swim in the
pool. The birdlife here is super - we are surrounded by birdsong in pretty
gardens with different coloured hibiscus lining the paths leading up to the
pool and the restaurant at the top of the site, which affords great views over
the countryside. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWqF5KBwXgNcojlDGjNvjPgCttmV_VIMMHiMBuZ0dd1q1FhvSfh4m9mOzCAva-qBFi363dUoAuCBj6eOL5_r9vxOsA_0FUO4muk216q_Fu0qpWIQiN8e8cbMfY4S9HMeRYG5b9jOCBiI/s1600/P1100007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWqF5KBwXgNcojlDGjNvjPgCttmV_VIMMHiMBuZ0dd1q1FhvSfh4m9mOzCAva-qBFi363dUoAuCBj6eOL5_r9vxOsA_0FUO4muk216q_Fu0qpWIQiN8e8cbMfY4S9HMeRYG5b9jOCBiI/s320/P1100007.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">vultures outside the church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZf4-6KBDOTlnRNT6LUBar9F8vWSw6qqbUVD4MpfXIWG5oU7PTlAT7QbmwNGG3p7ti7CPjxaslF0rt7M8zxTeJXOlrTD_DdSNP-FPGwon44M-awDpQC3l_-Rx_BQN85oNFfD1i6yDvoPg/s1600/P1090995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZf4-6KBDOTlnRNT6LUBar9F8vWSw6qqbUVD4MpfXIWG5oU7PTlAT7QbmwNGG3p7ti7CPjxaslF0rt7M8zxTeJXOlrTD_DdSNP-FPGwon44M-awDpQC3l_-Rx_BQN85oNFfD1i6yDvoPg/s320/P1090995.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wall paintings</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white;">Soon we are back in the coach for our first attraction of the day - <b><a href="http://www.sacred-destinations.com/ethiopia/gondar-debre-birhan-selassie-church" target="_blank">Debre Birhan Selassie</a></b> (or
Mountain of the Enlightened Trinity) - the only church in <b>Gondar</b> which escaped
the 1888 Mahdist invasion from the Sudan unscathed - legend tells us that an angry
swarm of bees intervened to keep the soldiers back, with the help of the
Archangel Michael holding a flaming sword. All the other churches in the city
were torched. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKil-u9xEjwzCPLKO5RYgEN4ZDNELFfYPrKSWSH2VTvplI7dcAfWGNi2feR_SYox0mhR3vIQM7I3zUyeWg9Wc4m4zrozZTTthkUNGRGEXFwPx6epFNisDF1xRlr_j4hrQnBZBOxs1IzFk/s1600/P1100009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKil-u9xEjwzCPLKO5RYgEN4ZDNELFfYPrKSWSH2VTvplI7dcAfWGNi2feR_SYox0mhR3vIQM7I3zUyeWg9Wc4m4zrozZTTthkUNGRGEXFwPx6epFNisDF1xRlr_j4hrQnBZBOxs1IzFk/s320/P1100009.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Debre Birhan Selassie</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>This church is incredible for
the beautiful eighteenth paintings that totally adorn its inner walls and
ceiling. </i></span></b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyp-vRcrxsrATFaIqKa2rl7g83G98Ahobn3H8pklii5f3XZajzkC9Qy8wovXTlQOjcC1oKfLwirgrVEg0rjJKD-LOMfAkf6IYqUDnUMJmm8y9XMAGN03W9Kk8yEGfpthaQVo01pV3IUFA/s1600/P1100014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyp-vRcrxsrATFaIqKa2rl7g83G98Ahobn3H8pklii5f3XZajzkC9Qy8wovXTlQOjcC1oKfLwirgrVEg0rjJKD-LOMfAkf6IYqUDnUMJmm8y9XMAGN03W9Kk8yEGfpthaQVo01pV3IUFA/s320/P1100014.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">school books for sale on Gondar pavement</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white;">They variously represent the Life of Christ, the lives of early Christian
saints and their rather nasty martyrdoms - all watched over by hundreds of
painted angels on the ceiling and arches. The church was built in the 1690s to
the same dimensions as the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem, reputedly to house
the Ark of the Covenant when it was brought over to Ethiopia. We will visit the church again tomorrow, Sunday, to observe a service in progress. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white;">The street sights as we drive through Gondar are endlessly fascinating. Blue tuk tuks everywhere - hundreds are watching a boxing match in one of the large squares - street vendors everywhere - </span><span style="background-color: white;">we even see our first motor car!!</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span></div>
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Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-32833165654074410792016-01-08T07:30:00.000+00:002016-01-08T07:30:07.909+00:00Asheton Mariam, Lalibela, Coffee and Lammergeiers<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2O7FOwLRVr7Arw7ilRDPlPRU_KKo0zbJFEFWT1R7SfZpqj9o2CZYioAt9kdTpTlQlZJrkPDkwH14qQg3VxsAaQtmniBc6VAXIgsHJKjNoAsb879ufjUV_jte3hHNWzvyif0PZkfEMbUk/s1600/P1090830.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2O7FOwLRVr7Arw7ilRDPlPRU_KKo0zbJFEFWT1R7SfZpqj9o2CZYioAt9kdTpTlQlZJrkPDkwH14qQg3VxsAaQtmniBc6VAXIgsHJKjNoAsb879ufjUV_jte3hHNWzvyif0PZkfEMbUk/s400/P1090830.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the pathway to Asheton Mariam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I cannot believe how much we did today. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtzjHayGiH5iNrXy9naVef4JErIi4HMKXi_wmI-_yFTjLOwtxT9vghU7rjPH4oIQQiFLwN5sAxNv39rf5MTsjGx_tO5yIXbHTjlP5j-DxNJ-evyLvbDM1nY-o5UedX3lPuYD80wMT-4xQ/s1600/P1090842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtzjHayGiH5iNrXy9naVef4JErIi4HMKXi_wmI-_yFTjLOwtxT9vghU7rjPH4oIQQiFLwN5sAxNv39rf5MTsjGx_tO5yIXbHTjlP5j-DxNJ-evyLvbDM1nY-o5UedX3lPuYD80wMT-4xQ/s320/P1090842.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">deacons and drummers in service </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Two hours after being stimulated by the spiritual and physical experiences of feast day at <a href="http://wisdomoftolerance.blogspot.com.es/2016/01/feast-day-in-lalibea-at-naakuto-laab.html" target="_blank">Na'akuto La'ab monastery</a> and church we have bumped our way up an incredibly
rough road to the mountain top high above Lalibela and we find ourselves
walking along the footpath high up above the valley to the church of <b>Asheton
Mariam</b> sitting at 3200 metres. It is a lovely walk on a wide and safe path
although at the start and at the top there are a few difficult uneven and steep
steps to negotiate - always with willing local helpers who for the expectation
of a small tip will help you negotiate the hazards, not always very expertly.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgENVkoTAGjCYe4lBgvwciZcz4rbAI-UHQoDsEufyEs68nidnW8EBy28K5xUzb3yVOVHRG5zQpHRo6w-e4Ip4adCQtx-1H8LMYERxykqMDn0A-QaYkMYxOmzrRDTSZoJeE4HVAwaPHD270/s1600/P1090863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgENVkoTAGjCYe4lBgvwciZcz4rbAI-UHQoDsEufyEs68nidnW8EBy28K5xUzb3yVOVHRG5zQpHRo6w-e4Ip4adCQtx-1H8LMYERxykqMDn0A-QaYkMYxOmzrRDTSZoJeE4HVAwaPHD270/s320/P1090863.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Priest proudly displays the Book of Miracle<br />of Mary in the church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguWNvAwDRuqslsm_cxe6rCVX2jQbsmq5Yds0bWNAT8PeH_Arj7CGmpDOu85Q6BN6CujaGMPjOGbj9g3BgHIjChbNprDBUwKa_YufFeJkLfOgY6v05dUa6FP42QMqwqXPJ5Z2N6zyZGQyc/s1600/P1090845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguWNvAwDRuqslsm_cxe6rCVX2jQbsmq5Yds0bWNAT8PeH_Arj7CGmpDOu85Q6BN6CujaGMPjOGbj9g3BgHIjChbNprDBUwKa_YufFeJkLfOgY6v05dUa6FP42QMqwqXPJ5Z2N6zyZGQyc/s320/P1090845.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of us are privileged to sit with the deacons chanting<br />the liturgy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Rocks piled high at the sides of the road up to the church
wait for further road improvements but, intentionally or otherwise, serve as
crash barriers meanwhile. The drop in places is scary!</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1Cwsk1O36ID29iWHPQtBWzoc9BmG0xvibeXLSdgS3eYIxSH3irLV0Ian2ZfvV8OfkwhJDmgjpIwJhdgSO1ajcVCTVqIXfbp1X6ioF3bYbXtzQk9H1fObWAI5YVEnaJsJnrJ3HK06TS8/s1600/P1090872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1Cwsk1O36ID29iWHPQtBWzoc9BmG0xvibeXLSdgS3eYIxSH3irLV0Ian2ZfvV8OfkwhJDmgjpIwJhdgSO1ajcVCTVqIXfbp1X6ioF3bYbXtzQk9H1fObWAI5YVEnaJsJnrJ3HK06TS8/s320/P1090872.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">view from path to Asheton Mariam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We look down to the town of <st1:city w:st="on">Lalibela</st1:city> way below and see the impressive
terracing where barley, wheat and tef are grown. There are also many eucalyptus
trees, imported into the country and creating their own problems - they are
thirsty and compete for valuable water. They also have shallow roots which
contribute nothing to stabilizing the soil and preventing the very real problem
of soil erosion.</div>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_rhvZSQryeaK_4OIMk3vnzowpDV2F72Zk5M_E8dNUqSetFU8Rw75eeOaJ38SJ36Vm5vp_ESFeXUCpAC2vwqstuSVHPOb2Q3qXRKItqaoGJ2Ne3eWdWSg3x-EuyZ9UW8PNGF8N3UaKiS0/s1600/P1090877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_rhvZSQryeaK_4OIMk3vnzowpDV2F72Zk5M_E8dNUqSetFU8Rw75eeOaJ38SJ36Vm5vp_ESFeXUCpAC2vwqstuSVHPOb2Q3qXRKItqaoGJ2Ne3eWdWSg3x-EuyZ9UW8PNGF8N3UaKiS0/s320/P1090877.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a short section of the path was tricky</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Once we arrive at <b>Asheton Mariam</b> the priest is very proud to show us the
treasures of his church. First he holds the original cross of <b>King Lalibela</b>,
followed by two rather special processional crosses, one depicting the 12
apostles with Christ in the middle. Other priceless items he shows us include a
special 13th century several sided icon, a 15th century religious painting on
goatskin, a 14th century beautifully illustrated book of the Miracle of St Mary. This is not well preserved but the organic colours are still brilliant, helped by the
darkened interior of the church. It has a case made of cow/oxen skin which we
are all allowed to feel!! Horror! <br />
<br /></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVKoDQ2mnUEpcU4eJxEPUntr2-gkFAgXFPUgA0-SiIfEy57Sy0wxQ9znGsqaNCFYpU2b5vSsb6XF1kCZR7bCqTV16a3zJBzLJIuzoRsFc_LmpiAj773kCFqXOJjYa0mBzpu5t0UPSk6s/s1600/P1090881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVKoDQ2mnUEpcU4eJxEPUntr2-gkFAgXFPUgA0-SiIfEy57Sy0wxQ9znGsqaNCFYpU2b5vSsb6XF1kCZR7bCqTV16a3zJBzLJIuzoRsFc_LmpiAj773kCFqXOJjYa0mBzpu5t0UPSk6s/s320/P1090881.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">souvenirs for sale on path to Asheton Mariam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After all receiving an individual blessing from the priest, which is thorough and quite moving, we make our way back to the coach, many of us unable to resist the charming
souvenirs being peddled by the equally enchanting children on the path going
down. Before boarding the coach we are treated to an impromptu coffee brewed
and served by a local lad al fresco - we perch on rocks around a piece of waste
ground and the plastic mugs have certainly not been in a dish washer!<br />
<br /></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaKhN9iOZtwIVfiuTrs850I323DRqb0dfEPN0AV5ofUM52pGWRAB0N4p2mkJuwU1-MI-lTxXcwrbjM2uqJ1Y8QFHKWzinIv5yGUv-lyucllnUsiMBAsfzGqwSKhcpjjquBdyW6oevCOqM/s1600/P1090883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaKhN9iOZtwIVfiuTrs850I323DRqb0dfEPN0AV5ofUM52pGWRAB0N4p2mkJuwU1-MI-lTxXcwrbjM2uqJ1Y8QFHKWzinIv5yGUv-lyucllnUsiMBAsfzGqwSKhcpjjquBdyW6oevCOqM/s320/P1090883.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">impromptu coffee at bottom of path to Asheton Mariam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We are soon back in <b>Lalibela</b> in the Seven Olives restaurant enjoying a well
deserved and much needed rest and lunch. The spinach soup was excellent, as was the
veggie spaghetti dish, although there was as ever far too much. Johannes then
takes us to a more formal traditional coffee ceremony. This, he explains, is usually
a very intimate community event - where many share coffee together in each
other's homes in a social occasion that can last two hours or so - both during
the week and especially after church, with gossip circulated, problems shared,
news disseminated. These ceremonies start with a prayer and end with a family
blessing, we are told. The grass strewn around the floor is for a fertility
wish.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMzIR_LwocmacUq_xqy1PGDexvWTV39NH0Hb-kuix3iFfxoBQsns_VwDNF_AM7x0v-FYwvvmLZQbrD_zcHfvnmq5SOMgks4DDZdn6GA1VPT8TJFxT6savsqogMvMhctIPvqSyOoil5dEk/s1600/P1090896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMzIR_LwocmacUq_xqy1PGDexvWTV39NH0Hb-kuix3iFfxoBQsns_VwDNF_AM7x0v-FYwvvmLZQbrD_zcHfvnmq5SOMgks4DDZdn6GA1VPT8TJFxT6savsqogMvMhctIPvqSyOoil5dEk/s400/P1090896.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Supermarket Ethiopian style</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We watch the lady roast the coffee beans, then grind them, boil them up
and finally serve the freshly brewed and strong black drink into small and
traditional cups. We are also offered an organic honey wine, with popcorn and a
kind of crisp like pitta bread, before a glass of strong spirit - distilled
using, variously, barley, wheat, sorghum, corn or hops. This is normally
accompanied by toasts offered by different members of the gathered community,
somewhat reminiscent of the <a href="http://wisdomoftolerance.blogspot.com.es/2014/08/pilgrims-on-journey-our-stay-near.html" target="_blank">toasting ceremonies</a> or <b>supra</b> we learnt about on our
pilgrimage to Caucasian <st1:country-region w:st="on">Georgia</st1:country-region>. The brew is strong. All the while a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bearded_vulture" target="_blank"><b>Lammergeier</b></a>
or Bearded Vulture circles outside over the roof tops. We see quite a few of these during our trip.</div>
<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgktUKuKWXnG7Prsxfg9QadHa5fSZUzdzVcV5KSR9CO5FtS0dPiYF3bfxu-ecx5fG6J1QMjSIQvZrdCLManltRfwP0vUoU5YY_6UOB9MYhwKktR_KVz2wXT7ETy7XGzNgYUVLMtLNleSRo/s1600/P1090906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgktUKuKWXnG7Prsxfg9QadHa5fSZUzdzVcV5KSR9CO5FtS0dPiYF3bfxu-ecx5fG6J1QMjSIQvZrdCLManltRfwP0vUoU5YY_6UOB9MYhwKktR_KVz2wXT7ETy7XGzNgYUVLMtLNleSRo/s320/P1090906.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">at the coffee ceremony demonstration</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We are now truly exhausted, and some of us perhaps even a little unsteady from generous spirit servings at our coffee ceremony, and really glad to return quite early to
the hotel, soon after 3pm, for rest and
recuperation. Some sleep, I pack, before we convene for our evening prayer meeting which I lead this time. We then walk out locally for supper at the Lalibela Cultural
Centre.<br />
Tomorrow is
another day - we are off to <st1:city w:st="on"><b>Gondar</b></st1:city>;
a very different experience and a wonderful hotel as well.....</div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-80933734291996218852016-01-05T07:30:00.000+00:002016-01-05T17:41:59.055+00:00Feast Day in Lalibela at Na'akuto La'ab<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLJMFGI2fQXMt3k0Bg9lh_MLybhSX7CUWeTgXqfknPQ86lS7oEoWwWrAwV8YpVj2K5iALSu-dz1THqoziZ-MMqxCaH2oLlBLWAraCuA8GmaN7lU_r1fCVWkDPYcaNMYMYnNyuje24gApA/s1600/P1090793.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLJMFGI2fQXMt3k0Bg9lh_MLybhSX7CUWeTgXqfknPQ86lS7oEoWwWrAwV8YpVj2K5iALSu-dz1THqoziZ-MMqxCaH2oLlBLWAraCuA8GmaN7lU_r1fCVWkDPYcaNMYMYnNyuje24gApA/s320/P1090793.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">all the white clad pilgrims on the road on way to church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">This was the most unusual day of the whole trip</span></b> - something
none of us had ever experienced before. And what an experience it was. Friday
13th November 2015 - (3 Hadar 2008 in the Ethiopian calendar) the third
Ethiopian day of the third Ethiopian month and an important feast day for the
Orthodox Christian community in Lalibela, so </div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>we change our itinerary in order
that we can absorb for ourselves this extraordinary spiritual event.</b></span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2EkKVkP6nleYuK1EyNcm8wBb9oxiMNwZcWIfkcQMZjAtzfDvQDQ0mJZH2GRfRiDxoyRIpSlxTMH452RwJVW8j8z0uRV_2vvBm2bxy26GfKo3b9oLcqRVmPIiU10p2Qlty9zcZw2LuXYs/s1600/P1090800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2EkKVkP6nleYuK1EyNcm8wBb9oxiMNwZcWIfkcQMZjAtzfDvQDQ0mJZH2GRfRiDxoyRIpSlxTMH452RwJVW8j8z0uRV_2vvBm2bxy26GfKo3b9oLcqRVmPIiU10p2Qlty9zcZw2LuXYs/s320/P1090800.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the church inside the cave we are making our way to</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I wrote in my diary for the day:</div>
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<b>Overwhelming, spiritually, physically and mentally.</b></div>
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Frightening - the crush of people - tiny children in among
it all - the policeman who looked after our shoes for us - the guns, batons and
high security around the church entrance. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhupAkaxE7cV51BRvq4TcrnEp4XmGkpg4HWT-sZxprdW4YKOaXw97BHZr9DdnVBPhBR8De5L8KtaHuXpJQd__rl7DtzjkT0dSKvKfLr2pHjFYrPCIZ4ke7f7MOZkL8MBIxLRgSDRamzvI/s1600/P1090805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhupAkaxE7cV51BRvq4TcrnEp4XmGkpg4HWT-sZxprdW4YKOaXw97BHZr9DdnVBPhBR8De5L8KtaHuXpJQd__rl7DtzjkT0dSKvKfLr2pHjFYrPCIZ4ke7f7MOZkL8MBIxLRgSDRamzvI/s320/P1090805.JPG" width="204" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the crush on the path down to the <br />
church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Ululating, the long high pitched and wavering sound, almost
trilling, that comes out of the mouths of the priests and people. </b>We heard it
here in the church, from the priests, as they swayed in unison in a curious spiritual
dance, and we would wake up later in the trip in the very early hours of the
morning to hear the same sound as people made their way in the early dawn to a
local church above our hotel in <st1:city w:st="on">Gondar</st1:city>.
Somehow or other the tongue and uvula together can create this sound. I wonder
how long it takes to learn the technique? It is very much a feature of worship
in the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtK2evgRUA7wNjl42UspJDyIbQyenKSSQuGbclAirCBk1cKFQz2k5nC6xCW8DsN1j_2dLALJ7nd6kaV69KyPgWQagnpXNee3aTk7xwTPfn2vLUdRg1pKpY0gPQK5x9MhUFYAlHV7WhKcg/s1600/P1090802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtK2evgRUA7wNjl42UspJDyIbQyenKSSQuGbclAirCBk1cKFQz2k5nC6xCW8DsN1j_2dLALJ7nd6kaV69KyPgWQagnpXNee3aTk7xwTPfn2vLUdRg1pKpY0gPQK5x9MhUFYAlHV7WhKcg/s320/P1090802.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">resting on way to church - in background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then there was the rhythmic music of the drums and the sistrum,
shaken vigorously by the cantors as they danced, and the tall prayer sticks often
used to keep that rhythm. </div>
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<br /></div>
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In fact all the emotions felt thoroughly assaulted by the
end of our experience….</div>
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So much so that many of us felt very much in need of a
strong coffee and a quiet place! </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-TvEL5B0otD9ku7bITnwugyCsMp46B-eqlC-nzAADBfaNxc1omBeVM1sej6_gwehGyORBJBvuXzAztW3Rz0cE-v4cUvnXM5Y-DjZxnxx86Wou5_SKf6L45Iz166wF-CZ79XpJWcf4gw/s1600/P1090804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-TvEL5B0otD9ku7bITnwugyCsMp46B-eqlC-nzAADBfaNxc1omBeVM1sej6_gwehGyORBJBvuXzAztW3Rz0cE-v4cUvnXM5Y-DjZxnxx86Wou5_SKf6L45Iz166wF-CZ79XpJWcf4gw/s320/P1090804.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pilgrims climb back from church in right<br />
background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But I'm getting ahead of myself. As we drive from our hotel
to the little cave church of Na'akuto La'ab about 6km south of Lalibela towards
the airport, we are at once struck by the columns of people, nearly all dressed
in their white gabbi or shama, the white cloths worn toga like by men and women
respectively (Netela are similar but have brightly embroidered borders). All
these men, women and children are streaming along the road as far as the eye
can see, coming from every direction, all making their way towards the church,
giving the appearance of a long white slow moving snake hugging the curves of
the road into the distance. It is a 90 minute walk for them from Lalibela along
the tarmac road. Many take short cuts across the countryside along what appear
to be well worn pathways. Along the way we stop to buy candles from one of the
many vendors plying their wares. We buy ours from a boy who is visually
impaired, chosen by our guide, and it is good to support him in this small way.
</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPQRuocs5Y86XpsmNHG9cVNGcstlnpkyzA-eXM-Gw0Ho9lctsVBq60Qc_gUGZ3-Dok7ZdIihyphenhyphenkWO9itjyrAwV4oKtuZz787O1vELRMfNDba6agkmFEIwjL4LknDYTbPTVBPcD475D_Zk8/s1600/P1090810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPQRuocs5Y86XpsmNHG9cVNGcstlnpkyzA-eXM-Gw0Ho9lctsVBq60Qc_gUGZ3-Dok7ZdIihyphenhyphenkWO9itjyrAwV4oKtuZz787O1vELRMfNDba6agkmFEIwjL4LknDYTbPTVBPcD475D_Zk8/s320/P1090810.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">taking time out by the side of the path</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The little church we are making our way towards was built by
Na'akuto La'ab, the nephew of King Lalibela and his successor, although as with
many sites in <st1:place w:st="on">Ethiopia</st1:place>
there seem to be several conflicting traditions around his reign and the
foundation of the church which bears his name.
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsjh3nGiBFhvmfJby2uA5kKRnS0G_e85QHtYKKZ8_d6jgY3Is25QBdzqqPDl7Dib5rJVB-Ln9drXh2-Dnx-ceYwfK8Fftb5uyVisouBTLbi0qpgxX91RTsSZO6vzMljGw8Tzqo4k-lz8/s1600/P1090811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsjh3nGiBFhvmfJby2uA5kKRnS0G_e85QHtYKKZ8_d6jgY3Is25QBdzqqPDl7Dib5rJVB-Ln9drXh2-Dnx-ceYwfK8Fftb5uyVisouBTLbi0qpgxX91RTsSZO6vzMljGw8Tzqo4k-lz8/s320/P1090811.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside the cave, outside the church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The coach turns off the main road and we bump along for a
short while on a rough track before disembarking to walk the rest of the way to
the church. As we make our way down the rough track along the cliff edge we are
jostled from all directions, and this is the only time on the whole trip when
we are warned to keep valuables close to us. People all around us are going in
our direction, but there are just as many coming back up the path, and there is
no lane discipline! The services here carry on for a long time and people come
and go as they please, it seems. Some simply go to receive a blessing. We are
given dust - it may be charcoal - to mark a cross on our foreheads, reminiscent
of our own Ash Wednesday service - "dust thou art and to dust thou shalt
return" - this <a href="https://www.catholicculture.org/culture/liturgicalyear/activities/view.cfm?id=1020" target="_blank">tradition</a> originated in Old Testament times and ashes then
as now symbolise mourning, mortality and penance. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilTg-CcVfMhF03p7IybZYjvKgsjCzFKRBDrrhvNUjrdvHAf4yOL5NaA2eHDr8NSkKyCgzrCLDWxyXL5DuBP3r_CJzILBG1G8klG1AlciJ0L6fR79t_xdXNnEzIR4U1DLK8EX4cNM7HjfI/s1600/P1090814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilTg-CcVfMhF03p7IybZYjvKgsjCzFKRBDrrhvNUjrdvHAf4yOL5NaA2eHDr8NSkKyCgzrCLDWxyXL5DuBP3r_CJzILBG1G8klG1AlciJ0L6fR79t_xdXNnEzIR4U1DLK8EX4cNM7HjfI/s320/P1090814.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">note man in orange - priest - holding <br />
prayer staff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Somehow we all arrive through the crowds at the mouth of the
cave and manage to fight our way inside! It's a struggle and somewhat
frightening but we stay inside long enough to experience the ululating, the
dance and the music. But very soon we are glad to force our way back out side
away from the crush which was actually alarming for some of us who are not so
tall. As I left, carefully sidestepping around a lady sitting on the floor,
totally hidden from most of us in the heaving mass of the crowd, I was astonished
to see she had a very small child hugging close in to the folds of her garment.
I feel very sure that there must be some injuries in such a crush but we
survived intact!</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi3TVvTjPzUyyP52qt0AUIC6vzwj35FW6eevHdR5zPQnLxb7FzfxDE3BVsTU52CeLYWCKcA1m0mFyiZs1X26RDXW2rq7VA6o_-SotoJaTgsHYwfULzUCSwlEy5f_0qfwrQcbWcPY3PJEw/s1600/P1090817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi3TVvTjPzUyyP52qt0AUIC6vzwj35FW6eevHdR5zPQnLxb7FzfxDE3BVsTU52CeLYWCKcA1m0mFyiZs1X26RDXW2rq7VA6o_-SotoJaTgsHYwfULzUCSwlEy5f_0qfwrQcbWcPY3PJEw/s320/P1090817.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">villagers gather at top of path to church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And we marvelled at the shoes strewn everywhere along the path to be found again after coming out of the church. We have to assume that as long as the men, women and children all find a pair that fit and perhaps are the right colour they are broadly happy. The shoes are mostly plastic flip flops or plastic sandals, mostly brightly coloured. There is no way they could hope to find the exact pair they started the day off with!!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kMZsnSg0JyNAJuT4csFrOPWJSX21YLFIHGVwobOq6anZdzqaVp22OoonRds0-s4EqDn2yDwsZLr_0o1eVPs1FAqNXWgoFMjiO1KNW8xeLIEJmAgICNXWGxeLPkwRci8aFLA0n-nVsFg/s1600/P1090822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kMZsnSg0JyNAJuT4csFrOPWJSX21YLFIHGVwobOq6anZdzqaVp22OoonRds0-s4EqDn2yDwsZLr_0o1eVPs1FAqNXWgoFMjiO1KNW8xeLIEJmAgICNXWGxeLPkwRci8aFLA0n-nVsFg/s400/P1090822.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A few links to further information:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/africaandindianocean/ethiopia/11512559/Ethiopia-holy-days-and-highland-rock-churches.html">http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/africaandindianocean/ethiopia/11512559/Ethiopia-holy-days-and-highland-rock-churches.html</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.lalibela-eco-trekking.com/festival-event/index.html">http://www.lalibela-eco-trekking.com/festival-event/index.html</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://onegreenstone.com/ethiopian-festivals/">http://onegreenstone.com/ethiopian-festivals/</a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5061014209478621266.post-87069663363965057062016-01-02T07:30:00.000+00:002016-01-02T07:30:01.456+00:00Lalibela rock hewn churches - the Southern cluster<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIo957Tjm4-TmpjZZq1KsxrHjNFFFDjrPEI_4DaCUS0v6Yc7Q3dDFY3Yv36sTbYOsGIQ8m0JSnptjFnZcF2pEvaWyQLs_Q_KcC0xl9JMBiA2af1EMnDdqcCHiQyne2h8kar7vZjLcCewk/s1600/P1090698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIo957Tjm4-TmpjZZq1KsxrHjNFFFDjrPEI_4DaCUS0v6Yc7Q3dDFY3Yv36sTbYOsGIQ8m0JSnptjFnZcF2pEvaWyQLs_Q_KcC0xl9JMBiA2af1EMnDdqcCHiQyne2h8kar7vZjLcCewk/s320/P1090698.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">view from Ben Abeba restaurant </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We are on our way back from <b>Yemrehane Christos </b>monastery,
2700 metres up in beautiful isolation north east of <b>Lalibela</b>. We came by coach
and climbed the 195 steps up through lovely Juniper forest to the monastery.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">It
is apparently possible to visit by mule from <b>Lalibela</b>, a 10-12 hour round trip</span>
if you feel inclined, or would be unable to manage the steps.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQAFiNW9w14dR1IpcoQVTAhXSM-7AOWDQ9T8N_dEMwSJShTbJhprX2lzsqr5hBbCuwsttfXvAKKJrxEoKQAzsc5uS7nVVIweE0oJQywTZf50oaTGjaIxwMwOR1vSQVo0WK13_1ldybGho/s1600/P1090700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQAFiNW9w14dR1IpcoQVTAhXSM-7AOWDQ9T8N_dEMwSJShTbJhprX2lzsqr5hBbCuwsttfXvAKKJrxEoKQAzsc5uS7nVVIweE0oJQywTZf50oaTGjaIxwMwOR1vSQVo0WK13_1ldybGho/s320/P1090700.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">traditional coffee making at Ben Abeba</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This afternoon we will be visiting the five churches in the second,
South Eastern cluster, of <b>Lalibela</b> rock hewn churches. But first we have lunch
at the extraordinary <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g480193-d2353470-Reviews-Ben_Abeba-Lalibela_Amhara_Region.html" target="_blank">Ben Abeba</a> restaurant high up atop a hill on the outskirts
of <b>Lalibela</b> - a wonderful experience - excellent food, veggie friendly and
hosted by the Scottish lady who set this up a few years ago with an Ethiopian
business partner. It looks like a witch's hat as we approach, with a multi
layered decking construction, surrounded by very pretty gardens with lots of
different sitting out areas, and amazing views all around. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The restaurant put on a fabulous buffet spread for our group at lunchtime. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I usually confine my restaurant reviews to Trip Adviser but
this one is so special I think it deserves a mention here. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And so on to the churches. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwkSpBXileoKfhQTPVgfub2pSUw_2FiVZlX5forMCB8hn4qROBF60olhyjAdREG6hz_qT6jAJLIHupAdFyYwdOizaswRGj2Yc9TLzqAOK000Xg-P4TnC00VECCziUwjrzNYUY9ZbKJxE/s1600/P1090718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwkSpBXileoKfhQTPVgfub2pSUw_2FiVZlX5forMCB8hn4qROBF60olhyjAdREG6hz_qT6jAJLIHupAdFyYwdOizaswRGj2Yc9TLzqAOK000Xg-P4TnC00VECCziUwjrzNYUY9ZbKJxE/s320/P1090718.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet Giyorgis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoEbzzqJtcDVqXHubGkYCZetTvWeT79lalS-ODcsYkJEQtn0SF5RoK3m3IN_v3o2VIVEkKFlnfXEn_COH1QVc_EzFDP9HRr9iWZpACyKDpb8tLAS58rXDx5vXwVosd_wQDq0-0KZRNqSQ/s1600/P1090709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoEbzzqJtcDVqXHubGkYCZetTvWeT79lalS-ODcsYkJEQtn0SF5RoK3m3IN_v3o2VIVEkKFlnfXEn_COH1QVc_EzFDP9HRr9iWZpACyKDpb8tLAS58rXDx5vXwVosd_wQDq0-0KZRNqSQ/s320/P1090709.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet Giyorgis in its trench</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpN20MebwKbiGC_llfcUV_H6wRPZTa7Txz-Ube6abb0lvP2ZwhNarSzHc2Eh9nLrjyfRVo2JK898BRELpBYfYPUxFHO65e2hyE11rbqpIV-Q7mFSNXw-VOqkBIrSsdrPp4uEOgo_TUm_A/s1600/P1090724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpN20MebwKbiGC_llfcUV_H6wRPZTa7Txz-Ube6abb0lvP2ZwhNarSzHc2Eh9nLrjyfRVo2JK898BRELpBYfYPUxFHO65e2hyE11rbqpIV-Q7mFSNXw-VOqkBIrSsdrPp4uEOgo_TUm_A/s320/P1090724.JPG" width="255" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with the priest inside Bet Giyorgis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We start with the totally iconic monolithic <b>Bet Giyorgis</b> -
the church seen on all the publicity and tourist brochures for the area. It is
for this reason, I guess, that it has escaped being covered by one of the
rather hideous protective roof shelters which so obscure the views and photo
opportunities of the other churches - but which are necessary to protect these
extraordinary buildings from further decay. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This church has been excavated out
of the rock to a depth of 15 metres or so, in the shape of a cross, sitting in
its own sunken courtyard with vertical walls. Dramatic from the outside, less
so inside, but it has a great atmosphere if you are able to experience it
between tour groups.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0GhRswCeGrz8xFtvQzn9O0PEqA5iTtHBXle9EQzT8af5Mc7qcm2WElUgQBg2eZSWbP7bjY-tnQqCdXxUSfTrGWvMWRpJrcmlRGxath1Lj5UYzAEblTImdDU7yHHvnjiOEug2ofWGf9ms/s1600/P1090746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0GhRswCeGrz8xFtvQzn9O0PEqA5iTtHBXle9EQzT8af5Mc7qcm2WElUgQBg2eZSWbP7bjY-tnQqCdXxUSfTrGWvMWRpJrcmlRGxath1Lj5UYzAEblTImdDU7yHHvnjiOEug2ofWGf9ms/s320/P1090746.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside Bet Mercurios</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
From here we make our way to <b>Bet Gebriel-Rafael</b>, more like a
fortress than a church, which we approach over a wooden walkway. Indeed, with
<b>Bet Mercurios</b>, which we visit next, this may well have been first a fortified
palace, perhaps carved originally as the palace for King Lalibela. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRJlnlZeOAGsUyIkZlmfjyz2S_XxLWzD9Q8CDOVI6qRJFge0VW0DR79MZI4xnzL__hRD71lbXQxPxb1m0-6xdSxsV34RdqYjGMqXCXUwJVZDk3nqbky4tLCX2x6pOX4cLZv05Eq0WAxG4/s1600/P1090757.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRJlnlZeOAGsUyIkZlmfjyz2S_XxLWzD9Q8CDOVI6qRJFge0VW0DR79MZI4xnzL__hRD71lbXQxPxb1m0-6xdSxsV34RdqYjGMqXCXUwJVZDk3nqbky4tLCX2x6pOX4cLZv05Eq0WAxG4/s320/P1090757.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet Emanuel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The brave among us stoop to go through a pitch black tunnel
from <b>Bet Gebriel-Rafael </b>to <b>Bet Mercurios </b>but there is an alternative route! However
I would recommend braving the tunnel to gain the full atmosphere of the visit - the guides are well equipped with torches!<b>Bet
Mercurios</b> has some wonderful fifteenth century wall paintings, as well as some
iron shackles which indicate its possible early role as a prison. <b>Saint
Mercurios</b> was a third century Coptic saint, tortured and beheaded for his
Christian faith.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT-0k5W3q9MeY_4e7dIpP41xWyFS-cwKN-IXPNNvoFJ8oZedV1MTVL-Fh3WVOPwMMKC8Z21GglykF1BGbU8EWT3MAMRwhrmLFbONPLKgzpoPcshRmUeDS-FI4JFZy6kzvpaP7XSZa_5Ug/s1600/P1090759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT-0k5W3q9MeY_4e7dIpP41xWyFS-cwKN-IXPNNvoFJ8oZedV1MTVL-Fh3WVOPwMMKC8Z21GglykF1BGbU8EWT3MAMRwhrmLFbONPLKgzpoPcshRmUeDS-FI4JFZy6kzvpaP7XSZa_5Ug/s320/P1090759.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">some of those steep and rocky steps</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some very steep steps take us down to the <b>Bet Emanuel</b>, the
most elegant church of them all in <b>Lalibela</b>. Its appearance reminds us of the
<b>Yemrehane Christos monastery</b> style of layered wood and stone. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZACBmoVKKRRVgIBaUeBvfA4pAxTTS4i6SK-LHulozhN3Y0VKJGzQrtELA90LBpBBMESsOwD-KLyPRYqPznYtZJzBhb22AnYBYB-l28AD0vH_yQkp9HdNu0tePVqmjOHsasFoox09NdR8/s1600/P1090762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZACBmoVKKRRVgIBaUeBvfA4pAxTTS4i6SK-LHulozhN3Y0VKJGzQrtELA90LBpBBMESsOwD-KLyPRYqPznYtZJzBhb22AnYBYB-l28AD0vH_yQkp9HdNu0tePVqmjOHsasFoox09NdR8/s320/P1090762.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet Abba Libanos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Finally we make our way to <b>Bet Abba Libanos</b>, built, legend
tells us, by King Lalibela's wife in one night, with the assistance of angels.
Sadly we are approaching closing time and our visit is rushed. The priest wants
to go home and soon we are also making our way back to our hotel, for a prayer
meeting and supper at the <b>Lalibela Cultural Centre</b>. </div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqq9KInxjjp22GlOxANrYYjWj28aSbqcg6b34scMQDjsBrg33ZOm4ypd5IyDVen-9JscwA6vdlbfkyvaIu9_SPTDSO5TFO2JlJdATck69Q3yEgMSsCeAOwgp4dGBqsq3TWGpBOcj50890/s1600/P1090774.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqq9KInxjjp22GlOxANrYYjWj28aSbqcg6b34scMQDjsBrg33ZOm4ypd5IyDVen-9JscwA6vdlbfkyvaIu9_SPTDSO5TFO2JlJdATck69Q3yEgMSsCeAOwgp4dGBqsq3TWGpBOcj50890/s320/P1090774.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">our shoes are well looked after and<br />ready for us with willing hand as well</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbA-_hNHz-xgqvaisW4k7HM7FKhIM7_7pPL4QLev4IS2fU4_nz0NSkpRMRheZAtGG2v2WY946aFvJZ5W8bk5Z2gLpMwl1-plZ07NVm1GyM3fisKcznxmeYxAV1xINATsRH3kARSDb_Vg/s1600/P1090795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbA-_hNHz-xgqvaisW4k7HM7FKhIM7_7pPL4QLev4IS2fU4_nz0NSkpRMRheZAtGG2v2WY946aFvJZ5W8bk5Z2gLpMwl1-plZ07NVm1GyM3fisKcznxmeYxAV1xINATsRH3kARSDb_Vg/s320/P1090795.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pilgrims walk for miles, from all directions, to Na'akuto<br />La'ab for the feast day service</td></tr>
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The next day is a special feast day at <b>Na'akuto La'ab</b> and we
will see this at first hand - this will be an extraordinary experience and one
certainly not to be missed - we will then go on to explore the mountain top <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">church</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on"><b>Asheton Mariam</b></st1:placename></st1:place> at 3200 metres - even higher than we have been today - and join
in the liturgy there. That also is a moving and spiritual experience for some of us.</div>
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Eleanor Stonehamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06388151576836128132noreply@blogger.com1