Iran: A Persian Odyssey - Persepolis and Naqsh-e Rostam

three  of the four tombs at Naqsh-e Rostam

detail from panel at Naqsh-e Rostam

From Pasargadae we make our way to the Naqsh-e Rostam tombs near Persepolis - four dramatic Achaemenid Empire (550-330BCE) tombs carved high into the rock face above us (the name was given by locals - Naqsh means picture and Rostam was a legendary Persian warrior). The tombs are probably those of Darius II (died 405 BCE), Artaxerxes I (died 424 BCE), Darius the Great (died 484 BCE) and lastly, on the far right, Xerxes I (d. 465 BCE) or Xerxes II (d. 423 BCE). Below the tombs are 7 beautifully carved stone panels from the Sassanid period - (224 - 658 CE). These all need time - panels and tombs alike - to really study and interpret their full magnitude. It is altogether an incredible place, and one not to be missed on any tour. A pair of binoculars was a definite asset here to more fully appreciate the detail high above us.

12.6m high Zoroaster's shrine at Naqsh-e Rostam
its function a mystery

After an excellent buffet lunch at the Laneh-e Tavoos garden restaurant nearby, we are soon off to Persepolis, probably the most important ancient site in Iran for all those interested in the history of the Persian Empire. Founded by Darius the Great around 515 BCE, the Achaemenid Kings received their subjects and generally ran their empire from here. Then Alexander the Great came and burnt it all to the ground. The ruins are still exceptional.     

Of course by the time we arrived after all that we had already seen today it was early afternoon - our visit lasted from 2.30 until 5.30 - some say early morning is best for the light, but we benefited from less crowding and a lovely red colour to the ruins as the sun went down.

detail at Persepolis

We were only allowed to take the tiniest bags into the site, such as money and camera, and were advised to leave everything else in the coach, or bags must otherwise be left with security at the entrance.

part of the famous eastern Apadana staircase at Persepolis
this side  shows envoys from 23 subject nations bringing gifts

There is a good souvenir shop but I had left my money on the bus! And purchases have to be made on leaving the site, not before. So the shop actually missed out on our Rials which we are all itching to spend!


And the toilets at the entrance were pretty grim - even the local ladies and children thought so.

While most of the group went straight to the café on the site at the end of the trip, six of us climbed up to view at close hand one of the royal tombs high above the ruins. Not only was this interesting, but a fabulous panoramic view of the site was our reward. There are four royal tombs up here, two of which we can easily access, those of Artaxerxes II (d. 358 BCE) and Artaxerxes III (d. 338 BCE).  

panorama of Persepolis from royal tombs above

The drinks at the café nestling below us were very expensive when we clambered down to it, although it was a very pleasant place to sit and relax at the end of a hot day. The toilets at this end of the site were even grimmer than those in the car park at the entrance! But don't let that put any one off visiting such an incredible site.

As we leave many of the Iranian families were parking up at the side of the road and disappearing into the adjoining woods to picnic, lighting fires, spreading blankets out and no doubt cooking kebabs - a firm picnic favourite here. As I have said before, this is an Iranian passion. They will picnic just about anywhere, and in many places there are special shaded picnic shelters for the purpose. And they take all their litter away with them, leaving the place as clean as they found it.

an eagle griffin or Homa - auspicious bird - adopted
as symbol of Iranian National airline. 

It has been a very long day, but what a rewarding one! Tomorrow we are off on the long drive to Yazd for the famous Zoroastrian Towers of Silence, but first we will visit the Tomb of the Poet Saadi in its beautiful gardens and will be treated to some soulful singing from our guide...

For much further on information on Persepolis see:

http://www.iranchamber.com/history/persepolis/persepolis1.php

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/114
http://www.ancient.eu/persepolis/

heading home from Persepolis at day's end

Travelling through Greece - in the Steps of St Paul - back in Kavala

Fire breaks zig-zag crazily down through the forests - fire must be a real hazard here in such searing temperatures and tinder dry vegetation. It is a big asparagus growing area - we see the fields on our way back to Kavala - bright orange pots are for sale at the roadside - all one price - 5 Euro. Allotments look very much like mine at home - complete with scarecrows. We pass remnants of the original Via Egnatia - and plenty of beehives - plus many little road side shrines - commemorating victims of road accidents. We visited Philippi this morning and have the rest of the day free in Kavala to have lunch and explore further.We see plenty of 1920s refugee accommodation lining the streets coming down into old city - contrasting sharply with the stunning views of the port laid out below us.

beehives

 Barley is being grown in quantity for the local Fix beer - which is very good - and is now building up its own export business. Thinking of beer, it is lunch time. There are plenty of water front tavernas plying their trade. The appetizers are all huge and it is obviously expected that a variety of appetizers are ordered and shared between a group - that is clearly the way to do it - like Georgia and Jerusalem and Turkey on previous pilgrimages. The double headed eagle by the port is symbol of the Byzantine empire.

  

locals enjoying the Kavala beach

Kavala beach

After lunch I take myself off to explore the coast to the west of the hotel - I shared my breakfast table this morning with a lady who is staying in the hotel while she visits a friend in the town and I mistook her on the first morning for a member of our group. She has told me that there is a swimming beach further round from the port, where the locals play and swim and I'm off to find it. It is quite a walk, given the afternoon heat. I go through the incredible aftermath of the Saturday street market - rubbish galore, but all being meticulously swept up by two men with nothing more than two small besom type brooms. Tomorrow there will be no trace left and all will be clean and tidy again. But as I leave the old town and port and approach the beach side promenade there is a dramatic change. The prom is but a shadow of its former glory - gardens neglected and everything including three changing cubicles on the beach itself so run down, with graffiti just about everywhere. The sand is very gritty but the sea is certainly not cold and local families are out in force enjoying themselves all along the beach. Paddling and swimming in the sea and enjoying the sand is free entertainment where financial worries can be put aside for a while.

interesting art/graffiti

Walking back to the hotel through the town itself it is suddenly eerily deserted. Most of the shops seem to be shuttered for the siesta and there appears to be a storm brewing. The atmosphere has become very heavy and thick black clouds are visible in the distance. Near the back entrance to the hotel I come upon a plinth commemorating Alexander the Great. An elderly Greek man comes up to me and starts gesticulating wildly. Have I done something wrong? But he seems friendly and after many smiles and waving of arms I understand that he is simply telling me what a very great man Alexander the Great was.

Alexander III of Macedon, commonly known as Alexander the Great, was a King of the Ancient Greek kingdom of Macedon and a member of the Argead dynasty. July 356 BC to 323 BC, His father was Philip II of Macedon, his mother Olympias. By the age of thirty he had created one of the largest empires of the ancient world, a new Hellenistic civilization and features prominently in the history and myth of Greek and non Greek cultures. Along with his teacher Aristotle he is often thought of as one of the most influential people of all time.

Enticing cake shop Kavala

On the side of the statue as I walk around it I see a plaque recording the oath which Alexander the Great gave at Opis in 324 BC, just one year before he died, at a banquet before 9,000 Greek and Asian officers. Below is not perhaps quite the exact translation recorded in Kavala - but it's close. Please read it - oh if only!

Alexander the Great Plinth Kavala

“It is my wish, now that wars are coming to an end, that you should all be happy in peace. From now on, let all mortals live as one people, in fellowship, for the good of all. See the whole world as your homeland, with laws common to all, where the best will govern regardless of their race. Unlike the narrow -minded, I make no distinction between Greeks and barbarians. The origin of citizens, or the race into which they were born, is of no concern to me. I have only one criterion by which to distinguish their virtue. For me, any good foreigner is a Greek and any bad Greek is worse than a barbarian. If disputes ever occur among you, you will not resort to weapons but will solve them in peace. If need be, I shall arbitrate between you. See God not as an autocratic despot, but as the common father of all and thus your conduct will be like the lives of brothers within the same family. I on my part, see you all as equal, whether you are white or dark-skinned. And I should like you not simply to be subjects of my commonwealth, but members of it, partners of it. To the best of my ability, I shall strive to do what I have promised. Keep as a symbol of love this oath which we have taken tonight with our libations”.

the double headed eagle at Kavala Port

The threat of storm has come to nothing. By 6 pm the harbour is bustling once again with life and activity in the tavernas, the economy helped no doubt by the very large ship in port for the night - a Hellenic Seaways liner or ferry. Many passengers offload here, with their assortment of baggage, some probably arriving home after trips to who knows where, others on the tourist trail. The roads have suddenly become very busy indeed, and where casual jay walking was the order of the day earlier on, now I have to use the lights to cross safely. I see an elderly man with a very old push chair of the simple folding type I used for my sons all those many years ago. But there is no child in this buggy. It is full of garlic bulbs, held together in ropes reminiscent of the way I have seen the French carry them on their bicycle handle bars. Here the Greek is pushing his wares from restaurant to restaurant hoping for sales before the busy evening restaurant trade.

Tomorrow we say goodbye to Kavala and continue to Thessaloniki...in the Steps of St Paul...