A Bus called Hope: Introduction to Jerusalem contd.

Church of the Agony

We soon have to move on from the Dominus Flevit, regretting that there is no time to see inside. That is such a great shame. This happens a few times during our pilgrimage, where in the interests of seeing as much as possible we have no time to linger. At least it gives us all a very good reason and motivation to return to this most Holy of Lands. And we can appreciate the splendid view across the Kidron Valley from the terrace below the church. Some say the view is even better from inside framed by the altar window.

Church of the Agony

We now make our way to the Church of All Nations, or the Church of the Agony, in the Garden of Gethsemane. Someone says that the former name refers to the fact that many different nations contributed to its building costs – this is in fact so – donations came from many different countries for the building of the chapel between 1919 and 1934. But the name is also a reference to the fact that it is here where all the nations of the world shall be judged, according to the prophecy in the Book of Joel ch. 3 v. 2. Within the church is a bare rock upon which, according to tradition, Jesus prayed before he was arrested on the night of what we now call Maundy Thursday. The church was designed by the Italian architect Antonio Barluzzi, who also designed the little Dominus Flevit church which we have just seen, and I think we shall see more of his work later into the pilgrimage. I am sorry to say I am first of all struck by the scaffolding and the noise of the repairs going on within, which somewhat spoil the experience for me. The extremely busy main road doesn’t help. In this general chaos I also regret that I miss the “stone of agony” itself. I’m not sure how I manage to do that! I’m afraid that I really do not like loud noise of any sort and I have to escape fairly quickly to the peace of the small garden just outside the church.

Here there are eight eight extremely old olive trees. There is some dispute as to their ages, although since these trees have the capacity to regenerate from very small stumps it is quite possible that some part at least of them may have been around in Jesus’ time. I like to think so. Carbon dating by the University of California suggests that some wood may be 2300 years old. The girth of the largest tree is more than 18 feet!

In the Garden of Gethsemane

We are all beginning to wilt and flag a little, but there is one more church to see before lunch, and this is probably for me the favorite of the morning, because I really love sculptures. Outside the Church of St Peter in Gallicantu (cock crow in Latin) our next destination, there is a beautiful sculpture commemorating this site where St Peter is said to have denied Jesus after his master’s arrest in the garden of Gethsemane. The sculpture shows Peter by the fire where he is keeping warm, and nearby is a flight of ancient stone steps which Jesus would surely have trod in his time.

Peter denying he knows Jesus

There are brief moments like this where I can find a place for quiet reflection and stand in awe and wonder – to think we are standing where so much of the gospel story was played out all those many years ago. Of course many of the commemorative sites are modern, but we can still feel the sense of sacredness in the atmospheric surroundings and the ground upon which we walk, in spite of the crowds which sometimes get in the way. And who are we to talk with 128 of us!!

Church of St Peter on its steep hillside

Our Holy Land Pilgrimage: an Introduction to Jerusalem

Today, the first full day of our pilgrimage, is described as “an introduction to Jerusalem.” And what an introduction it is! To some it seems like a whistle stop tour. But there really is so much to see and a balance has to be struck somehow between the number of days in hotels which of course ramps up the costs considerably, and making sure that we visit the most important sights on our pilgrimage. One thing is certain; every morning we have to make an early start, partly I think to avoid so far as possible the crowds who flock to this hugely popular pilgrimage city in their bus loads.

across the Kidron Valley

First we drive to the Mount of Olives, or Mount Olivet, from where we have a panoramic view of the walled city across the Kidron Valley. From our vantage point looking across the Jewish Cemetery we can see the Dome of the Rock, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Golden Gate, in the wall of the old city, sealed, it is said, until the Day of Judgement when the righteous will be accepted into the Holy City.  All the Jewish tombs in the cemetery are covered to some extent by stones. This all looks very untidy, but we are told that the stones are put there as marks of respect. I do wonder. The tombs definitely do suffer from vandalism which is very sad indeed.

This is Jerusalem’s most important and most ancient cemetery, with around 70,000 or 150,000 tombs (depending on which source of information you use!) dating from some 3000 years ago to more recent times. Jews like to be buried here as in Jewish tradition the resurrection of the dead will start here when the Messiah comes. Here also is the place where Jesus ascended into heaven according to tradition. 

The man with the donkey is annoyed I think that I did not give him any money, but others from our party did, so I thought another photo was not too much to ask of him! He didn’t agree!

Our first church to visit is the Paternoster Church, so called because by tradition this is where Jesus taught his disciples the Lord’s Prayer. The environs are already bustling with other coach parties and it is almost impossible to find any quiet space where we can say the Lord’s Prayer as a group.

The prayer is inscribed on tablets on the walls of the cloisters and the church in over 60 different languages and of course it is fun to find the one in your own language!

I should mention here, in case anyone is wondering how our leaders keep tabs on us all, especially in such crowded places, that we each have a very nifty bit of technology – an ear piece through which we can hear our guide talking to us over a reasonable range, at a wavelength unique to each group. Wonderful! It means we can stroll around while listening to his talk and be called to regroup at any time when we are due to move on.

And move on we do; to Dominus Flevit, the Lord Wept, the church which commemorates the occasion when Jesus wept and foretold the destruction of the city below him…

Dominus Flevit

The Dominus Flevit is tear-drop shaped and has a “tear cup” at each of its four corners. This place speaks powerfully to me of the vulnerability of Jesus, the Wounded Healer. 

At the same time I am disturbed by the litter, the peddlers or hawkers, and the crowds, all of which we must somehow get used to as the week progresses...

This is only just the first morning of our pilgrimage so for some the transition has not yet been made from tourist to pilgrim - a process that will be different for each and every one of us. Who knows at this stage which experiences will move us most, which memories will be most important to each of us ...